evo 9 fmic

[AWDPower]

Here are some pics of my install. I chose to install the I/C without modifying the inlet or outlet. I also wanted to add an air oil cooler, and keep the A/C and fog lights. I used a 1G power steering cooler. I sectioned the bumper beam, cutting out a piece and re-welding it back together. My piping is 2 1/4" off the 20G, then transitions almost imediately via exaust reducer to 2 1/2". The 2 1/2" bend on the hot side was tough to fit around the radiator, but I wanted to step up the pipe size before the bend. I used 2 1/2" silicone 90's to attach the piping to the I/C, which greatly simplified installation. I made the upper I/C pipe one piece, two with a coupling would have been easier. Your intake and battery set up will determine your upper I/C pipe route. Overall, I'm very happy with my install. The I/C fits perfectly within the bumper cover, and looks factory.

 

[matt92vr4]

Now that is beautiful! Thanks for the pics. For your BOV flange, did you hack it off of the stock pipe and weld it on to the new one?

 

[prove_it]

Quoting 5OF2k:
Im a fan of the stepped piping and what it does to the spool characteristics. It seems like it spools harderand hit full boost quicker, eliminates creep.

BUT, hey. There are always a million opinions on the same setup. Either way you decide to go will work!

-Jake



Biggest advantage I see when running 2" to the intercooler inlet is that you can heat wrap the pipe much easier than a 2.5" pipe. Really helps a daily driver from heat soaking the outlet pipe that close to the manifold.

 

[TomN]

Why is it easier to heat wrap a 2in pipe?
My 2.5in pipe from turbo to intercooler was heat wrapped ( which I recommend doing ). I can't say it was very hard. Took maybe 15 minutes.

 

[blacksheep]

Question - I thought heat wrap held heat in more than prevent/reflect heat? The best they say is to coat it or cover with heat reflecting tape of some sort, I thought. I could be wrong...

 

[desant78]

^that's what I also heard.

Also, I always suspected that IC piping to the IC should be kept to a minimum, so less piping and smallest diameter without restricting flow. A seasoned tuner in the area suggested that from the turbo to the IC try to keep it as close as possible to the turbo outlet, because air is flowing at a certain flow out of the turbo, so making a large volume will slow down the air, and just have a larger area to pressurize before IC and post IC system. Basically get to the IC as fast as possible, without going smaller than the turbo outlet. This was on a rb25 garret 30r build.

 

[AWDPower]

Quote:
Now that is beautiful! Thanks for the pics. For your BOV flange, did you hack it off of the stock pipe and weld it on to the new one?




Thanks! I saved all my stock piping, and cut the flange off an extra dsm pipe instead. I actually used two. This was one of my first welding projects. I put too much heat in the first flange and warped it just ever so slightly- and cracked my nice like-new bov when I bolted it on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I didn't use any wrap because I want it to look stock-ish. I'm sure it would help a bit, but I think the heatshields on the manifold and turbo keep most of the heat away. The pipe gets warm, but not too hot to touch. I'd bet under boost that the air in the pipe is much hotter then the pipe itself. You also need to think of the piping and I/C as a system, with each bend and restriction lowering the system's overall efficiency. A larger radius, larger diameter bend will trade some volume to preserve some efficiency.

 

[prove_it]

I use a FP exhaust manifold. Heat wrapping the hot side pipe helps to prevent heat soak. I'm sure a reflector would work too.