got some dyno numbers!! Video added!

[1qkfwd]

If you look in the pic above you can see the knock sensor in the hole right by the head.

 

[Ben]

Compression was about 140 psi, maybe minus a little on some cylinders befor the dyno. The 130-135 psi reading was only 5 revolutions. I probaby could have went a few more and got to that 140 psi.

I have no clue what comrpession to go with either. I was just going with the lowest to help it last, I dunno?

I'm looing very hard at just calling ffwd and having them put an engine together for me. When I add up replacing pistons, machining the block again, buying a head and gaskets, I'm not far off from just buying ti from them. It has much better chances of being correct if someone else does it! haha

I just assumed that's where the knock sensor goes. I'll have to look again and see if there's another hole I'm not seeing.

I will take pics of the plugs this evening.

 

[1qkfwd]

The factory spot is below where you have it. It's midway down the block between 2 and 3.

 

[Ben]

These plugs I put in new after I got back from the tune with 90 oct already back in the tank. maybe 10-20 miles on them


These are the ones they put in at Abel on the dyno. They saw many dyno pulls on e, then a few miles of 90 oct after.

 

[1qkfwd]

Very rich. Hard to tell on the wot section of the plug. Doesn't look like any detonation. Where your knock sensor is, you might be picking up noise from somewhere else. The knock does increase with rpm. Maybe I missed it but what oil are you running? Also what gave you the idea that you where lifting the head?

 

[Ben]

20-50 oil.

My coolant was spewing out very fast. I don't know where else my cooling system would get enough pressure to overcome the cap and make the over flow hose look like a water hose on full blast. But I never actually sat down and thought about any other possibilities of the cooling system creating that pressure.
Also the guy that tuned it described what a head gasket might look like it the head lifted. He said that black on either side of every cyl shows that my head lifted.

These longer responses are difficult on a phone! Stupid touchscren

 

[1qkfwd]

I was just curious as to how you knew before you pulled the head. It is obvious with the head pulled that there was seepage. Standard arps torqued to 100ft/lbs woulda cured that at your level now. Who knows at what point you would need a the L19s. Is the hole your talking about in the piston the small one on the edge? It's hard to see the pics on my celly. What's stoppin you from bolting on your head with a fresh resurface and more torque on the head studs or L19s?

 

[Ben]

You should take a look at them on a computer. notice the machine limit indicators on the head. It's been machined many times past the limit. I would like a fresh start on the head. Also if you look at the head pics, there are holes in the head. they were there before but everyone who saw the holes said they weren't on the gasket surface so I should be ok. Well one of the holes was partially on the gasket and mostly in the combustion chamber. THAT hole in the head lines up EXACLTY when the hole in my piston. You can also notice a clear line on the head gasket surface leading from the combustion chamber at that point.
I had the arps torqued to 85 with the arp lube. I will go a little tighter next time around.

 

[1qkfwd]

Ya the iPhones not helpin lol. When do you expect to have it running again?

 

[Ben]

absolutely no idea. I have tons of stuff forsale on a few different forums to start gathering monies for a new engine. Including my banshee that I love dearly /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif . I already sold my Honda and boat to help finish the build
Hopefully I can get some stuff sold and start talking to Darren at FFWD connection.