The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.

Ebay Adjustable rear control arms

JNR

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
9,824
Location
ca
You're Ore-Ida! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Really though, Thanks alot for posting all of that! I think it should be clipped and put into the How-to section for the archives...If I'm ever in the San Diego area, I'll be sure to get you a beer, he he...
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,991
Location
Michigan
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
Looking forward to the parts list. Was there any need to redrill the taper on that ball joint, or was it the same as the stock one?
 

You mean re-ream that balljoint taper? I think they are all on an inch standard, even on metric cars. Two common tapers exist even on racing ball joints: 1.5" and 2" per foot. Hopefully it is one or the other.

tapered reamers
 
Last edited by a moderator:

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,991
Location
Michigan
Yeah, that's what I meant. I don't know what the taper is on our cars, but I didn't think it is common to SAE cars. Maybe it is.

I'll have to look into it.
 

You better post some pictures with your car on the New suspension, I know it looks PIMP!! Even the ladies might check you out if your lucky /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif too bad it's still SLOW!!! J/k just giving you sh*t. Keep up the Great work.
 

I discovered another source for these kind of parts: www.colemanracing.com

Examples:
14" swedged steel tie rod sleeves in 7/8" O.D. & ends with 5/8" RH & LH threads) for $10.85 each
Or 1" O.D. & ends with 3/4" RH & LH threads) for $12.45 each
 

OK basicly...

Quote:
Afco racing website:
2x part # 19514 14" Swaged Steel Tube= 15.60 each
1x part # 30211 GN tie rod end= 15.50 each
1x part # 30212 GN tie rod end= 15.50 each
1x part # 10420 standard steel rod end= 11.85 each
1x part # 10421 standard steel rod end= 11.85 each
Total of $85.90 a pair.

you can substitute part # 10420/10421 with 10424/10425 for $36.70 each.




Thats about 80% complete right there. (dont forget, you will need two right turn jam nuts and to left turn jam nuts)
now, the hard part was getting the needed components to attach it to the car.

If there was such a thing as a Metric Hiem End "Hiem Extension", then this install would be cake... However, there is not.
My solution was to change the fasteners over to "standard".

What I used was a 1/2 inch bolt that was the same measurement as the OEM piece, and went from there.


as you can see from the picture, per arm I used,

one 1/2 inch bolt w/ nut
two split lock washers
three half inch washers that match the diameter of the OEM rear camber adjustment washer *3rd washer is used as spacer* - (see pic and explanation below)
two 1/2 inch Hiem ends
two DIY mounting tabs from performance metal supply. (not nessary)



By using washers that are the same diameter as the stock ones, we can "lock" the new bolt into position.
Using the new washers also deletes the factory adjustably placing the bolt on center BUT, with the AFCO arms you gain much more adjustably than stock.

It is a must that you use washers that have a 1/2 inch hole that is exactly the diameter of your new bolt.

In my case, I couldn't locate a set of washers that had the perfect ID, close but not perfict.
So I had to use two tabs per arm that I got from a performance metal supply, to totally lock in the bolt.

It worked out perfectly.

These arms are very tough. they for sure can stand up to allot of abuse, not like the Ingalls POS arms.
 

Quote:
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif too bad it's still SLOW!!! J/k just giving you sh*t.



It depends on you definition of slow.
I can keep up with my friends EVO through the mountans... except in the straights... and uphill.

I honestly think I could of passed him on a few parts but we had to keep it safe so, no passing.

I really think having a slower car is helping my driving skills.
When I used to do this stuff in the Starion the fun was in the straights due to its power, corners were a bit of a chore (hopefully its new set up will own the Galant)
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Recent Classifieds Listings

Top