CP
Well-known member
I was just going to use a bunch of washers, or a piece of thin pipe cut to the thickness of the bracket, or an appropriately sized stud and nut /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
ETS FMIC install + JDM bumper bracket problems
- Thread starter CP
- Start date
CP,
This will be our first post on GalantVR4.org but we will be active members within the community.
On the throttlebody bolt issues. The bracket will need to be removed. We will be doing an install soon for the instructions that we will be releasing in the future. Currently we do not provide a shorter bolt with the kit, but in future kits this bolt will be included. We do recommend purchasing a new, shorter bolt and removing the support bracket. We don't expect a replacement bolt to be too expensive from a local hardware store, but if you would like reimbursement for it, feel free to PM us.
As for the blow off valve, we position it in that location so that our intake can be used in conjunction with the stock bpv in a recirculated configuration. If the blow off valve location is too close to the fan for you we would glady replace it for you with a flange located further up the pipe, away from the fan.
Here is a picture with our intake kit.
What is that last picture of? The one where the seam off the bend of the turbo needed some die grinder attention. We debur all the piping where the welds may cause sharp points or edges within the flanges and pipes where they are welded. If this is the case it will be an issue that we will have revisit here at our shop.
Joe Schesso
Extreme Turbo Systems
This will be our first post on GalantVR4.org but we will be active members within the community.
On the throttlebody bolt issues. The bracket will need to be removed. We will be doing an install soon for the instructions that we will be releasing in the future. Currently we do not provide a shorter bolt with the kit, but in future kits this bolt will be included. We do recommend purchasing a new, shorter bolt and removing the support bracket. We don't expect a replacement bolt to be too expensive from a local hardware store, but if you would like reimbursement for it, feel free to PM us.
As for the blow off valve, we position it in that location so that our intake can be used in conjunction with the stock bpv in a recirculated configuration. If the blow off valve location is too close to the fan for you we would glady replace it for you with a flange located further up the pipe, away from the fan.
Here is a picture with our intake kit.
What is that last picture of? The one where the seam off the bend of the turbo needed some die grinder attention. We debur all the piping where the welds may cause sharp points or edges within the flanges and pipes where they are welded. If this is the case it will be an issue that we will have revisit here at our shop.
Joe Schesso
Extreme Turbo Systems
So you did the boost leak test and it indeed wound up being because of that 1 untightened bolt at the TB? Or did you find leaks elsewhere?
CP
Well-known member
Quote:
This will be our first post on GalantVR4.org but we will be active members within the community.
Joe, thanks for the post. We welcome any vendor participation in our little community. You'll find that your presence on the board will eventually help you sell more product, and with constructive feedback, a better product.
Quote:
On the throttlebody bolt issues. The bracket will need to be removed.
I removed the bracket and cut off the three ends to re-use as spacers at their stock locations. I've got that lower right bolt finger-tight now, but it's impossible to get a wrench on it. There's not enough room around the head of the bolt to even get a wrench head to slide onto it. That aluminum colored piece (below the bolt) with the coolant lines running to it is in the way; I think it's the FIAV. I can't get a socket to it either because the piping prevents a good straight shot to the bolt head. Like I said before, a little more piping running straight off the TB would probably help. I'm going to try to locate a shorter bolt, toss the bracket that I'm using as a spacer and see if that helps with access to the head of the bolt.
Quote:
As for the blow off valve, we position it in that location so that our intake can be used in conjunction with the stock bpv in a recirculated configuration. If the blow off valve location is too close to the fan for you we would glady replace it for you with a flange located further up the pipe, away from the fan.
I think I'm going to take you up on this offer Joe. I'll contact you off-list about it. Most of us with cars in this state of modification (probably half the members on the board) have moved the battery to the trunk and are taking cool air from behind the passenger headlight using some sort of simple 1G intake pipe. Most of us run recirc too, just like stock. Even if I had my stock BPV mounted on your flange, it's still too close to being INSIDE the fan shroud. Just an inch or two farther up the pipe would be perfect. You should consider offering an intake pipe that allows the MAS to be positioned behind the headlight. The following picture illustrates the typical MAS placement in a modified GVR4:
Quote:
What is that last picture of?
The last picture is of the inside of the pipe off the turbo, where it expands to a larger diameter and then bends to run parallel to the radiator. There was some welding rod on the inside at the seam. I'm just anal and like my airflow path to be as smooth as possible. This is why I also ground down the TB flange a bit where there was a slight lip remaining, though I could see where you guys had already hit the area with a grinder.
All in all, Joe, I'm very pleased with the kit. The piping is very nice in stainless, and it fits well for the most part. It just needs to be tweaked a little here and there. I sent an email to you all yesterday with my suggestions to make it a slightly better fitting kit. Take or leave any/all of my comments.
I appreciate you as a new member of our community Joe /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
As far as the leak, it's at the turbo neck. The flange on my aging 14b is in rough shape and is leaking royally. Brand new EVO3 is going in this weekend, so I'm not going to bother fixing the leak.
This will be our first post on GalantVR4.org but we will be active members within the community.
Joe, thanks for the post. We welcome any vendor participation in our little community. You'll find that your presence on the board will eventually help you sell more product, and with constructive feedback, a better product.
Quote:
On the throttlebody bolt issues. The bracket will need to be removed.
I removed the bracket and cut off the three ends to re-use as spacers at their stock locations. I've got that lower right bolt finger-tight now, but it's impossible to get a wrench on it. There's not enough room around the head of the bolt to even get a wrench head to slide onto it. That aluminum colored piece (below the bolt) with the coolant lines running to it is in the way; I think it's the FIAV. I can't get a socket to it either because the piping prevents a good straight shot to the bolt head. Like I said before, a little more piping running straight off the TB would probably help. I'm going to try to locate a shorter bolt, toss the bracket that I'm using as a spacer and see if that helps with access to the head of the bolt.
Quote:
As for the blow off valve, we position it in that location so that our intake can be used in conjunction with the stock bpv in a recirculated configuration. If the blow off valve location is too close to the fan for you we would glady replace it for you with a flange located further up the pipe, away from the fan.
I think I'm going to take you up on this offer Joe. I'll contact you off-list about it. Most of us with cars in this state of modification (probably half the members on the board) have moved the battery to the trunk and are taking cool air from behind the passenger headlight using some sort of simple 1G intake pipe. Most of us run recirc too, just like stock. Even if I had my stock BPV mounted on your flange, it's still too close to being INSIDE the fan shroud. Just an inch or two farther up the pipe would be perfect. You should consider offering an intake pipe that allows the MAS to be positioned behind the headlight. The following picture illustrates the typical MAS placement in a modified GVR4:
Quote:
What is that last picture of?
The last picture is of the inside of the pipe off the turbo, where it expands to a larger diameter and then bends to run parallel to the radiator. There was some welding rod on the inside at the seam. I'm just anal and like my airflow path to be as smooth as possible. This is why I also ground down the TB flange a bit where there was a slight lip remaining, though I could see where you guys had already hit the area with a grinder.
All in all, Joe, I'm very pleased with the kit. The piping is very nice in stainless, and it fits well for the most part. It just needs to be tweaked a little here and there. I sent an email to you all yesterday with my suggestions to make it a slightly better fitting kit. Take or leave any/all of my comments.
I appreciate you as a new member of our community Joe /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
As far as the leak, it's at the turbo neck. The flange on my aging 14b is in rough shape and is leaking royally. Brand new EVO3 is going in this weekend, so I'm not going to bother fixing the leak.
Last edited:
Cy don't use the ends as spacers, that is going to change nothing. It will be as though the bracket is still there. You need to either get shorter studs with the corret size nut, or shorter bolts like I said above. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
CP
Well-known member
I'm retarded. Thanks Josh. If there are enough threads on the stock bolt, I plan to cut off the same amount as the spacer bracket is thick. It looks like I'll be able to clear the FIAV without the bracket keeping the bolt head where it is now.
The stock studs are not threaded down far enough. You will need to either run a dies down to continue the threads, or get different studs. The studs on the backside of a 90 TB are shorter, and if I remember correctly they will worj just fine.
Quote:
Joe, thanks for the post. We welcome any vendor participation in our little community. You'll find that your presence on the board will eventually help you sell more product, and with constructive feedback, a better product.
I am hoping that becoming an active member of the community will help us improve our kit through feedback from our customers. We've sold a few of these Galant VR4 kits, but rarely hear back from the customers whether anything could have been improved or anything included in the kit to make it easier to install. Your feedback is greatly appreciated.
Quote:
I removed the bracket and cut off the three ends to re-use as spacers at their stock locations. I've got that lower right bolt finger-tight now, but it's impossible to get a wrench on it. There's not enough room around the head of the bolt to even get a wrench head to slide onto it. That aluminum colored piece (below the bolt) with the coolant lines running to it is in the way; I think it's the FIAV. I can't get a socket to it either because the piping prevents a good straight shot to the bolt head. Like I said before, a little more piping running straight off the TB would probably help. I'm going to try to locate a shorter bolt, toss the bracket that I'm using as a spacer and see if that helps with access to the head of the bolt.
I think removing the spacers altogether and using shorter bolts would be the best solution. The spacers move the bolt farther away from the flange and closer to the pipe, making it difficult to get a wrench on the head. I think the placement of the bolt is just in a bad place. Do you think a shorter bolt with a smaller head would fit better, or a bolt with an allen head would be better?
Quote:
I think I'm going to take you up on this offer Joe. I'll contact you off-list about it. Most of us with cars in this state of modification (probably half the members on the board) have moved the battery to the trunk and are taking cool air from behind the passenger headlight using some sort of simple 1G intake pipe. Most of us run recirc too, just like stock. Even if I had my stock BPV mounted on your flange, it's still too close to being INSIDE the fan shroud. Just an inch or two farther up the pipe would be perfect. You should consider offering an intake pipe that allows the MAS to be positioned behind the headlight. The following picture illustrates the typical MAS placement in a modified GVR4:
Since we have a GVR4 here, I will see if we have it long enough to build a new intake kit for it which relocates it to the fender where the battery normally is.. We will also try a couple bolt options on that lower bolt to see what would be easier to get to and tighten down.
Quote:
The last picture is of the inside of the pipe off the turbo, where it expands to a larger diameter and then bends to run parallel to the radiator. There was some welding rod on the inside at the seam.
That is not acceptable. This should have been noticed and deburred during the build process and the cleaning process. I will be sure to go over this with our shop and make sure all of the pipes are inspected. I believe since this was a stainless kit, the pre-powdercoat inspection was not done since that is the time when the piping is deburred. We will send you a new blow off valve pipe and a new J-Pipe. We will 2 day air it to you so you have it by the weekend so you can go out and have some fun..
Here is a picture of the original kit we built and built our jigs off of. We will be fitting our piping on this new Galant and see if there are any other options for blow off valve location. We located the flange where it is to allow it to recirc with our intake pipe, and we built our intake pipe to make our kit as "bolt on" as possible (ie not having to relocate the battery). That's one of the key points we try to make with our kits (any kit) is the least amount of modification for fitment. Building another intake for those that don't mind relocating the battery would be a good option.
Quote:
I sent an email to you all yesterday with my suggestions to make it a slightly better fitting kit. Take or leave any/all of my comments.
I have not received an email, but we have been having issues with our mail server. If you sent it to [email protected] or [email protected] I'm sure we will receive it. If you sent it to our old aol or netzero account, we may not receive it.
Joe Schesso
Extreme Turbo Systems
Joe, thanks for the post. We welcome any vendor participation in our little community. You'll find that your presence on the board will eventually help you sell more product, and with constructive feedback, a better product.
I am hoping that becoming an active member of the community will help us improve our kit through feedback from our customers. We've sold a few of these Galant VR4 kits, but rarely hear back from the customers whether anything could have been improved or anything included in the kit to make it easier to install. Your feedback is greatly appreciated.
Quote:
I removed the bracket and cut off the three ends to re-use as spacers at their stock locations. I've got that lower right bolt finger-tight now, but it's impossible to get a wrench on it. There's not enough room around the head of the bolt to even get a wrench head to slide onto it. That aluminum colored piece (below the bolt) with the coolant lines running to it is in the way; I think it's the FIAV. I can't get a socket to it either because the piping prevents a good straight shot to the bolt head. Like I said before, a little more piping running straight off the TB would probably help. I'm going to try to locate a shorter bolt, toss the bracket that I'm using as a spacer and see if that helps with access to the head of the bolt.
I think removing the spacers altogether and using shorter bolts would be the best solution. The spacers move the bolt farther away from the flange and closer to the pipe, making it difficult to get a wrench on the head. I think the placement of the bolt is just in a bad place. Do you think a shorter bolt with a smaller head would fit better, or a bolt with an allen head would be better?
Quote:
I think I'm going to take you up on this offer Joe. I'll contact you off-list about it. Most of us with cars in this state of modification (probably half the members on the board) have moved the battery to the trunk and are taking cool air from behind the passenger headlight using some sort of simple 1G intake pipe. Most of us run recirc too, just like stock. Even if I had my stock BPV mounted on your flange, it's still too close to being INSIDE the fan shroud. Just an inch or two farther up the pipe would be perfect. You should consider offering an intake pipe that allows the MAS to be positioned behind the headlight. The following picture illustrates the typical MAS placement in a modified GVR4:
Since we have a GVR4 here, I will see if we have it long enough to build a new intake kit for it which relocates it to the fender where the battery normally is.. We will also try a couple bolt options on that lower bolt to see what would be easier to get to and tighten down.
Quote:
The last picture is of the inside of the pipe off the turbo, where it expands to a larger diameter and then bends to run parallel to the radiator. There was some welding rod on the inside at the seam.
That is not acceptable. This should have been noticed and deburred during the build process and the cleaning process. I will be sure to go over this with our shop and make sure all of the pipes are inspected. I believe since this was a stainless kit, the pre-powdercoat inspection was not done since that is the time when the piping is deburred. We will send you a new blow off valve pipe and a new J-Pipe. We will 2 day air it to you so you have it by the weekend so you can go out and have some fun..
Here is a picture of the original kit we built and built our jigs off of. We will be fitting our piping on this new Galant and see if there are any other options for blow off valve location. We located the flange where it is to allow it to recirc with our intake pipe, and we built our intake pipe to make our kit as "bolt on" as possible (ie not having to relocate the battery). That's one of the key points we try to make with our kits (any kit) is the least amount of modification for fitment. Building another intake for those that don't mind relocating the battery would be a good option.
Quote:
I sent an email to you all yesterday with my suggestions to make it a slightly better fitting kit. Take or leave any/all of my comments.
I have not received an email, but we have been having issues with our mail server. If you sent it to [email protected] or [email protected] I'm sure we will receive it. If you sent it to our old aol or netzero account, we may not receive it.
Joe Schesso
Extreme Turbo Systems
CP
Well-known member
Thanks Joe. It was nice talking with you on the phone. Based on DSG's (www.dentsport.com) forum presence and drastically increased business during the last year or two, I think you'd benifit from getting active on whatever forum you're looking to sell products to.
As I said, there's no need to send me a cleaned up J-pipe. Mine is fine after the minute or two I spent on it with a carbide bit.
I'm going to see if the 1990 TB bolt (P/N MF241270) that Josh mentioned is in fact shorter and will let you know how that turns out.
With respect to the BPV flange placement, let's see what responses we get here as to ideal placement and go from there. Folks, how far up the pipe should we move the BPV flange? Is there any benifit to having it up near to the throttle body, as opposed to down where it is now? Joe suggested moving it up the pipe quite a bit, to mimick the flange placement on their 1G kit. Though I'd like to keep it down near where it is now so the BVP return tube is as short as possible to the intake pipe. I'm think that moving it 1-2" up the pipe will be plenty, but will have to take a closer look at it tonight.
Comments about the flange placement are encouraged.
As I said, there's no need to send me a cleaned up J-pipe. Mine is fine after the minute or two I spent on it with a carbide bit.
I'm going to see if the 1990 TB bolt (P/N MF241270) that Josh mentioned is in fact shorter and will let you know how that turns out.
With respect to the BPV flange placement, let's see what responses we get here as to ideal placement and go from there. Folks, how far up the pipe should we move the BPV flange? Is there any benifit to having it up near to the throttle body, as opposed to down where it is now? Joe suggested moving it up the pipe quite a bit, to mimick the flange placement on their 1G kit. Though I'd like to keep it down near where it is now so the BVP return tube is as short as possible to the intake pipe. I'm think that moving it 1-2" up the pipe will be plenty, but will have to take a closer look at it tonight.
Comments about the flange placement are encouraged.
Last edited:
iLLeffeKt vr-4
Well-known member
Quote:
With respect to the BPV flange placement, let's see what responses we get here as to ideal placement and go from there. Folks, how far up the pipe should we move the BPV flange? Is there any benifit to having it up near to the throttle body, as opposed to down where it is now? Joe suggested moving it up the pipe quite a bit, to mimick the flange placement on their 1G kit. Though I'd like to keep it down near where it is now so the BVP return tube is as short as possible to the intake pipe.
when i first got my ETS kit i was running a stock intake manifold. few months after i came across a bj's manifold and a 1g NT TB and decided to put them in. however the ETS pipe would not line up anymore plus the elbow would not fit because of the flange on it. however by removing the ETS TB elbow and getting a 45* silicone coupler and turning the ETS pipe around it fit. so now the bov is really close to the TB (maybe 8-10" away). the only downside, if you could call it that, is that the bov return hose is fairly long. i haven't noticed or felt any difference in the way the car feels/drives.
i'll take some pics when i get a chance.
With respect to the BPV flange placement, let's see what responses we get here as to ideal placement and go from there. Folks, how far up the pipe should we move the BPV flange? Is there any benifit to having it up near to the throttle body, as opposed to down where it is now? Joe suggested moving it up the pipe quite a bit, to mimick the flange placement on their 1G kit. Though I'd like to keep it down near where it is now so the BVP return tube is as short as possible to the intake pipe.
when i first got my ETS kit i was running a stock intake manifold. few months after i came across a bj's manifold and a 1g NT TB and decided to put them in. however the ETS pipe would not line up anymore plus the elbow would not fit because of the flange on it. however by removing the ETS TB elbow and getting a 45* silicone coupler and turning the ETS pipe around it fit. so now the bov is really close to the TB (maybe 8-10" away). the only downside, if you could call it that, is that the bov return hose is fairly long. i haven't noticed or felt any difference in the way the car feels/drives.
i'll take some pics when i get a chance.
Last edited:
CP
Well-known member
The 1990 TB bolt (MF241270) IS NOT shorter than the stock bolts. I ended up cutting 1/2" of threads off the new one and it was still a bitch to get fully tight.
atc250r
Staff member
The flange is probably a little thinner than it was on the stock cast elbow and when you combine that with the fact that the brace that goes from the TB to the cam sensor is missing you run into that problem. I wouldn't be suprised if NT DSM TB bolts were a little shorter. I went through this when I put the Brode pipes on my car. Oh, and cutting 1/2" off of the bolt won't help since that only addresses the length issue, you also need to thread the bolt further up towards the head.
John
John
Last edited:
If you tap and die the bolt and the intake manifold you should be able to had tighten it until the lock washer hits the flange, once it does you should be able to use the open end side of a combination wrench to tighten it down. ALWAYS tighten the bolts with the least clearance first, this way you can slide the throttle body and intake pipe as you tighten the bolt for maximum clearance. Also in my book if have to remove any OE bracket for a part that is made to work with OE parts to make it work is incorrectly made in my book (being more difficult, yet still usable, is alright); so things like SMIM and headers don't count since they are of a different design.
On a sidenote...How did you hook up those hella supertones. I put em in my friends sti and they are loud, a supposed 120db.
BluFalcon
Well-known member
I used two spare fuel rail bolts to secure the TB elbow, and TB to the intake manifold after removing the black support bracket and relocating the stud.
Quote:
The 1990 TB bolt (MF241270) IS NOT shorter than the stock bolts. I ended up cutting 1/2" of threads off the new one and it was still a bitch to get fully tight.
Quote:
The 1990 TB bolt (MF241270) IS NOT shorter than the stock bolts. I ended up cutting 1/2" of threads off the new one and it was still a bitch to get fully tight.
CP
Well-known member
Quote:
On a sidenote...How did you hook up those hella supertones. I put em in my friends sti and they are loud, a supposed 120db.
With wires and a relay. They are possibly the worst thing I've bought for this car so far. They crapped out in a few months, and I've heard the reason is that they don't like moisture. The next one is coming from the junkyard...F150 or some other American truck so it's loud and durable.
On a sidenote...How did you hook up those hella supertones. I put em in my friends sti and they are loud, a supposed 120db.
With wires and a relay. They are possibly the worst thing I've bought for this car so far. They crapped out in a few months, and I've heard the reason is that they don't like moisture. The next one is coming from the junkyard...F150 or some other American truck so it's loud and durable.
atc250r
Staff member
1970's Cadillac horn 4TW!!
John
John
Lonewolf64
Well-known member
How is this particular ETS intercooler bolted to the car? I have this same one and I can't figure out where how the core bolts on.
[url=http://www.extremeturbosystem...s.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/34 [/url]
[url=http://www.extremeturbosystem...s.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/34 [/url]
CP
Well-known member
There are two tabs welded to the top of the intercooler that stick out over the front edge a little bit. I used Home Depot L brackets to attach it to the car.
