First time GVR4 owner 965/2000 (3xdsm owner) :)

BarnesMobile- That would make alot more sense on why it was dry then lol.

Rivet-As far as the motor goes it is a evo3 motor which I belive have no emission on that side...however mostly everything thing up front is connected aside from a few random wire/plugs (I think AC stuff). However the "filter" AKA check valve that I temporarily removed did have a arrow on it to indicate flow...it pointed from the line to the tank (which then runs into the top of the tank).

The car didnt seem to idle any different with the check valve, filter, or nothing in line with it...not sure if that means anything or not.

Hopefully tomorrow (or saturday) I will put the check valve back in place and then swap out fuel pumps.....I must admit I am surprised with how loud that 190 is...I expected it to be a little quieter then the 255 but the vibrations/harmonics it produces are audible and tangible (at the tank). Anyhow I will report back with any update, thanks everyone for the input if you have any more ideas i'd love to hear them /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

*Small update*

So I reinstalled that check valve which seems to be working and then pulled out the fuel pump...........it appears I was right about a clog however I didnt assume it was my brand new fuel filter (off the pump).....it basically looked like I had dipped the filter in a bucket of mud. This also seems to make a little more sense considering when I first installed this pump it was very quiet then after the first test drive it got loud like my 255.....I suppose when I went for a drive the junk in the tank sloshed around and clogged the filter which caused my lean condition and hopefully the loudness to the fuel pump (due to strain). So I am off to get another fuel filter and I am trying to decided the easiest way to drain and clean the fuel tank.......I am open to ideas.....last time (when I first got the car) I used a transfer pump to get mostly all of the old gas out...apparently that didnt get all of the junk out though.


(heres the fuel filter about 5 miles after new)

 

*Fuel problem solved

I was finally able to get into boost and have the car run rich :-D.........I had to pull the drain plug out of the gas tank then hand scoop out all of the crap/crud (about 4 or 5 handfulls worth of crap) and then paper towel the rest clean....it was pretty nasty. I am tempted to start looking for a new gas tank or perhaps modifying one of my racing fuel cells to go into the car. Regardless with a semi clean tank and new fuel filter the fuel pump was relatively quite and I was able to get into boost with my AFR's in the 10's instead of 17's :-D.....the car still desperately needs a tune and now that I have a little power really needs the brake issue resolved but I am one step closer to having her road worthy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif..

 

I just thought i'd provide a small visual update on what a dirty fuel tank can do for you........I pulled my fuel filter off the pump again this morning to clean it (dirty but alot better then before) and went for a drive...at first I was able to get to about 12 psi before leaning out...after a mile or two that dropped to about 4.5 psi before I started to lean out.....i'd bet money that my fuel filter is dirty again (its amazing how sensitive they are)....anyhow I had my plxdm200 do a scatter plot of boost vs afr and thought i'd upload it here (I put in the two red lines for easy referencing).

 

What a bad ass guage. I'd probably just source a tank rather than keep going through that sh*t.

 

Dbossman- Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif , I am actually slowly looking for one....I am also strongly considering building a fuel cell for the car or just adapting one of my spare ones for my race car (late model).........either that or just drop my tank and give it a real good cleaning...the tank it self seems to be in good condition on the outside and from what I read finding a good condition tank at a decent price seems difficult (but I havent looked to hard yet).

 

Oh and on a side note...that eprom ecu that I paid for......is probably a scam /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif....after I paid the guy has not responded to any of my messages and has a few new posts against him......so watch out for Alex Ramos/TTstealth94/[email protected] (found him on dsmtuners)...if my ecu magically arrives then I will delete this post but it has been about a week with no response....

 

Thats awesome news that it was just a dirty arse tank clogging your in-tank filter, always nicer to have to use hard work instead of having to pay for a new pump.

 

Rivet- Yes good news indeed....I might still wind up stealing the 255 from my eclipse eventually but atleast I know I dont have to now. Also as you stated I much rather put some hard work into a car then more money lol

 

So I took my fuel pump out again to look/clean the filter and take another quick drive ( I got bored)......and the light was hitting the tank just right and I was able to see rust on a good bit of the tank inside...I was able to knock some of it off and my filter wasnt quite as dirty as the past but I am thinking just cleaning that tank wont help unless I use some muratic acid (or similar) and then hope I dont thin it out too much...........or probably the easier solution of find a good used one local (with 2 hours of Charlotte, NC)...if anyone knows of one let me know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

 

So since I have been having a hard time finding a good cheap fuel tank local I decided to attempt to clean mine while keep it in the car.......so I drained about 2 gallons of gas from it , filled it to the top with water...sloshed it around and drained it all.......then put abuot 6 gallons of fuel in it with two bottles of heet (water remover) and drained most of it until the fuel coming out looked normal. With about a gallon of gas (maybe less) I went for a test drive and the AFRS were great (comparatively speaking...actually a touch rich under boost) untill I ran out of fuel lol...luckily it died in my driveway. However while under neath the car looking to see how much of a paint it'd be to drop the tank I decided to look at the drive shaft since I had been getting a vibration in reverse....come to find out it has 3 bolts in it but all of them were about a turn away from falling out........so needless to say I tightened them up and the vibrations seem to have gone away.

On a side note....I only ran about 11 psi of boost but at about 7-8 psi that turbo really starts to pull :-D

 

Glad to hear it... even if you got another tank, you might have had to clean that one out anyways. I must LOL to your driveshaft bolts, but nice catch, that could have been a disaster.

 

Rivet- I lol'ed and breathed a sigh of relief that I caught it when I did...it definitely could have been bad.....the crazy thing is I kept telling myself over and over to nut&bolt the entire car before driving it...thats of course just the one thing I forgot lol...next time I am going to mark everything with bright orange tape that hasnt been checked /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

I took the galant on the main roads today and she did pretty well all things considered........and not that its a problem but the dash seems to ready about 3 mph fast...which is probably done on purpose for liability reasons (from mitsubishi)...although I am still curious why I appear to have a automatic/turbo/gvr4/usdm dash....


Fuel issue is slowly becoming less of a issue....I wrapped a sock around the fuel filter/strainer to help reduce the amount of new filters I have to buy (socks are cheaper then filters lol)..plus we did that with air filters in racing (but not the kind of socks you use on your feet) so I figured i'd apply the same concept here. I also used a magnent and an entire roll of paper towels to help clean the tank out more....I think it is almost fully clean. Fueling seems much more consistent and is nice and rich (eventually i'll tune it away from super rich but its a good problem right now). Also I realized I had a blonde moment when labeling my prior boost vs AFR scatter plot (origin is at the bottom left axis)


updated old boost vs AFR plot (clogged strainer/filter)

cleaner tank with new filter+sock



when pressing the brakes it will shake steering wheel, not bad if I am slow but the faster I get the worse it is, which makes me think a rotor is warped. Also if I pump brakes fast/hard vacuum goes from ~16 to ~10...if i hold the brakes down it stabilizes to ~15, not sure if this is normal just trying to provide insight.

Aside from that things seem to be going well, I had got scammed on one ecu for $100 but I got my money back from paypal *yay* and i'll likely be purchasing a real one for $125 in the next few days and hopefully a AFPR as well and then hopefully converting to speed density.

 

So i am finally going to have some time to work on the car (galant) tomorrow /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif, I am hoping to wire in my two electric fans and hopefully find out whats wrong with my brakes (not sure if its just rotors or worn calipers or bad something else).......anyhow I was bored looking on ebay and I could get 4 new slotted/drilled 4 lug rotors + ceramic pads all around from ebay for just under $200.....opinions? (links below)

Around charlotte getting rotors turned are $40 each, no place seems to carry stock rotors and although i'd love to convert to 5 lug I dont feel like removing the rear hubs right now....so it seems to me like my only option is to buy stock or slightly upgraded stock style stuff...

On another note I have a socketed ECU and AFPR coming in that'll hopefully be here in a week or so (should help with tuning and diagnosing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )


front rotors (rear rotors are same seller but a little cheaper):
click

front ceramic pads (can also find rears for about same price):
click

 

Went for another test drive today and messed with some more wiring inside of the car....I also think I found the limit of the 510 cc injectors and the holset he351 VGT as the car started leaning back out above 15 psi. I finally got my two electric fans wired up but it still not keeping the motor cool enough, I think I need to make a heat shield for the turbo since it is rather close to the radiator....a good catch can would hurt either (currently using an arizona green tea can )......I also installed my HDI ebc inside of my ash try, later i'll make it look prettier but I am currently concerned with functionality over aesthetics....I also placed my gage temporarily inside of the air vent.

On a side note I was playing with my brakes again and I noticed that if I quickly rev the engine (which causes the vac. to goto zero) the pedal get pretty firm while the engine is revving, if I rev it slow ( and vac. stays about constant) the pedal doesnt really change at all. I am still curious if my booster is bad or not......

I also replaced my fuel sock as the pump was starting to get loud again (implying it was dirty again)

 

[Boostdtalon]

Every time I see your thread. Its makes me want to get a PlX setup.

 

boostdtalon- I'll admit I really do like the gage and I soon plan to log that same information on my laptop (they sell a usb cable for doing that) but honestly I dont know that i'd pay full price for it. I was lucky enough to find a good deal on it used and in good condition as such I will probably buy a few more "modules" for it (egt/oil pressure/misc) since my initial investment was relatively low. However if you have the money and your looking to consolidate multiple gages into one then I dont know of a better product /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I also like the fact that I can pretty easily transfer this from car to car if need be.

 

Deffinately sounds like your rotors are warped causing your shaking. If you trying to just save a few bucks you could always have the rotors resurfaced by a repair shop or even a machine shop for possibly cheaper. Your brake booster sounds like its working correctly as they operate off engine vacuum and will use the engine vacuum when pressing the pedal. The brake pedal feels firmer when you rev the engine do to the turbo building pressure leaving no vacuum for the brake booster to operate. Have you looked into a possible failing brake master cylinder causing your brake pedal issue? The sock idea of the pump filter is a pretty sweet idea so you dont have to buy a case of those filters. Yeah you deffinately have a wierd cluster that no-one seems to know anything about.

 

Rivet-I hope that the rotors are the only issue but I dont usually get so lucky haha. I called a few shops around here and they want $20-$40 to resurface each rotor which at that price I can almost have new/better rotors (unless I can find good used ones "local"). I also agree with your statement about the booster seeming to work, I just dont ever recall just a drastic difference in pedal feel when revving from my other vehicles. I suppose the master cylinder could be the issues...perhaps one of the rings/seals are worn and not allowling enough pressure buildup. However I do not have any visual leaks inside of the car (from the master cylinder) and there is still enough pressure to lock up the RF wheel if I slam on the brakes (in the gravel)....regardless I might see if I can pull the master cylinder off of my eclipse and throw it on the galant if for nothing more than a test. Thank you, I had to do something about those stupid filter/strainers...at $10-$12 each it starting cutting into my budget pretty hard haha. Well I suppose that is a +1 for uniqueness on my car (the weird cluster)...I dont mind unique as long as it continues to function. However speaking about the dash I think I am supposed to have a button that changes the color of the dash but I have tried the switch around the dash and none of them do that.....perhaps a fuse/bulb or something is out though.

On a side note the car started running a little funny and then I saw smoke coming from my trunk......my battery bracket had come loose and was laying against the positive cable (the backet is bolted to the chassis).....as such I am going to add one more rod/bolt that will pull the bracket downward to prevent that from ever happening again. (just a side note for anyone with a rear battery and home made brackets).