First time GVR4 owner 965/2000 (3xdsm owner) :)

[RedTwo]

Quoting cheekychimp:
Quoting chevyracer5613:

So is the only benefit to using the 3kgt trailing arms is so that you can have a functional ebrake? again I havent looked very long underneath my car to understand the difficulties yet...but I will probably be doing some reasearch under the car tomorrow :-D




Just to answer this, yes the main reason for doing this is to retain a functional e-brake whilst allowing you to fit larger rear calipers. The law here in Hong Kong requires me to have a cable operated e-brake to pass the annual tech inspection so this was really the only way around it.

That said other advantages of the swap are 5 lug hubs (although with a little machine work you can retain the 4 lugs if you wish) and it pushes the rear track out about 10-12mm each side. I'm not sure this significantly improves handling but the rear wheels on the stock rear end seem to tuck under the fenders far farther than the fronts do. The wider rear stance balances things back up nicely and gives the car a far more aggressive stance. I did this initially on my big build for the purpose of fitting four pot rear calipers but having seen the dramatic improvement in the stance, I will eventually do it with my daily even if I don't change the brakes on that car.



I just did it to mess with cheekychips head /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

I got bored the other day and placed my exhaust tip up to the bumper to figure out fitment issues (as you can see the jack is holding it up)....once I get some more 75/25 (welding gas) I will weld some hangers for it and get more 3" tubing so I can finish my exhaust......but this is what it should look like. Oh yea the tip is a thermal research...3" inlet and perhaps 5" outlet???)

 

[Lonewolf64]

No offense, but that muffler tip looks absolutely horrible. Not only that, but it will add exactly 0% to performance over a 3" outlet.

 

Lonewolf64- I appreciate your honesty. I do not expect to gain any performance from it...if anything I hope to not loose performance. The only reason I am wanting to put a muffler on it at all is so that I dont get hasseled during NC inspection. Also hopefully it'll make the car a little quieter then a straight 3" exhaust will. Lastly if it would fit under the bumper so I could hide it I would but then there'd be no good way to connect the exhaust to it (to sharp of a bend). I am open to suggestions though.

Also if I had one that had a 3" outlet i'd be happy..........but I have had that muffler for a while...it came with one of the cars I bought and "free" is nice...

 

Just thought i'd give a small update.
I drove the car a little bit today....about 2 miles..I am happy to say that it seems to be boosting fairly quick (for the turbo) however there is a slight vibration from the car at speed that I still need to diagnose and the brakes are still being funny. However they seemed to work a little better after I pumped them once or twice (they'd lock up in the gravel) which indicates there is still air in the lines (even though I have bled it a few times)....still havent figure out what to do with my exhaust....I tried moving it to the middle of the car to hide the big outlet but it wont fit (to big). Also eventually I am going to have to get a AFPR as I am running a little rich due to the walboro 195 but thats to be expected.

Things left to do before daily driver worthy:
fix brake issues
wire up electric fans and hopefully make them come on automatically like stock fans
find source of vibration and fix
new shifter bushings (inside the cab)
exhaust
clean up interior
tune

**Looking for a little advice...on tune......boost seems to start coming on soon which I like however as I get into boost the car starts to lean out (per wideband)...however the dash gage shows almost full boost. I know the dash gage isnt a real boost gage but a measure for what the ecu thinks its boosting via the MAF but if the ecu thinks I am boosting shouldnt it be providing more fuel? Also I tried a MAFT and a stock MAF and both produce similar results. Perhaps the FPR isnt working right? Any idea how to easily test the FPR? Lastly I get a CEL after the motor is warm with the MAFT and MAF...however with the stock MAF it will occasionally go off while I am driving.

*I change the FPR with another stock one I had laying around.......made no difference...just fyi

 

So I replaced the fuel filter today and it helped but did not solve my problem. The car cruises at a decent AFR but whenever I try to boost even a little it starts to lean out (feels like when you have a boost leak and a stock maf...fine if it gentle but the second you "push" it at all you loose power)......also whenever I start to boost a little the dash "boost" gage starts reading almost full boost..........so basically I guess I have to figure out why my car thinks I am boosting when I am not and why its not throwing enough fuel to everything to compensate. Lastly I have tried the stock MAF and GM MAF...both had similar results. I am open to ideas.......my next guesses are ecu/fuel lines/buying a AFPR (with gage)

 

New to forum, long time DSMer/Mechanic....After reading through the thread, you put a 190 fuel pump to replace the inop pump you had....wondering if your setup is over running the 190 fuel pump as you had a 255 pump in you DSM. Just a thought.

 

Rivet- Thanks for your response, I know I will probably hit that problem eventually but right now I am only running a few lbs (psi) of boost which shouldnt be overrunning the 190. Literally the second I start coming into boost (when the car stops feeling like a low compression NA pig lol) is when it starts to lean out....and the more throttle I give it the more it leans out and looses power......it really feels/acts like when you have a boost leak and your running a stock MAF....even the stock boost gage claims I am at boost when I am not (calculated air flow).....I also have a CEL when I run the GM maf and MAFT...and the stock MAF however with the stock MAF the light will go on and off (seems to go off with a little throttle under a load). I am thinking about grabbing another GM MAF out of the junk yard tomorrow to see if that helps ( I am doubtful). I really need to get a fuel pressure gage so I can see whats going on and potentially rule out a fuel delivery issue.

 

If anyone is selling a eprom ECU (socketed) for cheap let me know............or if anyone can repair one..........I had a "buddy" socket one of mine and it hasnt worked since...not sure why but I am wanting to convert to speed density (jackal)..... I also already have a ostrich. Lastly if anyone can provide tips for testing the ecu I am always willing to listen (I already put it in the car...CEL stays on and car wont fire...havent tested the diag. port to check the code).

Also if anyone near charlotte, NC has a socketed ecu that wouldnt mind letting me borrow for a couple minutes i'd appreciate it .....I just want to hook up my ostrich (has a basemap from jackal on it) and I just want to see if the car will fire up and run.

 

Just a quick update.....I pulled the CEL and it was giving code 25 (barometric pressure sensor)......so I got another GM MAF out of the junk yard.......but it still acts/run the exact same.

So what are the possible issues:
Bad fuel pump
clogged fuel lines
magically bad injectors (motor ran/boosted/fueled fine before I swapped into the galant)
magically bad ECU (ran fine before)
bad stock MAF and bad MAFT with a possibly side of continuous bad gm MAF's
the devil
????

I am thinking about pulling the 255 out of my eclipse and replacing my 190 with it since I know it worked but that car has alot of crap in it (I loaded it will all of my spare sparts to clean up the garage.....).......looking for ideas/solutions...I am also looking and potentially buying another eprom ecu and a AFPR w/gage in the next week or so.


*update* No need for a eprom ecu anymore...just bought one for $100 shipped :-D

 

Is there a possiblity that the wiring got messed up from the MAFT on the baro sensor circuit since you probably had to wire it into the VR4 when transfering from the DSM?

 

Rivet- Wiring with a new car is always a potential issue, however the MAFT is plug and play so no wires were cut/spliced...but that doesnt mean the stock wiring harness was correct to start with. I will give it a look some time this week to see if there are any cuts or anything.

 

*update* CEL is now gone, I looked into the wiring for the MAF and someone had cut/twisted/taped the wires....two of which were both green with a yellow stripe and looked easy to confuse...so I researched these two wires and they were the barometric sensor wire and idle switch wire....so I disconnected them, switched them , and pulled the battery cable and went for a drive....no more CEL :-D......but thats the only thing it fixed....it still leans out the second I start getting into boost. However the MAFT seems to be responsive I changed a few settings and noticed the dash boost gage fully light up sooner (in my attempts to richen the car up).....with that being said I am fairly positive the issue must be in the fuel system (not able to supply enough fuel)...so I am on the hunt for a AFPR with gage and I might swap out the fuel pump this weekend for my 255 in my eclipse (that I know is good). Aside from that I still have my other issues (brakes) and needing to wire up the electric fans but its slowly coming together /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


A quick note on the brakes....when I am driving the will get a little firmer if I pump but not much...and it doesnt fix the problem....if I slam on the brakes in my gravel driveway the RF is the only one locking up.....

 

Willing to bet the 255 pump fixes the lean condition.... Your brakes sound like they need a good old fashion brake bleeding, or the hoses are shot, and a slight possibility of the ABS motor being the problem.

 

Rivet- I am thinking/hoping that is the problem b/c it is a relatively easy fix....I bought the 190 used but allegedly in good condition though. Well I used speed bleeders for the first time and they seemed to work decently well...I bled the brakes 3 times and the pedal got nice and firm....also the "pump up" when i drive is very minimal but any at all does represent air still in the line (or a hose thats about to explode). I too thought maybe the ABS was acting funny and at the time had a ABS light, so I disconnected the three plugs up front , pulled the fuse out and went to pull the abs ecu out of the trunk to find out it had already been removed....anyhow I no longer have a ABS light but the ABS pump is still in the circuit. I might have to find a simple way to get rid of it (i'd rather not strip the eclipse as I am trying to sell it) and as always I am on a budget (who isnt lol). Thanks for the responses and I will keep you/yall updated on the progress.

 

So I had a few minutes before having to get back to school and I decided to take a look at the fuel pump. While back there I realized I hadnt change the little green filter on top for the tank (I assume its the return line filter) so I decided to pull it off and see if it was clogged....well I heard a slight vacuum when I pulled it off and the lines/filter were completely dry....so I placed a clear filter on there temporarily and fire the car back up and no fuel was flowing to.........should it? I looked under the car and there seems to be three lines....high pressure feed line that comes out of the fuel pump, the assumed fuel return line that runs to the top of the tank with the little filter, and another that goes into the front of the fuel tank.....any idea what the latter one is?

If perhaps my fuel return line is clogged somewhere (even partially) would that cause a lean condition? It seems it would cause a rich condition from too much pressure in the fuel rail...but perhaps the clog would prevent the fuel pump from ever delivering enough pressure? Also I took the vacuum line off the stock FPR with the car running and it made zero difference...just fyi.

 

The other line should be for the evaporative emissions system. Never seen a filter on the return line before that i can remember. If your fuel line was clogged enough it could cause a lean condition. Not really sure about flow on the return line, doubt that you would really see much "flow" through the return in my opinion though.

 

[Barnes]

You probably replaced the check valve with a filter.

 

[AnotherNewb]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif oops.

Pressure in the tank good. Vacuum in tank bad. Try driving with your gas cap off

 

If you still have all your emissions equipment hooked up, it will put a vacuum on the fuel tank to suck out the fumes. But shouldn't have vacuum on the tank for any other reason.