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1990 Oil Filter Housing Question?

sleepyvr4

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I just spoke with Mike, one of the turbo techs at forced performance. He told me Mitsu put the water lines to the turb as added insurance against people who don't time their turbs. He said the b16g they sell with the dry cartridge was identical oil passages to the other td05 turbs. The water serves no "real" purpose, but make sure you have adequate clean oil, and practice proper shut down intervals.

Yes, my son, you are reading about my next elimination. This will make turb swaps and other jobs much simpler from here on out.

Anyone selling an NT water line? PM me please.
 

joec

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I'd suspect that you want to make sure you upgrade the stock oil cooler if you do that. The oil is going to be responsible for handling a lot of extra heat that was dissipated through the radiator when the turbo was water cooled.
 

CP

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Quote:
I'd suspect that you want to make sure you upgrade the stock oil cooler if you do that. The oil is going to be responsible for handling a lot of extra heat that was dissipated through the radiator when the turbo was water cooled.



External oil cooler going on in the next few weeks. I'm keeping the water lines until it's proven by someone here running the car REALLY HOT that the turbo won't get cooked without them.
 

Quote:
I'd suspect that you want to make sure you upgrade the stock oil cooler if you do that. The oil is going to be responsible for handling a lot of extra heat that was dissipated through the radiator when the turbo was water cooled.



Think about it though, 90 dsm guys dont have those issues.
 

joec

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Their turbos *ARE* water cooled -- and they have an external oil cooler (not sure if that's more efficient than the coolant one on the later models).
 

Polish

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My freind auto crosses his 18g with no water lines, never has any problems. He ran his 14b like that for a year as well. Never had an issue, he installed a turbo timer at the same time though. fwiw
 

jepherz

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Keep in mind that all of the reports of usage without water lines is for very short periods of time. Who knows if the turbos will still last as long. After all, the water lines are there for a reason.
 

Quote:
Their turbos *ARE* water cooled -- and they have an external oil cooler (not sure if that's more efficient than the coolant one on the later models).



Any external cooler has to be better than the tiny sandwich fitting.
 

sleepyvr4

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all of this is relevant. Cy is installing an oil cooler because it's a good idea for his application (ie road racing). I daily drive my pos, and almost never get into boost (well, boost under load. W/ the gm maf in blow through and my free flowing setup it's ALWAYS around 0-5psi). I make a few passes at the track once or twice a month with a 14b. It's a cheap replacement. I have 3 lying around in good shape. Think about the guys with a large ass turbo, no water lines, more heat, no air/air cooler.

I know a guy who eliminated the oil cooler on a 90 and didn't switch to a water cooled oil filter housing and the car still runs great. No turb problems. Now that's real.
 

^Why would he just eliminate the cooler though by blocking off the lines? Why not let it cool? Am I missing something?
 

CP

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All my parts have arrived. It's a Mocal 13 row cooler, with a Mocal 180* thermostat. I drive this car in the winter, and I don't want the oil to take forever to come up to operating temp if it was circulating through the cooler while warming up. The thermostat opens up at 180* to let oil circulate through the cooler.

I think I'm going to get two more 90* bends to use for the cooler connections. The plan is to mount this thing on the passenger side in front of the radiator, above the intercooler and behind the grill. Does it matter if the cooler is mounted above or below the filter housing (thinking about gravity and oil flow)?



I got everything from Summit for somewhere around $200+. However I got the metric>AN filter housing connections and washers from Machv.
 
Last edited:

CP

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sweet. now eliminate it.



And no, I don't get this post /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif All you need to do is shatup and help me install this thing next weekend /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

sleepyvr4

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eliminate your oil filter housing, then you won't have these issues. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Seriously though, don't worry about location for the cooler. Gravity means nothing when you have +100psi pressure.
 

That setup looks sweet CP. I'm looking to scrap my stock 90 unti pretty soon too.
 

CP

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I don't like the condition of the 1990 oil coolers that circulate throughout our community, so I went with this NEW one. The thermostat sounded like a good idea, and will aid with quick engine warm-up during the winter. Does it matter where the thermostat is located (closer to the filter housing or closer to the cooler)?
 

sleepyvr4

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Quote:
eliminate your oil filter housing, then you won't have these issues. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Seriously though, don't worry about location for the cooler. Gravity means nothing when you have +100psi pressure.



you don't have to worry about position, rather. Location is pretty important, I mean, you do want air to cross the thing.
 

Cy,
Your setup is v. similar to what I did, but w/o the thermostat. I went with a Setrab similar to the Mocal, about same size or maybe a couple rows wider. It is mounted vertically exactly where you planned. I made a couple aluminum L brackets from some aluminum angle and bolted the cooler in place top and bottom, ran lines along the bottom of the radiator. Cooler is higher than the filter but it may not all drain when changing because the lines angle down a bit to/from the filter housing. I don'w worry about it because I change the oil more often than necessary, so whatever dirty oil remains gets diluted with a lot of fresh oil. Above or below should not matter in operation if that was what you were concerned about. Static head would be around 0.37 psig/ft elevation difference, i.e. negligible resistance to flow under pump pressure.
Mike R.
 
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