First time GVR4 owner 965/2000 (3xdsm owner) :)

New toys- I got bored at school and found some scrap metal and TIG'ed up a overflow/catch can for the radiator.....I also got my AFPR stuff in.

BTW if anyone is curious the catch can is fed from bottom so when it does push water that radiator pulls it back in once it cools down...I also have it so it can overflow outside of the car if it ever fills up but it also allows me to eventually add a air-spring in the future (keeps the radiator pressurized even that way the motor doent have to completely cool down to pull the water back in.

 

And a shot of the AFPR installed/working without leaks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif......currently the fuel pressure at idle is a little over 40. I still have to make a bracket for it but all things in due time

 

So I figured id give another test run with the AFPR setting the base pressure at about 21 psi and a new fuel sock .....so I made a run to the gas station and then got on it a little......max boost 16.4 psi but it started breaking up about 15 psi and after looking at the gage it looks like it's b/c it was leaning out....I might raise the base fuel pressure some but I def. need to get some bigger injectors (holset he351vgt vs 510 cc injectors) but I am waiting on my ecu to come in so I can start tuning as is......I also need to get another wastegate spring as apparently psi still doesnt open it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif..........lastly I realized the vac. line to the brake booster didnt have a check valve so I installed one and it improved the brake feel but did not fix my issues....but it does brake a little better.




As you can see my little injectors appear to be maxing out after ~10 psi

 

yay I got my ecu in today /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif........and plus everyone likes pictures right?....with that being said I hooked up my ecu/ostrich to my laptop and found a stock .xdf/.bin file and loaded it up via tunerpro RT (I would have done dsmap/jackal but I dont have my IAT wired up yet for speed density) I think went and did a quick test drive and downloaded the ecu's modified file and took a screen shot of the fuel map (one is 3d the other is flat but some info).

 

[Boostdtalon]

What ECU did you go with now? Did you do a socketed setup or Evo?

 

boostdtalon-It's a standard 1g socketed ecu....nothing special.........actually after playing with it a little I wonder if my other socketed ecu works also (I had assumed it didnt b/c I tried to load a program and it didnt take but now I think I didnt have the settings/program correct). I used tuner pro RT which is free but they suggest you pay $30 (donation)...stock maps can be found online also.

I did consider the evo ecu but between the cost and me already having mostly everything to go speed density..and the fact that I hate wiring I decided to stay with a 1g .

 

So I have been wondering why my wastegate wasnt opening....(its "new" to me)...I though it might just have a really stiff spring in it but after a few times of getting to 15 psi and it not opening I got curious so I hooked up a mighty vac to the top top and pulled a vaccum...it did nothing even at 25 in-hg then I finally found a bicycle pump and tested another one I had laying around (but different style) and it opened up within one pump so I tried the one more my car and 4 pumps later the hose popped off (too much pressue due to WG never opening)......so I probably need to get that figured out soon.......any suggestions what to look for?

 

[Diego]

What type of bov?

 

Diego- It's a HKS style external wastegate

 

I just ordered a Jay Racing 1g alternator relocation kit (gm/saturn , aluminum) for the galant........the adapter bracket I made was a temporary one and not nearly as pretty, plus I look forward to being able to keep the alternator away from the exhaust and have a place to run my external WG dump. I will update with pictures/install once I get everything in.

 

[Boostdtalon]

Be careful with the aluminum one. They have the tendency to break in cold weather. If I ever do that I'm getting the steel one.

 

boostdtalon- Thanks for the heads up, I will keep an eye on it....if I ever start to see a crack or start getting a lot of deflection I will pull it off and or weld a gusset to it.

 

Well my relocation kit got here already , that was fast :-D......package well and looks nice and shiny , cant wait to hopefully install it tomorrow (assuming no rain).

 

Alright so here is a update/review/pictures of the Jay racing alternator relocation kit.

91 galant vr4
evo 3 motor (7 bolt)
gm/saturn alternator
Jay racing 1g gm/alternator kit in aluminum.

First I must say that Jay has responded to all of my emails very quickly and has been very helpful through this whole process, great guy. I ordered the product and it arrived very well packaged in just a few days with standard shipping, the kit did not come with any instructions but it is pretty self explanatory once you start putting everything together.

First I decided to do a quick mock up on a spare 6 bolt motor that I have laying just to make sure I was putting everything together right. I found out after putting it on my actual motor that if you are using a GM alternator the adjustable rod needs to sit on the passenger side of the bracket as you will see in the later pictures.



Next I mounted everything to my actual motor (note that tensioner is on the wrong side for the GM alt in this picture).


Next was the fun part of trying to squeeze the alternator passed the intake manifold which I did not want to remove.




After finally getting the alternator behind the motor I used a cup (race car) lug nut (just slightly smaller than the included spacer) since I didnt want to hammer/clearance my frame rail), note that you should install the belt over the alternator before putting this spacer in. Also I placed the spacer on the driver side of the bracket so that I could use the water pump pulley.


After realizing I had the tensioner on the wrong side I moved it over and bolted it up to the alternator.



Then I realized the belt was too long so after playing around with a few different belts I finally found the "perfect" belt. (5040413)


The 5040413 belt was a really tight fit to get on, I almost had to remove the water pump pulley but I was able to push on it hard enough sideways for it to finally slip on. After getting the belt on I had to adjust the tensioner to its limits to reach/tension the belt...I would have liked a little more adjustment (longer rod) but it seems to be sturdy and nothing moved/squealed when revving the engine so overall I am happy with kit.



You can also see how close the alternator sits to the chassis and why I decided to give myself a little more room although with a hammer the included spacer would have worked just fine.



Lastly this kit works alot better then my prior "rigged" gm/saturn alternator adapter bracket which was ugly and held the alternator at a slight angle causing squealing.....Again I am happy with my purchase and the aesthetics (comparatively) is worth the money in it self...not to mention the exteneded life of the alternator and finally being able to easily route my external wastegate dump pipe.

 

So I have a annoying leak that I am trying to find....it is a small leak and appears to be pressurized, it is coming roughly from the back of the block under neath the intake manifold....but I think its power steering fluid as thats the only one that appears to get low so far? I will include a few pictures of my low budget leak detector...I am open to suggestions and comments (this picture was with car running for about 5 minutes). Ideas???

 

Well You prety much nailed it, seems like you have a high pressure ps leak. Probably the line has a small crack in it.



Jesse

 

Jesse_W,

That would make sense however there are no PS lines that run in such a way to spray at that angle (unless it is bouncing off something I dont notice)...if you look at the second picture it almost looks like the leak must be in a plane parallel to the rear motor mount....and I suppose it could be engine oil and I just havent noticed any significant loss.

 

What I would do is have a friend in the car with it running turning the wheel back and forth while you hold a light and look where it’s coming from.... You should be able to tell just from the smell of the fluid if its ps or oil, and if not the smell the viscosity of it.


Jesse

 

Small update....once I set set the car down on the ground the motor moved just enough to contact the chassis...so I re modified my motor mount (couple of spacers) and now its fine again.....this problem is most likely due to my lack of precision when making that mount although I would suggest any who gets that kit to massage the chassis with a hammer just to make life easier.

also I was fortunate enough to have someone pump the brakes for me in the galant and I was able to hear what sounded like air in the ABS unit so I ripped it out, looped the lines going from the master cylinder to the p-valve (instead of putting new lines on it) and temporarily robbed my eclipses p-valve and two brake lines.......brakes feel better but problem is not solved...although I can lock all 4 wheels up in the gravel......it performs a little better after a pump or two which makes me think there is still air in the lines or just a bad master cylinder.

Lastly I got pretty much everything I need to convert to speed density so I will probably tackle that tomorrow and or saturday pending the weather /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif................on a side not if anyone has access to a palm 3.5 OS rom let me know...I lost my palm a while back and would prefer to log on my laptop via a palm emulator anyhow.

*actually I found a rom so I am good on that now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif*

 

*update* fired up the car on speed density :-D...havent ran it long but wired in the IAT and MAP, loaded the dsmap basemap with my injectors set in (510cc) and it fired right up......tomorrow (hopefully) I will wire in the wideband into the ecu and get the data logging working right...then tuning the car a little.