I removed my outlet from the thermostat housing, tapped and plugged it. I am using a 1990 style water pipe to eliminate the other. But this is on a total rebuild with everything apart and out of the car, so it is much easier.
I replaced the t-stat housing with one from a NT car (DSM or galant it doesn't matter as long as its a 4G63 DOHC). I wouldn't just loop them or cap them since I know that the failure of one of those caused a member here to wreck his car when it blew open and puked antifreeze all over his tires at the track. Either to it the way iceman did it or replace the whole housing like I did.
So a housing from a crappy regular Galant will work, using our t-stat internals (that gold colored thing with the spring)? I may have to go pluck one from the junker I've been pirating as of late if this is the case.
I'll also need the 1990 big coolant pipe that runs in front of the engine, behind the turbo? I assume that the little coolant line right there that runs from the t-stat to the filter housing is removed? Just making sure before I start looking for parts...
Might as well just replace the pipe to do it right I suppose. I'm going to try to do the timing belt, all the other belts, water pump, oil filter housing w/ external cooler, water pipe, t-stat housing and turbo all at the same time some weekend.
I'm heading back to the poor Galant I've been stripping in the junkyard today at lunch to check out the t-stat housing and pull it if it's still there. I'll post a picture tonight for clarification purposes.
You can't use the NT waterpipe unless you are not running coolant through your turbo anymore. There is no provision on it to feed the turbo coolant via that horseshoe shapped pipe that goes from the crossover pipe to the front of the turbo. You don't actually need to run the coolant to the turbo but that is a choice you'll have to make.
I looked at a junked Galant LS (auto) t-stat housing today with the intention of pulling it, but it looked totally different. Instead I came back with a pocketfull of nuts and bolts, fasteners, two trunk fender liners and the charcoal canister bracket for my catchcan.
All oil cooler parts have been ordered. I went with a 13-row Mocal oil cooler and -8AN lines and fittings. I'm going to mod the filter housing soon, as we'll be pulling the balance shafts at the same time. How much should I open that port up in order to drop my oil pressure a bit? Finger sized?
One last question. I plan to loop the coolant hoses at the thermostat housing. Which water pipe do I need (final answer!)? The engine will be OUT of the car for all this during Memorial Day weekend, and timing belt, water pump...
If you are using a watercooled turbo then you need a 1990 pipe. Otherwise a NT pipe would be best. I opened the port up on mine to about 1/2" if I remember correctly, once you pull the piston out you'll see how big it is and how big you can go with it. Remember to de-burr the inside of the hole so the piston doesn't get stuck open /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif.
Reading on "another" site yesterday and you really can't make the hole to big, within reason. Some used a 9/32" drillbit, others used 11/32" drill bit, and some use a Dremel like me. Here is the link with pics that has been whored around everywhere.
As for the water pipe, it makes sense to me to use a 90 water pipe. Since those were the only ones that didn't use the water/oil cooler. I personally didn't have my motor out (and didnt care to pull the water pipe) so I just looped the lines under the car with a short section of hose.
You'll need a '90 TURBO water pipe if you plan on using the drain/supply from the pipe and thermo housing. You then won't be able to "loop" the lines and you'll just have to cap off the port on the thermostat housing.
Alright, thanks fellas. 1990 water pipe since I always plan to use a water cooled turbo. And I'm going to attack that filter housing with my die grinder and carbide bit tonight /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
I remember Powerplay having very high oil pressure when he added all these parts to his car last year. I wonder if he ever fixed it to bring it down...
Of course! I even posted a picture of the port after it was done. My oil pressure is a constant 60-70 lbs now.
BTW, when I did the '90 filter housing, I had Alex just weld up the port for the coolant line. Easy, no problems and I didn't have to find a replacement.
Depending on how much the 1990 pipe costs, I may just JB Weld it while we're installing all this stuff. I'm trying to find your thread right now with the picture...
Sleepy, I just ran across a post on here yesterday where several people had said they weren't running water through their water cooled turbos. Let me see if I can remember what thread it was in....
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