First time engine rebuilt question # 1 with lots of pics

[misterfixit]

Quoting yeti:
they can be polished not ground or cut due to the nitrate coating,
updated lifters can go with stock valvetrain,
i wouldent redo valve stem seals unless machine shop says so, ( they will tell you if you need new valves or anything, which you probably wont,these motors are tough)
yes type in gasket kit into google shopping and pick the one that meets your needs..partsdinosaur.com sells a full engine gasket set and a build your own gasket set start there im ordering this gasket set next time click



It's 20 years old, on 98K miles and you are taking the valves out. REPLACE THE VALVE SEALS PERIOD. It will just piss you off when it smokes on startup after a rest if you leave the old seals in. I have NEVER built a head and left the old stem seals in.

My $0.23

Rich

 

[kooter]

I already have new valve seals so they will be getting replaced.
everything is getting replaced for my own peace of mind.

One more question's I have.
What would be my best bet for replacing the camshafts. It is a stock build but would like something that will allow me some room to grow if I do decide to start upping the hp.

 

[kooter]

so what I am thinking.

web page

web page

web page

my question here would be.
Are the oversized valves worth it. I like to think it is a good thing for down the road when I decide I need to go bigger.
Will I have any negqative effect's from the 272 cams on a currently stock car. Or do these cams require some tuning.

 

[kooter]

found a bolt just hanging out. No idea.



noticed there was no nuts on the bottom ends of the manifold.



Only broke one stud. Nut popped off as I barely touched it. The rest came off nice and easy













































my collection

 

[kooter]

not sure how I like it better.

suggestions anyone?

 

[yeti]

i like the first one,

about cams you should be fine,

get a 2g exh. mani, or evo3..

 

[mitsuturbo]

I have some advice...

First of all, that turbo you have there looks like a 16g. It is most definitely NOT a stock 14b. Taking a wild (exucated) guess, i'd say that it's a small 16g. That'll get you close to the 300hp mark, especially if you get cams, fuel pump, injectors, and management.

Second.. when you have the machine shop rework the head, make sure you have them cut the seats. A 3 angle job is standard process. Nothing special, no "extra" cost should be associated with a 3 angle valve job. (some people think a 3 angle is somehow "special") Also, make sure they set up the valve stem installed height properly. Make sure they don't resurface it on a belt sander. Make sure they have a good machine that will do it even and as smooth as possible, especially if using a MLS gasket. I'd recommend replacing the valves AND guides. If cost is an issue, engnbldr on ebay sells sets that are good, and for a good price. If you want the best which isn't overpriced, go with S.I. valves/guides. If you can pick up a set of aftermarket valve springs, it's never a bad idea, especially if you plan on revving it pretty high.

Third.. regarding your exhaust manifold studs on the outer ends. Get the studs out first, then buy a GOOD 10x1.25 tap, and thread the holes for larger studs (outer two ONLY). Install the 2g or evo manifold with the larger studs on the outside. They're less prone to backing out, loosening, breakage, and can take a little more torque, thus better preventing exh. mani. gasket blowouts.

Fourth.. perform a balance shaft elimination. It's a reliability issue and you do not need them.

Fifth.. when putting the oil pan back on, DO NOT use a gasket, and DO NOT use orange, blue, or black permatex. Use Ultra Grey or Hondabond.

So, with all that, there's quite a list of things to consider. Now, if you're getting into the block, you're going to want to get the rods reconditioned (i recommend balancing the rods too, but the crank should be fine), have the crank checked/polished, have the main bores align honed, have the block decked as little as possible, then have it honed, or bored and honed if needed. Make sure the machine shop sets up PTW clearance at the spec YOU desire. Don't let them choose, because sometimes they choose wrong. Do your research, and decide how tight/loose you want things set up. Same goes for the piston ring end gap. This isn't so much a concern with stock replacement parts, but if you go forged, it can be an issue. I was out $300 because the machine shop thought 20psi was severe duty for my Mahle pistons and i didn't specify. They read the card that came with the pistons, and honed it out WAAAAAY too loose.

2g pistons on 1g rods is a common mod, but by the time you're done having the machine shop tobin arp the small end, recondition the big end, clean, and balance the 6 bolt rods, you could probably buy a set of Eagles, which (at least in my case) are already balanced. In case you're wondering, don't even consider running cast NA 9:1 pistons in your block.. the ring lands won't handle boost.

 

[kooter]

I do not know enough about turbos yet.
When I bought the car I was told it was still stock. Has the stock intercooler setup still.
but here are a few more pics if anyone can say one way or another.




Found this on dsmtuner
14B
49178-01010
49178-01030
49178-01400
49178-01410

Small 16G
49178-01520
49178-05200

Big 16G
49178-01420

 

[kooter]

some more pictures

 

[kooter]

the old






The New



I do have a question for anyone half of the head bolts were dry and half were wet with oil. Is that normal?

 

[kooter]

also just to say it I got some of these to help out.

 

[kooter]

I should have taken a pic but didn't know so I will tomorrow.
I was just reading that the injector's I currently have are not stock, Mine are yellow on top. so that would make them early evo 510's?

 

[mitsuturbo]

i'd be willing to bet if you check the block, there's no VIN on it. you probably got a complete JDM swap in there

 

[kooter]

Doing some research here on my own.
But I have to ask.
is it good bad or indifferent if it is a jdm engine.

After checking the block all I find is
4g63 LH1737

 

[mitsuturbo]

Indifferent. Look at the back of the block, top right corner. Near the top right transmission mount bolt.. there's a flat (machined) spot on the block. If there's no VIN stamped there, someone's purchased a complete JDM engine package and put it into the car. This basically just means you got 510cc injectors and a small16g.
The transmission should have a VIN on the bellhousing as well.

Sometimes guys will order an engine/trans combo and just drop it in the car. If there's no vin on either part, that's what has happened with yours.

If it's a JDM swap, it's likely got fairly low miles and may not need much attention. I'd pull main and rod caps and have a look at the bearings, since you've got it out. If it looks good, i'd just put it back together and leave it alone, other than a BS elimination and head rebuild.

Note: i was able to make out the numbers on the turbo in pic. It is in fact a small 16g.

 

[kooter]

I plan to take everything off. Send the block (and head) to machine shop for bare minimum to be cleaned.
If nothing is needed nothing is needed. that is cool with me.

I really do like the idea of when I am all done that I have 100% brand new and perfect engine.
Will begin engine bay cleaning and repainting while engine is out.

Then it will be onto the trans and transfer case. Pretty sure they are both going to jack's for complete rebuild.

I know I may be doing things that don't need to be done. But I am more then happy to have the peace of mind knowing everything is done.

Also this is a learning experience. I know things about cars. I work in a stealership as a part's guy. For the gvr4 I want to know everything.

 

[kooter]

Thank you again for the input.
What numbers are you seeing on the tubo ?

 

[birdman24]

mitsuturbo is right its a Jdm swap, if you look in the pictures you posted on the first page you can see it is clearly blank.

Terence

 

[kooter]

just something I came across about jdm engine's. Thought I would share it


road///race engineering
DSM-GVR4 Motor and Tranny Searching
web page

 

[kooter]

So I got it down to the bare block. To the machine shop in the next couple days.

One last question. Do I need to remove the oil squirter's or leave them in?