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GVR4 Tranny rebuild. Difficult?

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,991
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Michigan
If it has a tranny section covering the W5M33, but I think the '92 manuals don't have engine and trans info in them. They were in separate books for 92-94 I believe.

Maybe that's Mitsu only, and the Chrysler books had it. Just check for it. (Still not very detailed in my opinion.)
 

spoulson

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Feb 5, 2003
Messages
2,908
Location
Worton, MD
I'll be checking out that FSM this week. He says he has all the books.

Here's another couple of links I picked up:
Limited set of pages from Mitsu training manual, rebuild W5M33
Someone's GS-T rebuild, FWD, but hey it gives a lot of close-up views of parts

I have a lead on the complete scanned PDF of the Mitsu training manual on the W5M33. I'll post it when I have it.

As far as tools required, I've been recommended to use:
- a 12t press, such as this one. (Harbor Freight = free shipping)
- snap ring pliers. The ones on Harbor Freight won't work, so someone recommended the tool from Sears or Snap-On.
- Large bearing separator
- FSM. As far as I can tell, as long as it has a section for W5M33 overhaul, that's what you need. 92+ had separate books for overhaul, fyi.

I'll post more when I get further into this. I'll be sure to take a bunch of pictures during the rebuild.
 

GVR-4

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Asheville, NC USA
Dude! You RULE! Please keep us all posted on your progress. My rebuild will have to wait at least a few months. But I'm stoked that all these resources are here for when I do tackle it. Thanks for sharing all this stuff.

dp
 

Tondar

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Joined
Dec 2, 2001
Messages
216
Location
detroit, MI, USA
Have any of you made any progress with your transmissions? I'm getting ready to start this and would like advice

Thanx
 

GVR-4

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Asheville, NC USA
Yes, mine's in the basement on the bench in pieces. Advice, huh? Print the PDF instructions, even though it's like 44 pages. Make sure you have a bearing separator, and probably a press. I have two nice pullers that I may be able to make work instead of a press. Time will tell as I'm waiting on the separator from an eBay seller. An impact will be a great benefit. Drain as much oil out as you can before you start cracking the bolts loose to take the case apart. If you deal with Jon at TRE he'll tell you to take the tranny apart before you order parts. You'll need snap ring pliers. That's all I can think of at the moment. Let me know if you have specific questions and I'll try to answere them.

dp
 

GVR-4

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Apr 22, 2002
Messages
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Asheville, NC USA
Check this out: I found another spot where the shift linkage develops play. It's in the lever that moves the control shaft in and out of the case. There are two metal (maybe aluminum) bushings that are pressed into the lever that had some play, and a nylon (plastic) block that has developed some slop over the last 11 years. I just got done machining some brass replacement bushings that fit tighter. No play at all now. I won't know how well it worked 'til I get the tranny rebuilt and in the car. Here's a photo of the lever and the old and new parts:



dp
 

Dave, that's pretty sweet. I just replaced those bushings with new factory ones, and it's still not perfect. Seriously, make a bunch of those bushings, setup a simple ordering web page that takes paypal, and you're good to go. The shifter assembly could use 'em too.

I'll order the first set!
 

spoulson

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Location
Worton, MD
quote:Originally posted by Tondar:
You don't by chance have a similar manual for the transfer case do you?
The FSM also has a rebuild section for the transfer case, too. But, I don't have it electronically.

You guys could order the $35 Backup manual CD from various vendors. That is a copy of the FSM, right?
 

While you're in there, pop the $ for the evo shift forks..they make the shifts feel way better. much more solid because you don't have the aluminum flexing..I'd go with the RRE forks if you have the extra cash. I rebuilt mine with new aluminum forks, only to have the tranny out 3 weeks later replacing them again with steel..bent one on the first race after the rebuild, and it was brand new.
dave
 

spoulson

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Worton, MD
I've heard mixed reviews about the EVO forks. Yeah, they're stronger but not necessarily perfect. Some have complained of the pads on the end of the forks wearing out too fast, or just falling off. I went with OEM aluminum.
 

TRE's EVO forks now have bronze wear pads that are held on by machine screws and silver solder. Jon seems to think they've worked all the kinks out, and highly recommended them. I think I'm going to try them.
 

GVR-4

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Asheville, NC USA
Yeah, the EVO shift forks are just one of the upgrades that will be going in. Jon's got my center diff right now and will be converting it to a 4-spider gear unit. When he sends it back, it will be accompanied by all the other goodies.

Howard: I'll kick it around. It's pretty time intensive.

dp
 

quote:Originally posted by GVR-4:
Yeah, the EVO shift forks are just one of the upgrades that will be going in. Jon's got my center diff right now and will be converting it to a 4-spider gear unit. When he sends it back, it will be acconpanied by all the other goodies.
dp
Yesss! FedEx just picked up my transmission, and its on its way to TRE. I'm getting the 4-spider diff too, the EVO forks, heavy duty synchros on 1,3,and 4, and the dual-sychro 2nd gear (of course). If there's any money left in the bank, I may get the higher 5th gear ratio. Anyone have any feedback on the 10% vs 25% change?
 

spoulson

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Worton, MD
I finally got a chance to crack open the transmission last night:



Removing viscous coupling unit


View of ball in the center diff's rear shaft. Don't lose this! (I used compressed air to pop it out, then it fell inside the case, but I found it later. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )


View of transmission with 'trans case adapter' removed.


Transmission case removed. View of input and intermediate shafts and front diff.


Close up of front diff.


Close up of center diff.
 
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spoulson

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Feb 5, 2003
Messages
2,908
Location
Worton, MD
Gear selection assembly.


Close up of input and intermediate shafts. 1st/2nd gear on the left, 3rd/4th on the right.




That's all for now. Next is to start doing the RnR on the gears and synchros.

Btw, does anyone have a suggestion to give the trans case pieces a good cleaning to look like new? I scrubbed and scrubbed and what you see is the best I can do. That's caked on old coolant/oil mix.
 
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