TH3 Lazy arse Australian / New Zealand Picture build thread

[VR42LT]

Thanks guys /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Razza didnt tell me anything like what you guys are talking bout but then again i didnt ask either. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

And Baz i dont know the numbers on the box as it is in Sydney but i can find out, what will the numbers tell me?

 

[ozyvr4]

Great updates guys, This turning into a great thread. Its great to see all these great AU & NZ cars.

 

[bazeng]

Quoting VR42LT:
Thanks guys /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Razza didnt tell me anything like what you guys are talking bout but then again i didnt ask either. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

And Baz i dont know the numbers on the box as it is in Sydney but i can find out, what will the numbers tell me?



It'll basically tell ya what ratio and also if it is LSD or not.

 

[VR42LT]

Quoting bazeng:
Exactly as expressed above.

The only possible differences would be the optional - front viscous diff and rear diff may possibly be open.


What numbers are on the gearbox?



Here are the numbers Baz first set are W5M332WQNK and the second set are LN9452. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[fuel]

that's an Evolution box - 3.909 ratios close 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th but a gap to 5th. Should have no front LSD.

 

[bazeng]

Same box that I have.

One came out of a monte carlo (no lsd)
The second one I have (broken one) I purchased from a wrecker, so I don't know where it came from (also no lsd).

I'd personally open it up and get it detailed and rebuilt before putting it in.

With the amount of power you'll be making, you'd want to make it as strong as possible. Spend that extra dosh to increase the longevity of the box because they are getting hard to find.

Otherwise a dogbox will set you back around 5k-10k for a PAR / PPG box.
It'll probably cost you about 2k-3k to prep your box to suit your needs.

 

[VR42LT]

So are these the best of the standard boxes? No LSD is that a good thing? And Baz you said something about prepping the box? I have had it stripped down and checked and put back together, I havnt got the coin for a dog box yet so is there anything else i can do besides sending it to sheps?

Thanks for all your help guys. (Bazeng & HO5TYL)

 

[H05TYL]

A front lsd would be nice, but they are a really rare option in galants. With a 3.909 box you have the option of fitting a slightly more common viscous front lsd from an Evo. (the viscous front lsd's use a different ring gear, so you can't change them to 3.545 ratio unless you can find the right ring gear, and they are super rare).

If your making lots of power you'll want a 4-spider centre diff (or a welded one). Ignore the factory clearances and set each shaft (except for the front diff) with a slight preload (rather than end float) and it's worth taking the time to deburr and remove the machining marks from 4th gear (which is undercut and usually the first to break).

 

[bazeng]

Shep / TRE / TZ / Jacks would be the go but freight is a killer!!

There are some local guys who are starting to prep these boxes now by deburring all gears / shot peening and isotropic treating the gearsets.

You really should get the box prepped if you want it to last. My VR4 RS box is now broken.... who knows what else is stuffed in there... It has a front kaaz lsd/locked centre with factory gearset which has just been pulled and inspected + freshened up.

The best box to use would be an EVO box. Evo3 ideally. I say just do your box, if you want some contacts, let me know and I can pass you on to them.

 

[RedTwo]

Geeze, moving house and running around all day really stops me getting online.
Must do this in a hurry before they shut off the internet again /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
Should get my ADSL modem today so I can start doing things propperly /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

News:
Have driven the car!
Found and fixed the PS/4WS leak. I left the threaded ends under the car on the rack and plugged them with 2 screw on caps from Hydraulink, rather than using sump plugs on the rack which most people do.
Hand break is sorted now, nice and tight and really easy to set up /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Suspension/wheel alignment - completely off the chart. It doesn't drive too straight and I get random guard rub on the rear which could be one or more of the wheel alignment, poor fitting/not hub centric of the GT-R wheels, or the 'active toe' that comes with a 4WS delete.
Brakes seem to be loosing pressure over time so have a leak?

Have tried some Advan RGII 17x8.5 with +31 offset (which seems to be an Advan speciality) and, with the GTO/3000GT swap, they will not fit on the rears without grinding the trailing arm. It was pretty tight to fit them under the guards even with 225 tyres! Too bad, they looked pretty awesome and were super light. So I've picked up some Evo 9 wheels which are still sweet /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Anyone else with 8" wide wheels had issues with their steering? My tyres are clearly rubbing on the inside wheel well/body at full lock, that's 16x8 ~ +28 offset so it can only be worse with 17 or bigger wheels.

Fuel, I'm down in Chch. I don't think I will do justice to your museum piece

 

[bazeng]

I just got my twin plate discs to suit the new DOG BOX!!

EVO7 input shaft vs VR4 input shaft

 

[H05TYL]

Quoting RedTwo:

Anyone else with 8" wide wheels had issues with their steering? My tyres are clearly rubbing on the inside wheel well/body at full lock, that's 16x8 ~ +28 offset so it can only be worse with 17 or bigger wheels.

Fuel, I'm down in Chch. I don't think I will do justice to your museum piece



That's odd, I've got 18x9 +30's with 235/40's and no rubbing at full lock (I think the tire just touches the plastic cover over the gearbox end casing).

What size tires are you running?

 

[bazeng]

I'm running 225-40-17's with evo V rims (17x7.5)and they clear.

I'm about change over the tyres onto new rims (17.8)... They should be fine also

Now I have a question for some of you guys, I've got some 18x7.5 inch rims with about a -35 offset I believe.
Will 235-35-R18's fit and clear???

 

[RedTwo]

They're either 225/45R16 or 225/50R16. I assume it's from this new set up because I haven't noticed it before - I'll have to take a photo of the patches I've rubbed down to the bare metal with the forward edge of the tyres just from 4x 3 point turns/U-turns.

*grumble grumble* one of the Evo 9 wheels may be buckled /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Baz, have you run a twin plate before? How drivable/nose to tail 5pm traffic drivable are they?

 

[cheekychimp]

Driveability on twin plate clutches varies in my opinion. The Greddy twin plate I had in my 8G VR4 was the biggest PITA mod I ever did to the car and I cursed it daily. That said, it wasn't THAT bad in stop and go traffic on the flat and I could live with it. What made it unbearable was the inability to slip it on the slightest slope. Here in Hong Kong 80% of the car park ticket barriers are placed ON the ramps out of the car parks and the inclines are ridiculous. To make it worse the Mercedez Benz waiting behind was always 6" off the rear bumper. God I hated that clutch.

Now in contrast, the carbon twin plate is very liveable, but stupidly expensive! I really think that this clutch with the 2G accumulator mod will prove to be extremely streetable whilst holding a lot of power.

What power levels are you looking at Red? I looked around recently for a relatively lightweight single plate clutch that could handle everything an EVO III 16G could throw at it, and it looks like about 500 ft/lbs torque can be held using kevlar disks on PP only slightly heavier than stock. Once you get over that figure you start to need a really heavy PP on a single plate or you need pucks rather than full face disks. Some people say pucks are as hard to drive as multiplates, others seem to get on okay with them.

 

[bazeng]

Quoting RedTwo:
They're either 225/45R16 or 225/50R16. I assume it's from this new set up because I haven't noticed it before - I'll have to take a photo of the patches I've rubbed down to the bare metal with the forward edge of the tyres just from 4x 3 point turns/U-turns.

*grumble grumble* one of the Evo 9 wheels may be buckled /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Baz, have you run a twin plate before? How drivable/nose to tail 5pm traffic drivable are they?



I can honestly say that the twin plates I use (DIRECT CLUTCH SERVICES) is very very good. Very light on the pedal and is slippable yet doesn't slip during shifts and has held 350kw's at the wheels without any issues.

The only annoying thing about it is the noise it makes with the clutch in. That is about all! I highly recommend it. I have been put of single plates simply because of the increased pressure on the pressure plate which means increased wear on the thrust bearing (crank).

I've heard good things about the quarter master twin plates also and with the price, you can't go wrong!

 

[H05TYL]

Quartermasters are great for drag and/or race cars - good price and take a shed load of abuse with ease.

However, driveability isn't good at all - A mate of mines got one in his R32 GTR and it's just plain nasty - even compared to a 3 puck single plate with a much heavier pedal effort.

 

[bazeng]

I've never experienced one but Tim (BRISVR4) has good things to say about it.

But I personally love my Direct Clutch twin plate..

 

[brisvr4]

Yep, I've got a Quartermaster in mine and I'd have to say that it is actually pretty nice to drive.
I was a bit worried when I first got it due to the horror stories that I've read but it's not that different to the Clutchnet unit that I had previously.
That said, I don't think I'd like to sit in stop start traffic for an hour every day with it! That would become a tad annoying.

 

[RedTwo]

That's some pretty useful responses. It seems horror stories are often the loudest ones!

One problem solved? - it would appear that the rubbing is not the tires but the steel wheel style wheel weights on the inside of the wheel! The lead is getting nicely smoothed down on the edge closest to the metal 'clip' that holds it to the wheel. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif