Install 264's, new lifters - can not get car to idle

puhhleeease...haha.

and yes plugs look fine, we changed them anyways figuring the race fuel fouled them out, no change.

 

[CarRacer]

I think multiple people were under the impression the car had an aftermarket tuning setup not a chip.

If you've tried everything, it's probably smart to file this issue under the 'you get what you pay for' category regardless of the part brand. He was given the cams, correct?

 

Im pretty sure i mentioned it had a DSMchip previously, doesnt matter either way at this point.

and no, cams were bought for cheap from my buddy Curt. They are genuine HKS 264 cams that were barely used.

 

[turbowop]

Even with a DSMchip, I still use an SAFC to do fine adjustments on my 2gMaf car and the Maftpro to adjust the tune on my speed density car.

 

Yeah were using an AFC with it as well.

 

[jepherz]

5 + x = y

Solve for x.

Exactly.

you CAN tune the TABLES with the CAS way out of whack. That does nothing for your closed loop timing, however. And as soon as you bump your CAS, any tuning you DID do, is all irrelevant. I, for one, do not have the time to tune my car every time I bump my CAS...

Why is this even an argument? Let whoever wants to not set their CAS the proper way do what they want. Luckily, I'm nowhere near SBR, so I'll have to do my own work on my car /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

Im not really sure why everyones saying this as if im speaking on behalf of SBR... i made it very clear my methods had no reflect on SBR's methods, especially when im in PA and the rest of the shop is in FL.

Its MY way, not Slowboys way. I just want to make that clear again just for the record.

I also made it clear that i will start doing this from now on just to make my life easier on installs...so the argument stopped about 2 pages ago LOL.

 

[atc250r]

First thing's first. Did you unplug any devices plugged into the diagnostic port when you grounded the timing pin under the hood? If you didn't then you didn't set the base timing.

If the car has a KD chip and runs like crap with the timing set at the correct place then there is something else wrong. I still stand by my original statement that the timing needs to be checked. It doesn't necessarily mean that you can't run more or less base timing than what the factory calls for (within reason), simply that you should know where the base timing is at when you're tuning. If you don't, then if you start to see knock you don't know if its caused by too much timing or too lean of a mixture, or a little of both.

 

I had nothing plugged into the diagnostic port when i did it.

And of course it ran worse when i set the base timing at 5 because it was advanced more than that before. So when it was slower, i said EFF it and i advanced it till it didnt like it then went back a few. The chip is burned for 93 octane. Were running 115. Its considerably faster the way i set it, and with zero knock, so i really dont care to discuss the whos and whys about the timing.

However, Im sending the chip back to Jeff to put dual image maps on it so we can select 93 or 115 maps suited to how i want them. THEN, i will set the base timing back to 5 degrees since both maps will be where i want them at any given time, and we will be golden. Until then, its staying at whatever advance its at now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[atc250r]

I'm going to have to tap out.

 

[turbowop]

115 octane, huh? Gee, I wonder why the car felt faster when you cranked the CAS clockwise. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Not that it would do anything for the idle issue, but obviously if you're running race fuel, and you advance the ignition timing a whole bunch via the CAS, it's going to make more power than it would at the normal 5 degrees.

 

Hence the reasoning i didnt care about the base timing in the first place! HAHA

I mentioned the fuel way back! haha noone seems to catch what i explained the first time LOL.

Once the maps are made to my specs though, its going back to 5 degrees since Jeff bases the timing maps off 5 degrees advanced base idle. The war is over.

 

[sleepyvr4]

Quoting NateCrisman:
Seems like having an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and no fuel pressure gauge. It's adjustable and "who cares what it actually is set to" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif




Yeah you're right Nate.

Surprisingly the thing runs fine and has gotten me 210 miles and just reached the half tank mark, in mixed driving. That's been my first good surprise. Thanks for the chip Jeff. I never did this well with the galant, but hey - it was 500lbs heavier. Either that or I guess the afpr and gauge I had on it were hurting the mileage lol. Maybe the HP Walbro is an advantage over the Supra pump. Either way I'll post when it gets through the whole tank. I'm projecting 350+

Also - after driving it this far the car has just decided to idle on its own. I haven't changed anything at all.

Glad this thread is still going strong though...

 

Who woulda thunk it.... against all laws based on theory, Stock FPR and wally 255HP and doing just fine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif

PS maybe the holy water i pissed into the gas tank exercised the demon right the hell out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[sleepyvr4]

nothing holy has ever come from you Joe - you are the true enemy of the cup of Jebus Christ of Latter day saints...

 

Thanks for the re-confirmation.

 

[belize1334]

Reasons we associate you with SBR.

1) Quoting sleepyvr4:
Joe Shuler of Slowboy Racing and Pat Donaldson (see #2 fastest 16g 1/4 mile time) have been working on this with me.



2) Your handle is "SBRJoe".

Now back to the issue...

What kind of logging software do you have? You might try disabling one injector at a time to see if it's a global issue or if you just have one cylinder that's causing all the problems. Also try unplugging the MAF and see if that makes a difference. What kind of airflow reading are you getting if you force it to idle at about 1k (using the throttle to keep it going if necessary). Does the o2 cycle normally? A fouled o2 sensor could be always reading rich and thus leaning everything out to the point that it won't run.

Also, and this is a stretch, you might have a partially seized accessory (like PS pump) that's just dragging too much and the engine can't keep it going at idle.

 

Quoting sleepyvr4:
Quoting NateCrisman:
Seems like having an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and no fuel pressure gauge. It's adjustable and "who cares what it actually is set to" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif




Also - after driving it this far the car has just decided to idle on its own. I haven't changed anything at all.

 

Quoting belize1334:
Reasons we associate you with SBR.

1) Quoting sleepyvr4:
Joe Shuler of Slowboy Racing and Pat Donaldson (see #2 fastest 16g 1/4 mile time) have been working on this with me.



2) Your handle is "SBRJoe".

Now back to the issue...

What kind of logging software do you have? You might try disabling one injector at a time to see if it's a global issue or if you just have one cylinder that's causing all the problems. Also try unplugging the MAF and see if that makes a difference. What kind of airflow reading are you getting if you force it to idle at about 1k (using the throttle to keep it going if necessary). Does the o2 cycle normally? A fouled o2 sensor could be always reading rich and thus leaning everything out to the point that it won't run.

Also, and this is a stretch, you might have a partially seized accessory (like PS pump) that's just dragging too much and the engine can't keep it going at idle.




Trust me when i say i checked EVERYTHING 3 times again. lol

And the car barely has a dash, let alone power steering so we can rule the accessory problems out.

The car apparently fixed itself after a 100 mile drive. So rock on, no more problems (for now) LOL

 

[belize1334]

^^ Maybe it was a sticky injector. Anyway, glad to hear that it's running better.