First time GVR4 owner 965/2000 (3xdsm owner) :)

bandonechols- Good info to know, thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[TurboTrader]

Awesome to see the progress so far! I was beginning to wonder if 965 would ever run and felt guilty every time I turned the key on 145 watching her sit since I didn't have the time.

I'm following this thread! Hopefully before soon we'll see a vid of you ripping down the street!

 

Turbotrader- Thanks for the kind words, I actually took a video early today of her running on jack stands...however it didnt turn out as good as a like (the video) however I will try to upload one in the next few days. As far as one going down the road...that might be a few more weeks lol........but all things in due time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

click
Alright so here is a quick video of the car running on jackstands, just to summarize the car: 1991 galant vr4, evo III motor, holset he351 vgt with mechanical control (oil and water cooled), currently no FMIC, GM MAFT (eventually speed density), custom 3" downpipe (thats the only exhaust currently on the car), front wheels converted to 5 lug...the rear soon enough, walboro 190 fuel pump, battery relocation to the back (not finished yet), saturn GM alternator (currently rewiring since it was draining the battery), dual oil filter relocation kit, evoIII front mount oil cooler and.........yes I know my spark plug cover says talon...i'll change it eventually

a quick picture of the rims that are going on it

 

In effort to maintain a sleeper look in the galant I orginally planned on doing a full Car pc and displaying my gages on their.......well between time and money (mostly money) and a trade oppurtunity that arose I know own a PLX dm-200 with the AFR and Boost modules............basically its a customizable all in own gage...I can display 4 parameters at once , view a time plot, numeric gage, dial gage or upload my own graphics.......I dont have the gage mounted yet because I am not sure where I want it but here are a few pictures with the different gages for AFR. Modules are currently located in center console.......sorry for crappy pictures/lighting.

 

Also I added power steering to the car.........currently the only leak is at the top of the pump where the high pressure line connects.......allegedly most people suggest crush washers even though they dont come stock.....i'll figure something out.

Also I got a AC compressor and bracket off a 91 mirage since hollander said the compressor would work...........well when I tried to bolt the bracket to my motor I quickly realized either I am blind or its not gonna fit, secondly the tensioner setup on it uses a v belt, my motor is setup for a ribbed belt...although I am sure I could change it if I wanted to. I didnt notice that on one of the eclipse's that I looked at the AC for it had a ribbed belt also, I wonder if I can use a t/e/l ac compressor bracket/tensioner with the mirage (allegedly the same as galant) compressor?

 

[RedTwo]

That gauge is pretty cool - I don't think it will be sleeper to the guy behind you though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

RedTwo- Thanks....well the gage placement is causing a mental debate....mount it low and out of sight that is hard to look at when I am going fast, or make it easily visible to everyone .....so many choices /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

Hey everyone...I have been working on the car slowly over the past 2 months, been busy with school and trying to find some sponsors for my late model (asphalt circle track) but anyhow the car is almost road ready....I could put her on the road right now but i'd like to replace the RF outer tie rod end and i'd love to find some new rotors local (but thats harder then you'd think...no one seems to stock them). Also I bought a new FMIC for $75, had to make some brackets for it but aside from the good price the inlet/outlet is on the same side which make a world of difference when trying to route the IC tubing since the turbo is so large. I also mounted the oil cooler up front as you will see and finally mounted my dual oil filter relocation kit (uses mustang filters)....hopefully I can get some steel braided lines for it eventually. Lastly I finally decided where I want to mount the battery and now I just have to make a few brackets for it, after that its just cleaning up the interior (wiring/installing radio/maybe new seats???) and tuning it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

Here are a few pictures for yall.....also if anyone knows where a decent front bumper is at a good price local let me know....I am not a huge fan of mine being all cut up like it is......

 

She is finally on the ground :-D.........perhaps ill drive her around some this week/weekend as she still needs some work done to her (mainly wiring stuff up then hiding the wires).......but she is finally off of jack stands :-D

Also I took a picture of the front motor mount that I made due to the large turbo (he351 vgt) and it being a evo3 motor....i'd of preferred to do it with a heim so I could adjust it but it should work for now.

 

[CutlassJim]

I'm too lazy to read through your whole thread. What are you doing for roll stoppers with a 7 bolt motor in there?

 

cutlassJim-Front roll stopper is pictured right above you...it is a piece of steel ............driver side motor mount was cut and welded to get the motor aligned right, rear roll stopped and pass. side mount are stock.
I had previously (with a smaller turbo) used a similar piece of steel that provided better support but my turbo is currently in the way so I had to use this...which will eventually get a little extra bracing or i'll switch to a adjustable heim joint.

 

[CutlassJim]

Your front roll stopper is my ceiling? Kidding, I Fkn fail. That's what I get for browsing on the pooper at work. Is there provisions for a rear roll stop bracket on a 7 bolt motor?

 

[cheekychimp]

Quoting chevyracer5613:

So is the only benefit to using the 3kgt trailing arms is so that you can have a functional ebrake? again I havent looked very long underneath my car to understand the difficulties yet...but I will probably be doing some reasearch under the car tomorrow :-D




Just to answer this, yes the main reason for doing this is to retain a functional e-brake whilst allowing you to fit larger rear calipers. The law here in Hong Kong requires me to have a cable operated e-brake to pass the annual tech inspection so this was really the only way around it.

That said other advantages of the swap are 5 lug hubs (although with a little machine work you can retain the 4 lugs if you wish) and it pushes the rear track out about 10-12mm each side. I'm not sure this significantly improves handling but the rear wheels on the stock rear end seem to tuck under the fenders far farther than the fronts do. The wider rear stance balances things back up nicely and gives the car a far more aggressive stance. I did this initially on my big build for the purpose of fitting four pot rear calipers but having seen the dramatic improvement in the stance, I will eventually do it with my daily even if I don't change the brakes on that car.

 

cutlassjim- I am using the stock gvr4 rear motor mount with no mods to the mount/block so yes /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

Cheekychimp- Thanks for that response, once I decide to go 5 lug I will look into that swap for sure....and when that happens I am sure I will be sending you a few messages along the way lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

 

[cab222]

nice car

 

Cab222- Thank you, she still needs some work but she is moving in the right direction :-D

 

Also I finished (for now) my rear battery mount.....its not as elegant as i'd like but then again I am on a budget and it only cost $3 for battery tie down rods (from autozone) and I had the aluminum in my scrap bin which I just drilled two holes through. The two "J" hooks went into stock holes located in the trunk (so no drilling needed)....however in the future I might drill a hole for one more clamp to hold down the bottom front of the battery, just to make sure it will be completely secure.

 

Just out of curiosity perhaps someone can shed some light on this. I have bled the brakes a few times (with speedbleeders) and with the engine off I get good stiff pedal feel, however whenever I turn the car on the pedal gest softer then it should.......for instance I drove it to the bottom of my driveway and when I went to stop my foot went to the floor...it stopped just not as well as it should have. I do not see any leaks from the car, I just unplugged all of the ABS stuff since I had a light (probably due to the ABS ECU being unplugged. Also with the engine running the pedal stiffness is speed dependant..if I press it slow it is soft...if I pump it really fast its firmer but always constant for a given speed........also if I hold the brakes then shut the motor off the brake gets firmer. From what I ready on other sites people suggest brake master cylinder or booster....with the occasional caliper causing an issue. I figured i'd check in with yall before buying new/used parts and see if anyone else has had this problem.

Thanks