The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
1990 Oil Filter Housing Question?
- Thread starter atc250r
- Start date
CP
Well-known member
Damn Corey, that thing is twice as big as mine is (the oil cooler /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif ).
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Yeah, it's fairly large. Which is why I am not Uber concerned about it being directly in the path of air. Although I am still gonna run a tube from the fog light hole right to the front of it.
Yeah, it's fairly large. Which is why I am not Uber concerned about it being directly in the path of air. Although I am still gonna run a tube from the fog light hole right to the front of it.
CP
Well-known member
That'd be the same one I've got. Made it through 2 days of lapping last week and the car still runs.
Romanova
Well-known member
Part number for 1990 oil filter housing? Guess I should start stockpiling all these parts...
CP
Well-known member
Quote:
CP: where did you mount it? I was thinking of the front grill.
Not the greatest picture, but you can see one end of it on the passenger side partially behind the intercooler.
CP: where did you mount it? I was thinking of the front grill.
Not the greatest picture, but you can see one end of it on the passenger side partially behind the intercooler.
CP
Well-known member
What was used to port the relief valve in the housing? My Dremel bits keep getting gunked up with metal and don't cut very well. I don't want to use the carbide burr on my die grinder because the bit hops around and will scar the mating surfaces like on my other one; the head is too big to start making the hole bigger. What can I use that will fit the Dremel but won't get smooth (caked) with metal after some use?
Try spraying the bit with WD40. It is supposed to help keep the bit clean.
CP
Well-known member
Thanks for the suggestion.
However I'm currently trying to use those Dremel attachments that appear to be made of some kind of stone. They feel like sandpaper and are cylindrical in shape with a pointed end. Should I be using something else? I can't control the carbide bit as well because it's too big to start the hole and hops around by itself. I'd rather not fuxor up my two carbide bits b/c they're very expensive, or another filter housing.
However I'm currently trying to use those Dremel attachments that appear to be made of some kind of stone. They feel like sandpaper and are cylindrical in shape with a pointed end. Should I be using something else? I can't control the carbide bit as well because it's too big to start the hole and hops around by itself. I'd rather not fuxor up my two carbide bits b/c they're very expensive, or another filter housing.
I put my housing in a vise and used my air powered grinder with a Carbide bit. I had the same problem with it jumping around but I made it work. My bit didn't get clogged up at all. Having the pressure real high in the tank helped also. It made it less likely to bind up and jump around. For the few tiny scratches I made on the sealing sureface I put RTV on. It's not leaked a drop.
CP
Well-known member
My setup looks like an operating table right now. Everything is taped up so that only the hole and surrounding material is exposed. I'm not taking the risk of another mystery leak. Hell, this may not even be the problem, but I've looking into everything else and think of anything else it could be.
My die grinder is electric, so I can't mess with the speed or kickback nature of it. I'll see what I can find at Home Depot Racing and Lowes for the Dremel. Maybe a big drill bit would work, but then I'd be worried about messing up the opposite side of the valve sleeve.
My die grinder is electric, so I can't mess with the speed or kickback nature of it. I'll see what I can find at Home Depot Racing and Lowes for the Dremel. Maybe a big drill bit would work, but then I'd be worried about messing up the opposite side of the valve sleeve.
CP
Well-known member
No. But thanks for the suggestion /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif I get to buy more gadgets by doing all the work myself. And I'd have no idea where to start looking in my neck of the woods for a "porting person" with the appropriate tools to do the job. This will only take 5 minutes once I get the correct attachments. I'm off to Lowes up here in Woburn now...
jepherz
Staff member
Chris (boostinhard) is always just a few days away 
atc250r
Staff member
I ordered a carbide bit from Summit Racing. It may not be as good as the high dollar Snap On ones but it gets the job done for me. You really should invest in a compressor (even a small one) and a die grinder for this sort of work. BTW the WD40 trick is the best but works more for porting aluminum than steel/iron.
John
John
lunchbox
Well-known member
I just get carbides from swap meets. I have used a bunch of them now and for $4 each you can not beat them. I have some of the first ones I got and they are still going strong with a few years of use, lots of porting, and some grinding of stainless steel.
You can also try putting wax on the bits that you are running in aluminum. Purpose built bits for porting aluminum have much larger flutes and do not plug.
You can also try putting wax on the bits that you are running in aluminum. Purpose built bits for porting aluminum have much larger flutes and do not plug.
atc250r
Staff member
Yeah but even those plug to some extent. When I opened the center holes on my TL wheels to fit them on the GVR4 I bought one of the aluminum specific bits and it clogged slightly but if I would dip it into a cup of rust penetrant when I felt it getting a little "dull", it would wake right up again.
John
John
CP
Well-known member
Finished. I used copious amounts of WD40 throughout the process. Pretty easy once you get the correct bit. This one for my Dremel was nice and small, so it fit into the factory hole and slowly enlarged it from there.
