I've been following this thread & all I have to say is, someone please help him out with the fans! You deserve to go ralling this weekend dude /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif. The dsm fan is thicker because there's more room between the radiator & the turbo & yes the connectors are different too. Where are your old connectors? If nothing else hardwire it in.
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
unibody section replacement
- Thread starter DR1665
- Start date
DR1665
Well-known member
I'm going to hardwire the one fan in tonight for sure. I just checked Autozone, Pep Boys and CSK online for universal fans. Autozone shows they have them for $60. I'm hoping this is a cheap slim fan and they have one at a location on my way home tonight.
If I can keep the engine cool, I can live with non-intercooled for a weekend so I can make it to the rally.
Even so, I would like to have a front mount on the car and enjoy a little boost as a reward for all this hard work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
If I can keep the engine cool, I can live with non-intercooled for a weekend so I can make it to the rally.
Even so, I would like to have a front mount on the car and enjoy a little boost as a reward for all this hard work. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
DR1665
Well-known member
Local buddy just called that he's got a slim, 16" fan taking up space in his garage. He might need it for his 1G project which begins soon, but he's willing to let me use it until I can find something ideal, order it, and have it arrive. Very cool.
Tonight, 195 should be completed.
Tonight, 195 should be completed.
Awesome dude! I don't have a fan I could lend you though. Even still, with one fan on there the car will be fine as long as you aren't using the ac. Hardwire it up and then focus on the IC pipes to the IC.
DR1665
Well-known member
This is getting good! So I'm picking up the 16"er from one friend to get me by until I can source another one. Well, I shot an email over to my former boss at Motorweb.com to see how long it would take him to get me one. Turns out they actually had one on the shelf! He's taking it home tonight and I'm buying it for $30 cash. (12" Maradyne reversible)
Now that I have the cooling issue under control, all I have to do is get that damn intercooler mounted and plumbed tonight before I cap 4WS lines and install a CD player. That's it.
It's going to be a late night, but f***ing a. I want this car done tonight. I'll see about posting a picture of 195/2000 next to a GVR4 rally car tomorrow...
Now that I have the cooling issue under control, all I have to do is get that damn intercooler mounted and plumbed tonight before I cap 4WS lines and install a CD player. That's it.
It's going to be a late night, but f***ing a. I want this car done tonight. I'll see about posting a picture of 195/2000 next to a GVR4 rally car tomorrow...
DR1665
Well-known member
Jumping online to do a quick search for pin outs on fan connectors. One has 4 conductors, the other has f***ing 6. I know this has to do with the resistors that control multi-speed operation, but I want full on when on.
Turns out the 12" Maradyne fan I got is too wide to fit on the radiator as a puller without affecting FMIC clearance, so it's going to be a pusher until I can pick up a 10"er down the road.
Once I have the fans wired, it's the long, nervous idle test to make sure it holds temperature. If it does, then I take a test drive. If it tracks okay and there's no sketchy shakes or shimmies, then I'm going to tackle the intercooler plumbing. If the car has alignment or tracking issues, then there's no way I can take it on the highway up a mountain in 12 hours. Down to the wire. Hail Mary.
Turns out the 12" Maradyne fan I got is too wide to fit on the radiator as a puller without affecting FMIC clearance, so it's going to be a pusher until I can pick up a 10"er down the road.
Once I have the fans wired, it's the long, nervous idle test to make sure it holds temperature. If it does, then I take a test drive. If it tracks okay and there's no sketchy shakes or shimmies, then I'm going to tackle the intercooler plumbing. If the car has alignment or tracking issues, then there's no way I can take it on the highway up a mountain in 12 hours. Down to the wire. Hail Mary.
strokin4dr
Well-known member
Awesome progress. I hope it works out in time, but even if it doesnt all come together for this weekend's event, you've one hell of a job piecing that cat back together.
DR1665
Well-known member
And it all falls apart at the last minute. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Fans are installed. The car has to maintain temperature above all else (it's still touching 100* here right now). It's not worth staying up later to plumb the IC with radiator hose, or crawl under the car to cap the 4WS lines, or even install the CD player. If I can't get the goddamned fans to come on, I'm SOL.
RADIATOR FAN WIRING (Maybe the search will find this thread in the future and save someone else the headache.)
I'm not using GVR4 fans. I have one 1G DSM puller (sans resistor pack from the factory) and one Maradyne 12" pusher. Maybe someone has a manual with a schematic can shed some light on this subject for me so I can at least finish the car up Sunday, when I'm back from the rally...
All tests performed with key in ON position and AC on high (green light, fan on low). Both fans function when jumped to battery.
DRIVERS SIDE:
FAN = 1-blue, 1-black
CAR = 1-bl/bk (larger), 1-bk/w (larger), 1-bl/r (smaller), 1-bk/r (smaller)
* I suspected the smaller two should be jumped together, as they probably represent the resistor on the OEM fan. Regardless, jumped together or not, I was unable to get anything more than a few mV on the meter.
PASSENGER SIDE:
FAN = 1-bk (larger), 1-bl (larger), 1-bk (smaller), 1-grn (smaller)
CAR (clusterfuck) = 1-bl/bk (larger), 1-bl/w (larger), 1-bk/r (smaller), 1-bl/r (smaller), 1-grn/bk/r (smaller), 1-bk
* Yeah. f*** that. The smaller two on the fan side are obviously the temp sensor in the radiator. Tried any number of combinations and again, nothing buy a few mV at the meter. Jumping across any combination to fan never ran the fan.
I suspect that the larger conductors are the carriers of the big juice for the fans, but without any schematic to consult, I'm dicking around in the dark here. I know I could hardwire the fans to a relay and a switch into the cabin, but I have enough other stuff to do on the car to legitimately get it ready than to be on my back, running wires through the firewall for some hack-ass fix.
Just really disappointing to get this far and have something as ridiculous as fan wiring ruin it all. I'm going to push it all back up in the garage so I can close the door and take the Swedish Dumpster to Circle K for a pack of much needed smokes. Then I'm going to bed. I've got a rally car to service tomorrow.
Thanks for the support, gents. It's not over yet. This project has just run into a delay. Sucks because this is the end of my get-it-to-the-rally motivations. Now it's just get-out-of-driving-a-crappy-Volvo-station-wagon variety. (sigh) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Fans are installed. The car has to maintain temperature above all else (it's still touching 100* here right now). It's not worth staying up later to plumb the IC with radiator hose, or crawl under the car to cap the 4WS lines, or even install the CD player. If I can't get the goddamned fans to come on, I'm SOL.
RADIATOR FAN WIRING (Maybe the search will find this thread in the future and save someone else the headache.)
I'm not using GVR4 fans. I have one 1G DSM puller (sans resistor pack from the factory) and one Maradyne 12" pusher. Maybe someone has a manual with a schematic can shed some light on this subject for me so I can at least finish the car up Sunday, when I'm back from the rally...
All tests performed with key in ON position and AC on high (green light, fan on low). Both fans function when jumped to battery.
DRIVERS SIDE:
FAN = 1-blue, 1-black
CAR = 1-bl/bk (larger), 1-bk/w (larger), 1-bl/r (smaller), 1-bk/r (smaller)
* I suspected the smaller two should be jumped together, as they probably represent the resistor on the OEM fan. Regardless, jumped together or not, I was unable to get anything more than a few mV on the meter.
PASSENGER SIDE:
FAN = 1-bk (larger), 1-bl (larger), 1-bk (smaller), 1-grn (smaller)
CAR (clusterfuck) = 1-bl/bk (larger), 1-bl/w (larger), 1-bk/r (smaller), 1-bl/r (smaller), 1-grn/bk/r (smaller), 1-bk
* Yeah. f*** that. The smaller two on the fan side are obviously the temp sensor in the radiator. Tried any number of combinations and again, nothing buy a few mV at the meter. Jumping across any combination to fan never ran the fan.
I suspect that the larger conductors are the carriers of the big juice for the fans, but without any schematic to consult, I'm dicking around in the dark here. I know I could hardwire the fans to a relay and a switch into the cabin, but I have enough other stuff to do on the car to legitimately get it ready than to be on my back, running wires through the firewall for some hack-ass fix.
Just really disappointing to get this far and have something as ridiculous as fan wiring ruin it all. I'm going to push it all back up in the garage so I can close the door and take the Swedish Dumpster to Circle K for a pack of much needed smokes. Then I'm going to bed. I've got a rally car to service tomorrow.
Thanks for the support, gents. It's not over yet. This project has just run into a delay. Sucks because this is the end of my get-it-to-the-rally motivations. Now it's just get-out-of-driving-a-crappy-Volvo-station-wagon variety. (sigh) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
What I did.
I have a decent Digital Multi Meter, I unplugged the fan harness and set it to probe 2 wires. I then grounded the ecu temp sensor plug so the ECU would think the car was overheated and kick the fans on. Then I checked each combination of wires until I found the 12v. Then pull the ground from the ecu temp sensor and make sure you lose power, Voila done. Well not done but then you know which you need, cut all that resistor crap off the fans. It isn't need and they go bad. Just connect the 12v you find at the harness right to the wires coming out of the fan motor. Just make sure you get the polarity right so it spins the correct way. And yes the smaller wires on the fan harness are for the sensor at the bottom of the radiator.
I have a decent Digital Multi Meter, I unplugged the fan harness and set it to probe 2 wires. I then grounded the ecu temp sensor plug so the ECU would think the car was overheated and kick the fans on. Then I checked each combination of wires until I found the 12v. Then pull the ground from the ecu temp sensor and make sure you lose power, Voila done. Well not done but then you know which you need, cut all that resistor crap off the fans. It isn't need and they go bad. Just connect the 12v you find at the harness right to the wires coming out of the fan motor. Just make sure you get the polarity right so it spins the correct way. And yes the smaller wires on the fan harness are for the sensor at the bottom of the radiator.
DR1665
Well-known member
That was exactly my line of thinking, sir. The trick comes in knowing which of the six leads on the harness end of things on that main, PS fan need to be jumpered together to bypass the temp sensor. I assumed that, since the leads for the sensor connector on the fan side were smaller gauge, it had to be some combination of the four smaller leads on the harness side. I could never pull down 12VDC anywhere. Likewise on the DS fan, which should have been simpler, given two larger and two smaller wires. Same thing. With the AC on, both fans should come on, regardless of temp imo. Of course, that could just be a throwback to my DSM days...
Hopefully I'll run into PreskitVR4 when I'm up in Preskit this afternoon and can make some notes of pin out on his stock fan set up.
Hopefully I'll run into PreskitVR4 when I'm up in Preskit this afternoon and can make some notes of pin out on his stock fan set up.
I'm not gonna make it up there this weekend and for all the effort you've put in I should just let you take my car...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
ScreaminE
Well-known member
Congrats on all the work.
You look like a member of the Texas Highway Patrol aka the boys in black and white.
You look like a member of the Texas Highway Patrol aka the boys in black and white.
DR1665
Well-known member
Just got home. Got a couple leads on schematics for the Galant this weekend. Also got a very serious deal on a near mint 99% stock, never molested, flawless interior, keychain-bage-still-having 92. Seller is a long time Mitsubishi rally guy, who wants the car to go to a good home. Told me I have second dibs after another local rally Galant buddy makes his decision (who already has three of them, along with an Evo III).
Should be back out in the garage this evening to see what I can do about those fans. Fans, IC plumbing, 4WS caps and it's done.
Should be back out in the garage this evening to see what I can do about those fans. Fans, IC plumbing, 4WS caps and it's done.
DR1665
Well-known member
Oh and, by the way, Dale (PreskitVR4) very seriously needs to post pictures of his Galant. It's f***ing bad ass.
(Good to see you yesterday, Dave.)
(Good to see you yesterday, Dave.)
Sick, wish I would've gone, if anything just to hang out and talk to fellow mitsu fans.
DR1665
Well-known member
Got schematics. Looks like they were hand-drawn or something. Ugh. I know which ones go to the fan motors, now, so it's just a question of properly jumpering the others together to get them to run.
DR1665
Well-known member
SOLUTION TO THE FAN ISSUE!
EDIT: Adding comments about radiator fan wiring for future searchability. This set up uses 1G DSM puller radiator fan without the large, white resistor to allow multi-speed operation and an aftermarket pusher fan on the AC side which only comes with (2) wires.
Condenser fan (driver's side):
- (from fan) = larger blue (+) to larger blue w/ black stripe
- (from fan) = larger black (-) to larger black w/ white stripe
- (on car side) = jumper remaining (2) smaller wires together. These two are blue w/ red bands and black w/ red. bands. (Would ordinarily run to resistor pack. Bypassing them has the fan run full speed all the time.)
Radiator fan (passenger side):
- (from fan) = larger blue (+) to larger blue w/ white stripe
- (from fan) = larger black (-) to larger blue w/ black stripe
- (from fan) = smaller green to smaller green w/ black stripe (part of the temp sensor in radiator)
- (from fan) = smaller black to smaller black (part of the temp sensor in radiator)
- (on car) = smaller blue w/ red bands to smaller black w/ red bands (resistor pack, low speed)
195 didn't make it to Prescott this weekend, but maybe, just maybe, the beast will brave rush hour traffic in the morning for the drive to work. I'll post pics when I'm done tonight. Wo0t!
EDIT: Adding comments about radiator fan wiring for future searchability. This set up uses 1G DSM puller radiator fan without the large, white resistor to allow multi-speed operation and an aftermarket pusher fan on the AC side which only comes with (2) wires.
Condenser fan (driver's side):
- (from fan) = larger blue (+) to larger blue w/ black stripe
- (from fan) = larger black (-) to larger black w/ white stripe
- (on car side) = jumper remaining (2) smaller wires together. These two are blue w/ red bands and black w/ red. bands. (Would ordinarily run to resistor pack. Bypassing them has the fan run full speed all the time.)
Radiator fan (passenger side):
- (from fan) = larger blue (+) to larger blue w/ white stripe
- (from fan) = larger black (-) to larger blue w/ black stripe
- (from fan) = smaller green to smaller green w/ black stripe (part of the temp sensor in radiator)
- (from fan) = smaller black to smaller black (part of the temp sensor in radiator)
- (on car) = smaller blue w/ red bands to smaller black w/ red bands (resistor pack, low speed)
195 didn't make it to Prescott this weekend, but maybe, just maybe, the beast will brave rush hour traffic in the morning for the drive to work. I'll post pics when I'm done tonight. Wo0t!
Last edited:
CarRacer
Well-known member
That's awesome news. Glad you figured it out. I think you brought one back from the dead. Although, the possible car you found sounds great as well.
Have you considered a job in the health industry? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Have you considered a job in the health industry? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
DR1665
Well-known member
Tanks, James! I've thought about the healthcare industry, but I think the way I'm always messing up this or that on the path to recovery would mean a lot of malpractice suits.
Good news, though. Got both fans working as they should. Took the car for a spin and temps hold just fine. Noticed the front DS axle clicking and was pissed. "After all this work, I'm going to have to fix something right away? How does an axle wear out when the damn car's been parked for eight month?" Then I remembered I was on my way to Autozone to buy a new axle when shitass made that left.
Tomorrow night I'm going to tackle the intercooler plumbing and doing a final button up. I'm looking forward to some well-deserved boost.
Good news, though. Got both fans working as they should. Took the car for a spin and temps hold just fine. Noticed the front DS axle clicking and was pissed. "After all this work, I'm going to have to fix something right away? How does an axle wear out when the damn car's been parked for eight month?" Then I remembered I was on my way to Autozone to buy a new axle when shitass made that left.
Tomorrow night I'm going to tackle the intercooler plumbing and doing a final button up. I'm looking forward to some well-deserved boost.
