First time engine rebuilt question # 1 with lots of pics

[mitsuturbo]

Take them out. Clean them up. Inspect them for any cracks near where the squirter arm is brazed to the base. (i've seen them broken off in STOCK high mileage engines) Set them aside somewhere safe for reinstallation when you assemble the block. I torque them to 20lb/ft when installing.

I usually torque the critical engine bolts to 20, 40, 60, 80. That's 20 for the oilers, 40 for the rods, 60 for the mains, and 80 for the head. Never had a problem doing it this way.

If you're going with ARP hardware, things are different. Follow their instructions.

 

[kooter]

Thank you .

 

[kooter]

starting going through my parts that I have already bought.




That was just the first box. Made myself laugh because I even got a new balance shaft belt. But hey I can always hang it around the rear view mirror.

 

[fuel]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
Indifferent. Look at the back of the block, top right corner. Near the top right transmission mount bolt.. there's a flat (machined) spot on the block. If there's no VIN stamped there, someone's purchased a complete JDM engine package and put it into the car. This basically just means you got 510cc injectors and a small16g.
The transmission should have a VIN on the bellhousing as well.

Sometimes guys will order an engine/trans combo and just drop it in the car. If there's no vin on either part, that's what has happened with yours.

If it's a JDM swap, it's likely got fairly low miles and may not need much attention. I'd pull main and rod caps and have a look at the bearings, since you've got it out. If it looks good, i'd just put it back together and leave it alone, other than a BS elimination and head rebuild.

Note: i was able to make out the numbers on the turbo in pic. It is in fact a small 16g.



So which JDM Galant VR-4 got the small 16G exactly? I'll tell you - it was none of them. They were either 14B for the non-Evolution models (including RS before July 1990) or big 16G for the Evolution models from August 1990 onwards with that exact 49178-01420 part number. The automatic JDM models had the TD04-13G turbo.

That turbo is definitely a big 16G. I know because it's the exact same turbo which was on my 1991 JDM Evolution VR-4 and the compressor wheel had the same measurements as a big 16G.

Here is my original turbo with the same part number. Excuse the beat up wheel with bent fins. It was replaced with a 20G wheel and EvoIII 49178-01470 cover ported to suit the 20G wheel.

 

[mitsuturbo]

You're absolutely right. I mismatched the line which matched the numbers on that turbo. It is in fact a big16g. No question about it.

Apologies for my earlier misinformation. It was an honest mistake.

 

[rgeier11]

If you would like to send the head/block to a machine shop. I highly recommend Bill at Apex Engineering in Bensenville. He has been building all of the engines for AMS, Sound Performance, etc.

I've used him four different times. Once to make a block .020 over, 2 head rebuilds/surfacing, a basic clean/hone.

He is very smart and will help you with all of the little extras.

 

[kooter]

still searching but wanted to ask.
when it comes to valve guides and valves.
If I want to use 1mm oversized valves do I need standard or oversized guides?

 

[kooter]

dropped everything off at the machine shop. let the fun begin...

 

[kooter]

so what I am thinking.

Brian Crower Stage 2 272/272 BC0101
Brian Crower DUAL Valvesprings Retainers Kit BC0120
Brian Crower Valves 4G63T BC3104 & BC3105
AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gears 23-830BK
evo rocker arms & valve keeper's MD375091 & MD016483
gsc power division zero ticl lifters
supertech inatake & exhaust valve guides

ARP head stud kit 207-4201
ARP cam bolt 107-1002

 

[matt92vr4]

Nice work so far! I start an almost identical project on mine next week. I'm hoping to find a BIG16G on mine but I seriously doubt I will. It would have run much better time at the track /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Have you found a good link for all of the torque specs (besides the manual)? Thanks!

 

[kooter]

No , I have the mitsu shop manual's. I will just be using that. Or what ever is spec's for parts purchased.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Quoting kooter:
so what I am thinking.

Brian Crower Stage 2 272/272 BC0101
Brian Crower DUAL Valvesprings Retainers Kit BC0120
Brian Crower Valves 4G63T BC3104 & BC3105
AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gears 23-830BK
evo rocker arms & valve keeper's MD375091 & MD016483
gsc power division zero ticl lifters
supertech inatake & exhaust valve guides

ARP head stud kit 207-4201
ARP cam bolt 107-1002






I have a bit of advice on the parts choice here.

S.I. valves are probably just as good, or better, and cost less money.
BC cams are usually not the first choice, from what i know. Both the evo and dsm crowd seem to have come to the consensus that GSC and Kelford are the best cams. I've seen a lot of discussion saying the BC cams aren't that great.
The GSC lifters cost over double what you'd pay for a set of new lifters from ENGNBLDR on ebay. The revised lifters he sells are a good bargain, and a lot of guys run them with no issues.
Evo rockers are a great idea. I wish i had bought some myself.
Supertech guides probably cost a lot more than guides from ENGNBLDR on ebay, and they're likely an identical product.
If you're getting double springs, make sure they either fit around a stock valve stem seal, or come with seals. Rumor has it that the beehives are a better design anyway.

 

[kooter]

thank you for the info I appreciate it.

 

[kooter]

what a nice day it was outside today.
Dropped off some parts at the machine shop.








Also new lifter's. no pic.

Then since it was so nice out I decided to finally get something I been planning to do.











Lots more lots more lots more. To do. I see many sunny days getting dirty. I can't wait.

 

[DR1665]

Rock on, dude. Love that attitude. Make it so.

 

[kooter]

Thank you.
So I got a little bit more done today. Gotta say I have major respect for anyone who wrenches for a living. I only spent a couple hours trying to figure out what the hell I was doing and my back is screaming. All be it I was working in the parking lot at work. climbing in and out of the engine bay.



I believe this is the charcoal canister for the fuel vapor system. Correct me if I am wrong please.


Is this something I can safely remove or delete. I have been searching but would like a solid answer, and perhaps some instuction how to do it correctly if it can be done.

 

[luis84one]

this thread helped me figure it out click

 

[alansupra94]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
Quoting kooter:
so what I am thinking.

Brian Crower Stage 2 272/272 BC0101
Brian Crower DUAL Valvesprings Retainers Kit BC0120
Brian Crower Valves 4G63T BC3104 & BC3105
AEM Tru-Time Adjustable Cam Gears 23-830BK
evo rocker arms & valve keeper's MD375091 & MD016483
gsc power division zero ticl lifters
supertech inatake & exhaust valve guides

ARP head stud kit 207-4201
ARP cam bolt 107-1002






I have a bit of advice on the parts choice here.

S.I. valves are probably just as good, or better, and cost less money.
BC cams are usually not the first choice, from what i know. Both the evo and dsm crowd seem to have come to the consensus that GSC and Kelford are the best cams. I've seen a lot of discussion saying the BC cams aren't that great.
The GSC lifters cost over double what you'd pay for a set of new lifters from ENGNBLDR on ebay. The revised lifters he sells are a good bargain, and a lot of guys run them with no issues.
Evo rockers are a great idea. I wish i had bought some myself.
Supertech guides probably cost a lot more than guides from ENGNBLDR on ebay, and they're likely an identical product.
If you're getting double springs, make sure they either fit around a stock valve stem seal, or come with seals. Rumor has it that the beehives are a better design anyway.



I have read on several forums that evo rockers are actually weaker than 1G rockers.

That is just what I read.

 

[kooter]

So I got a little bit more done tonight.
Odd I really only planned to pull the cruise and abs but it would seem I have decided to just go all out and remove everything, clean, blast, and then paint everything and start fresh from scratch. I gotta say I like this idea.












and just for fun my dd