How to get into the 12's?

[Nate]

Recipe for 12 sec ets:

o2 dump
fuel pump
boost controller
some method of defeating fuel cut
clutch
4 bolt
decent intercooler
filter
entry fees every week until you get the number you want.

Notice I didn't mention an exhaust in there.

 

^Dont even need a 4 bolt for high 12s.

 

[91vr4]

Quote:
^Dont even need a 4 bolt for high 12s.



+1.. Ive heard its not necessary unless you're making more power than a stock block can handle..

 

[atc250r]

I wouldn't go that far. I'd say that around the time you brake into the 1.6 60ft range is when you'll break your 3 bolt axle. I ran a ton of high 12's with a 16G on my 3 bolt with mid to low 1.7's and then the first good launch at the track with the big turbo snapped the splined part off inside the diff.

John

 

[Nate]

True, but if you want to get the most out of your money, the additional short time help from a 4bolt can be worth what it costs. Absolutely not necessary, but if it drops your short times from 1.8s to 1.6s, that's a huge difference for fairly little money.

 

[uncleben4rice]

Keydiver Boost is at 20-22psi any higher and it knocks,,it starts to drop off at about 5000rpm to about 17psi on 91 pump gas..I had some boost leaks, but they have been addressed... now we are starting to think its the exhaust,pipeing or BOV. dont get me wrong the car is close..but back to the original post.... I still think had I started with the big turbo 12s would have been so easy. I would be saying my car wont go 11s. I have not been back to the track since last tune and boost leak was fixed ...I may go this weekend...I will keep you posted..

 

[Rausch]

Quote:
I still think had I started with the big turbo 12s would have been so easy. I would be saying my car wont go 11s

you're probably right, but there is a TON to be learned when wringing power out. just imagine when you do finally max the thing out, how much easier and more straightforward it will be to tune for a new turbo. there is something to be said for laying the groundwork/ understanding your car, and how to tune it. every car is different, so there is really no specific formula, just a handful of key points to address and work with.

once you get there, the bigger turbo will be that much more.... /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/grin.gif

 

[cheekychimp]

Yeah agreed. Aaron and I discussed this before in respect of the DSMLink. We both know that other standalones offer more power, but I think the experience gained from using a less complicated system (plus the ability to know when you have got as much power as you hope to from that system) reaps huge benefits further down the line.

That and the fact, that in my case I honestly believe that in the end I will end up either turning down the boost or down sizing my turbo to around 350-400 WHP.

 

[Wizardawd]

The formula I had for low-buck 12s in the 14b DSMs was:

Remove air silencer
Hack or remove air can
K&N ($36)
Remove slave cylinder restrictor
Clutch upgrade (2100 or better $300+)
No exhaust (unbolted from the turbo) or 2.5" cat-back with no cat or better ($??)
UICP (not really necessary, just helps with the hic-ups between fast shifts) ($200)
Crush and/or mod 1g BOV
Advance base timing to 10deg BTDC
Rewire stock pump
110-114 octane gas (2 gal at $5 per)
19-20psi
Shift at 1-2 (6500), 2-3 (6000) 3-4 (5500)

Usually with a good 1.6-1.7 launch would net 12.5-12.8 at 106-109 depending on condition of car and track. Not bad for well under 1k.

Wiz