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unibody section replacement

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Quoting DR1665:

I've thought about the healthcare industry, but I think the way I'm always messing up this or that on the path to recovery would mean a lot of malpractice suits.



"well, sir, the good new is that you're going to live...

...the bad news is we didn't have any good human bits about, and had to part out a few varmits that were hit out on route 66...

There may be some unfortunate side effects from the badger parts we used, and we would appreciate it if you would keep us informed on how you're feeling.

....ahhhh,...also almost hate to mention this, but if you happen to find a 12mm socket, could you give us a ring....we're missing a few bits of the operating room kit"


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Progress looks good, Brian.

Lets see some action shots! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,643
Location
Iowa City, IA
Got the FMIC inlet addressed tonight. Used some ABS plastic plumbing bits from Home Depot and got the 2.5" oval inlet to seal up with a section of reinforced radiator hose I picked up at Auto Zone in the OEM 1 7/8" ID piping from the J-pipe. Have another section of the hose to run from the TB to a section of OEM piping with the BOV on it, but I didn't address the FMIC outlet and, since Home Depot is now closed, I can't wrap up the boost tonight. I'm going to wait to cut the piece of OEM piping with the BOV on it until I have my solution for the FMIC outlet.

Have the factory snorkel attached to the turbo inlet and air filter box. Hooked up the MAF to get rid of that pesky CEL (I hate those things) while not having the turbo fully plumbed into the intake stream. Yeah, the ECU didn't like that. "If he's venting to atmosphere, kill him in the face." Car wouldn't even idle like that.

I still have to cap those damn high pressure lines from the steering rack and reinstall the front crossmember, but I think I stand a pretty good chance of actually wrapping things up tomorrow night. Looking forward to printing a three day tag and running the car to work Wednesday. Timing couldn't be much better (could have made the rally, I guess); Thursday night is the local DSM In-N-Out meet in Chandler. Would be awesome to make it out for once.

Here's a pic of the car idling on the street in front of the house after a nice little 15 minute test drive...

 

Rausch

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
Quote:
"If he's venting to atmosphere, kill him in the face."

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif


Otherwise, Excellent work! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 
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DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,643
Location
Iowa City, IA
Aaron - Buddy of mine with a wicked 1G out east said that once. I know you can set the car up to where venting is possible with no ill effects, but I like the saying. :p
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,643
Location
Iowa City, IA
5psi through the front mount! Ghetto as hell, but it works! Feels awesome too.

Cooling fan no longer coming on when it should. Temps climbed to 240 while idling with the good up and both fans running on AC switch. Not sure what's going on, but no sir, I don't like it!

Still have no power steering. Still have IC strapped in with bungees. Still don't remember where the vac line goes from the fitting in the pipe next to the BOV.

Help! If I can keep it cool, I can button it up! Thanks!
 

ktmrider

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
3,128
Location
Tempe, AZ
Check the temp switch at the bottom of the radiator. If good then move to the relay on the drivers side of the core support. Next the resistor pack.
Outstanding job! Perserverance and patience live in abundance at your home sir.
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,643
Location
Iowa City, IA
Thanks for the info! Temp switch was working fine the other night, but it's worth testing again. If I jumper the two leads for the sensor together on the harness side, that should turn the fan on. If it does, I know it's either the sensor or the connection on the fan side. If it doesn't, then I need to check the fuses and relays again.

I'm also going to pick up some weather stripping to put between the fan shroud and radiator, as well as between the radiator and condenser. That should maximize airflow through the cores instead of allowing it to bypass. Increased efficiency, imo.

No resistor on either fan. If they come on, they come on full steam. It's hot out here.

Hope to have the car out on the roads this weekend for some action shots!
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,643
Location
Iowa City, IA
Sealed up the radiator fan last night with foam weatherstripping. Buttoned up the IC piping in that area as well. Topped off the radiator and the fan still won't come on once temps are reached. Furthermore, once the temps are upwards of 220*, turning on the AC for both fans, even on a 70* evening, isn't enough to pull the temps back down.

I was going to troubleshoot the temp switch for the rad fan, but Vanessa came out to tell me the kitchen sink faucet broke off in her hand, so it was a 9pm trip to Home Depot to buy a new faucet set and get that installed. After all that, I was up at 5am this morning so I could be back at Home Depot at six to fill out paperwork for my second job (starting next week). Ugh. So tired.

Have a birthday party to attend tonight and tomorrow is poker night, so it might be Saturday morning before I can get back under the hood. I will complete this car this weekend. Hell or high water...
 

PreskitVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
272
Location
Prescott, Northern AZ
Quoting DR1665:
Oh and, by the way, Dale (PreskitVR4) very seriously needs to post pictures of his Galant. It's f***ing bad ass.

(Good to see you yesterday, Dave.)



Your opinion goes to show that a nice set of wheels is all it takes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif Thank you very much!! I will try and pry the digital camera away from my GF for a day and get some up. Only being able to check the forum about once a month kills me!
 

hip hip hurray /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,643
Location
Iowa City, IA
Got the crossmembers all tied in together. Installed Mr. MBC and doubled the boost seen through the FMIC to a solid 12psi. Man, was that nice. The bumper doesn't fit over the FMIC, so I think I'll leave it off. With or without it installed, the next front ender this car takes will be its last, so why bother?

Oddly enough, despite the cooling fan working right earlier, and even on a test drive just now, it's still not acting 100% right. Decided not to come on for some reason. It's either the switch in the radiator or the connections I made to the harness. Will troubleshoot that some more tomorrow. It's the biggest issue I've got remaining.

Oh yeah, I got about two pulls in at 12psi before I lost boost altogether. Car still idles fine, though. Go figure. A blown connection somewhere would be instant stall out, so I'm not sure what's going on there, but I figure I'll pull the couplers again in the morning and double check them all. I'll be installing my IC support brackets tomorrow anyway, so it will be a good time to do it all at once.

Here's 195, looking like a regular old Galant, parked out on the street in front of the neighbors' house while I move the truck in the driveway to get it back in the garage. Looks so nice. LS fenders seem to be missing the dogleg lower screw holes in addition to the lower snap-retainer hole compared to the GVR4 fenders. And yes, I will paint the hood to match. I've just got an idea I want to try first. Can we say "GalantVR4.org: The Anti-Rice" and "Can I get this old girl into Members' Showcase?" lulz

As always, thanks for the support, fellas. Sure helps to keep the motivation up when sh*t goes wrong (and it does, with alarming frequency on this project).

 

CarRacer

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
4,372
Location
Shakopee, MN
Big pimpin', that looks like a car again.

You've come a long way man.

main.php
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,643
Location
Iowa City, IA
Thanks!

After a quick call to boostedinaz, it seems I have a wastegate arm to inspect in the morning. I remember seeing the little clip that holds the rod on the arm was missing. Why else would the car run like a normal, NA car while making no boost? Doh!

Good thing I've got three RC cars in the garage with a handful of body clips each! Looking forward to printing a three day tag to get the car to work Monday morning!

EDIT: Remember this picture? (Between the 4WS hardlines, on the hot side.)

 
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Polish

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,936
Location
NE, IN
awesome job brian. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

Yes congrats. Wanna trade gvr4's? Mine won't run as good as yours but you can sit in it and start it and listen to the engine idle.
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,643
Location
Iowa City, IA
Sure thing, Mike! I'll trade you 195 and $5 for yours. I'll even deliver! Lulz

Got the hood pins installed. Wrapping up intercooler brackets next. Then its time to fit the bumper cover. Wo0t!
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,975
Location
Yakima, WA
Oh good. You are installing a bumper, or the cover at least. When I read that you weren't going to install the bumper, I assumed you meant the whole thing. I was like /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif . Looks much better than before. Did you get the issue with the core support differences sorted out?
 
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