faqinshiet
Well-known member
Amazing work!!
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BENE38A
Well-known member
nice!, engine bay looks extremely tidy mate.
GSX_TC
Well-known member
Love what you did with the relocation and the smaller fusible link box.
CutlassJim
Well-known member
1G throttle body elbow? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
strokin4dr
Well-known member
I was curious about that too. With the attention to detail seen on just about every other aspect of the car, I figured it had to be a temporary solution. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
As of now, the 1G TB elbow is going to stay because I'm still utilizing the stock IC pipes.
I went to pull the fuel pump and drop in my Walbro 255 today. Luckily all the little 8mm bolts came loose, but the fuel line didn't go so easily. I twisted the line right off. The other side attached to the car was much better though, and came off just fine. The hanger looks like complete sh*t, and I'll be on the hunt for a new one. FML.
I went to pull the fuel pump and drop in my Walbro 255 today. Luckily all the little 8mm bolts came loose, but the fuel line didn't go so easily. I twisted the line right off. The other side attached to the car was much better though, and came off just fine. The hanger looks like complete sh*t, and I'll be on the hunt for a new one. FML.
ApexHunter
Well-known member
^^^^ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/barf.gif
Those JICs sure did come out nice though!!
Those JICs sure did come out nice though!!
coyotes
Well-known member
car looks great, you have put a lot of hard work into it.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Thanks to everyone for the compliments on the car. I can finally see some light at the end of the tunnel. It seems like every time I think I'm wrapping up though, I find something else that bothers me and needs attention. The latest issue is with my fuel pump. The hanger has seen better days. I'm on a really tight budget right now, so I decided to see what I could do with the pump hanger I already have.
Started with this:
Then turned it into this:
Because the hanger was in such crappy shape, I had to strip the entire thing. That included the hot terminals that go through the hanger body. Basically, you have a small plastic grommet (pictured top) that insulates the brass terminal that goes through the hanger body. Then, they seal up the top of the terminal with epoxy. There's no way to remove this stuff so it can be reused, so it has to be replaced with something.
I'll be using nylon hardware as insulators, and some stainless bolts as terminals. Grabbed some small rubber washers to seal everything up.
Drill a hole in the center for the terminals.
Screw the stainless bolt into the center of the nylon bolt and then cut off the bolt head. It's easier to use a bolt and then cut off the head. Threaded rod would be a pain to thread into the nylon without a bolt head.
Thread the nylon bolts into the pump hanger, and install the rubber washers.
Then install the nylon washers to pull them down with the nylon nuts. Put a set of nuts on each side of the terminals. Lastly, install a new ground post and you're good to go.
I still need to install a -6AN fitting for the pump feed. I have a weld in fitting on the way. After I get it installed, I'll paint the body with Rust Bullet and seal it up. I'll throw my Walbro 255 on the hanger and should be good to go. I'm on the fence about whether I want to drop my fuel tank and recondition it. It looked ok, but maybe I should just be preemptive since I already have everything apart. Feedback and criticism is welcome.
Started with this:
Then turned it into this:
Because the hanger was in such crappy shape, I had to strip the entire thing. That included the hot terminals that go through the hanger body. Basically, you have a small plastic grommet (pictured top) that insulates the brass terminal that goes through the hanger body. Then, they seal up the top of the terminal with epoxy. There's no way to remove this stuff so it can be reused, so it has to be replaced with something.
I'll be using nylon hardware as insulators, and some stainless bolts as terminals. Grabbed some small rubber washers to seal everything up.
Drill a hole in the center for the terminals.
Screw the stainless bolt into the center of the nylon bolt and then cut off the bolt head. It's easier to use a bolt and then cut off the head. Threaded rod would be a pain to thread into the nylon without a bolt head.
Thread the nylon bolts into the pump hanger, and install the rubber washers.
Then install the nylon washers to pull them down with the nylon nuts. Put a set of nuts on each side of the terminals. Lastly, install a new ground post and you're good to go.
I still need to install a -6AN fitting for the pump feed. I have a weld in fitting on the way. After I get it installed, I'll paint the body with Rust Bullet and seal it up. I'll throw my Walbro 255 on the hanger and should be good to go. I'm on the fence about whether I want to drop my fuel tank and recondition it. It looked ok, but maybe I should just be preemptive since I already have everything apart. Feedback and criticism is welcome.
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CutlassJim
Well-known member
Genius!
transparentdsm
Well-known member
ugggh i love your car!!!!
BENE38A
Well-known member
Nice mate, great solution to the problem. How do they get so rusty? Spoiler holes leak in water or something
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Honestly, I'm not sure how the sending units always get so rusty. My fuel tank looks pretty good in comparison. I think the coating that Mitsubishi puts on the hanger body is just shitty, and makes it susceptible to corrosion. The trunk area isn't leaking, it's just that the top of the fuel tank is exposed to the elements just the same as the undercarriage. The pump access cover only seals the trunk from the elements. It doesn't do anything to keep the pump hanger from the outside.
KiNgMaRtY
Well-known member
The JIC's came out great all cleaned up. You will be very pleased with them. I have a set on a 2g GSX in the past that were Muellerized.
ApexHunter
Well-known member
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif Dude, nice engineering job on that hanger.
Is the current condition of the tank up to your standards?
Is the current condition of the tank up to your standards?
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Thanks for the positive feedback, guys. I put up a WTB ad for a new hanger, and then started thinking about my other options. The biggest problem I was facing with was dealing with the terminals going through the pump hanger. I looked around online for ideas and found these:
The problem with these is number one, they are like 10 bucks a piece (and you need 3) and two, they require 1 1/4" hole (too big to insert 3 of them in the pump hanger). I started trying to think of ways and materials I could substitute with, and came up with what you see above. The hardware cost me under $10 bucks at a local Ace Hardware store, so the stuff to do this is readily available for anyone. I hope this helps someone else faced with a similar situation. To finish up, you just need to insert a fitting to hook up the pump. That can be easily accomplished any number of ways; from welding in a new -AN fitting to tapping the hanger and using a bolt in fitting.
David, my fuel tank isn't really up to my standards. The inside is spotless, but the outside has a few little surface rust spots. It's definitely in passable condition, but rusty crap only gets worse over time. If I take care of it now, it will be much easier than dealing with a potential problem down the road. Couple that with the fact that GVR4 fuel tanks in good shape are pretty much impossible to get and I think my only choice is to drop it to recondition the exterior.
The problem with these is number one, they are like 10 bucks a piece (and you need 3) and two, they require 1 1/4" hole (too big to insert 3 of them in the pump hanger). I started trying to think of ways and materials I could substitute with, and came up with what you see above. The hardware cost me under $10 bucks at a local Ace Hardware store, so the stuff to do this is readily available for anyone. I hope this helps someone else faced with a similar situation. To finish up, you just need to insert a fitting to hook up the pump. That can be easily accomplished any number of ways; from welding in a new -AN fitting to tapping the hanger and using a bolt in fitting.
David, my fuel tank isn't really up to my standards. The inside is spotless, but the outside has a few little surface rust spots. It's definitely in passable condition, but rusty crap only gets worse over time. If I take care of it now, it will be much easier than dealing with a potential problem down the road. Couple that with the fact that GVR4 fuel tanks in good shape are pretty much impossible to get and I think my only choice is to drop it to recondition the exterior.
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GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Well, spent the whole day working on the sh*t bucket. Enjoy!
Welded my -6AN fitting to the sender. It turned out better than I expected, seeing as I'm using a cheap gasless MIG welder. I can't complain though, that thing always seems to get the job it done.
I Sealed it up with Rust Bullet. Now I just need to wait 24 hours before applying the top coat. After that, just need to assemble and drop it back in the tank.
Here's my poopy fuel tank. This was right after I pulled it from the car, but it was in pretty good shape overall. Most of the damage was just surface rust on the exterior. For some reason, the corrosion from the fuel hanger carried over to the tank, and that screwed sh*t all up. The inside is pristine though, so I ain't even mad. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Here it is after a few beers and some cleaning...
And after a few coats of Rust Bullet.
Mother of God, more parts that look like poop.
Aaaaaaand without the poop.
Suck it, G. The rear of the car is rust free despite the crappy looking fuel tank. I'm still gonna give it the Rust Bullet treatment just like I did the wheel wells, though. I contemplated dropping the rear subframe to restore it, but wasn't man enough to pull the trigger. Maybe another day...
Welded my -6AN fitting to the sender. It turned out better than I expected, seeing as I'm using a cheap gasless MIG welder. I can't complain though, that thing always seems to get the job it done.
I Sealed it up with Rust Bullet. Now I just need to wait 24 hours before applying the top coat. After that, just need to assemble and drop it back in the tank.
Here's my poopy fuel tank. This was right after I pulled it from the car, but it was in pretty good shape overall. Most of the damage was just surface rust on the exterior. For some reason, the corrosion from the fuel hanger carried over to the tank, and that screwed sh*t all up. The inside is pristine though, so I ain't even mad. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Here it is after a few beers and some cleaning...
And after a few coats of Rust Bullet.
Mother of God, more parts that look like poop.
Aaaaaaand without the poop.
Suck it, G. The rear of the car is rust free despite the crappy looking fuel tank. I'm still gonna give it the Rust Bullet treatment just like I did the wheel wells, though. I contemplated dropping the rear subframe to restore it, but wasn't man enough to pull the trigger. Maybe another day...
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
I finished up all the fuel system components over the week. Here's how everything turned out:
Reconditioned hanger and Walbro 255 installed.
Rust proofed fuel tank.
And a new Mitsu OEM filter to finish things off for the fuel system.
Lastly, the new intercooler going on the car.
Reconditioned hanger and Walbro 255 installed.
Rust proofed fuel tank.
And a new Mitsu OEM filter to finish things off for the fuel system.
Lastly, the new intercooler going on the car.
turbowop
Well-known member
Everything is turning out great, dude. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
I'm still surprised by the amount of surface rust on a lot of the underside components for this being a Cali car. I mean, I drove 503 for several winters skiing while I owned it as did the previous owners. Not a hint of rust on anything underneath. I mean nothing, not even bolt heads. I wonder if that thing was somewhere else before it's life in California.
I'm still surprised by the amount of surface rust on a lot of the underside components for this being a Cali car. I mean, I drove 503 for several winters skiing while I owned it as did the previous owners. Not a hint of rust on anything underneath. I mean nothing, not even bolt heads. I wonder if that thing was somewhere else before it's life in California.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Thanks for the kind words, Mark.
The car spent some time in Utah, and Ohio, if my memory serves me correctly. I had a Carfax report pulled, but for the life of me I can seem to find where I dumped it on my computer. Suffice it to say, it wasn't a Cali car for most of it's life. As of now, the only thing that has a hint of rust left on it are some of the rear subframe components. I contemplated dropping the rear end and redoing everything, but I don't really have the time or money right now. I'd like to find a clean 4 bolt DSM subframe and just do a 1 for 1 swap, eliminating the 4WS and all the other BS. If it were in really crappy shape I'd have no choice, but everything is functioning good without any leaks so I'm going to leave it be. I've torn into the car way deeper than I had ever planned on from the start. I'm satisfied with the restoration up to this point, as I think I have hit all the major areas I felt needed immediate attention. At this point, I need to start getting everything back together if I have any hopes of making it to the shootout.
The car spent some time in Utah, and Ohio, if my memory serves me correctly. I had a Carfax report pulled, but for the life of me I can seem to find where I dumped it on my computer. Suffice it to say, it wasn't a Cali car for most of it's life. As of now, the only thing that has a hint of rust left on it are some of the rear subframe components. I contemplated dropping the rear end and redoing everything, but I don't really have the time or money right now. I'd like to find a clean 4 bolt DSM subframe and just do a 1 for 1 swap, eliminating the 4WS and all the other BS. If it were in really crappy shape I'd have no choice, but everything is functioning good without any leaks so I'm going to leave it be. I've torn into the car way deeper than I had ever planned on from the start. I'm satisfied with the restoration up to this point, as I think I have hit all the major areas I felt needed immediate attention. At this point, I need to start getting everything back together if I have any hopes of making it to the shootout.
