Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Awesome, thanks for the info. It will be a nice day when I'm not pissing fuel out everywhere.
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Car Starts but Stalls Immediately after Built Engine Install
- Thread starter Chad989of2000
- Start date
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
I'm done with this stock fuel rail...
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Had to mangle to fittings to get them off the rail. Both rubber o-rings were in rough shape, especially the inlet side (looks almost melted). I was going to just order new -6an fittings and call it a day, but I said screw it and opted for the FIC fuel rail. Reviews look good, and my stock rail has been through hell. Fun.
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Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Installed new FIC fuel rail and that stopped the fuel leaks. Car still takes forever to turn over and won't idle on its own. Maybe a MAF failure. I don't have an extra to swap and test. Anyone know a way to test the MAF?
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thomcasey
Well-known member
Did you ever log the Coolant Temp? That will cause a long crank and hard to no idle issue now that the fuel system is sorted.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
That totally skipped my mind. The wiring looks solid, but the sensor may be original. Will test when I can carve out some garage time.
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thomcasey
Well-known member
Most of the time the sensor is good. The 26 yr old wiring is the issue. Predominately, the sensor ground (green w/black line) is the culprit.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Coolant Temp looks good in ECMLink. Wiring also looks good. Does the Timing value look odd?
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Disregard the timing number...it displayed 5 degrees once the car was cranked.
I'm thinking TPS and Coolant Temp Sensor are good. I'm going to look to test the MAF next. Everything else is checking out fine.
I'm thinking TPS and Coolant Temp Sensor are good. I'm going to look to test the MAF next. Everything else is checking out fine.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Screen grab of cranking with no start in ECMLink.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Do the EVO MAFs use the same connecting harness as the 482 MAFs? Looks like I have to source another MAF to test.
Yes, the wiring and connector are the same.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
That's good to know, thank you sir.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Abridged Recap:
-New built motor and trans install
-Car started hard (really long and multiple cranks to get going)
-Car Sat for 2 years
-Replace all fuel components and changed from E85 to pump
Current Status:
-Fuel pressure is good, spark is good, freshly cleaned injectors (FIC)
-Car starts hard (really long and multiple cranks to get going)
-ECMLink shows coolant temp sensor reading normal (wiring looks good)
Next check will be replacing MAF and checking the ISC again. Anyone every try the unbranded 482 MAFs on eBay...I'm a little skeptical...probably just gonna scoop a used Mitsu unit just to be safe.
-New built motor and trans install
-Car started hard (really long and multiple cranks to get going)
-Car Sat for 2 years
-Replace all fuel components and changed from E85 to pump
Current Status:
-Fuel pressure is good, spark is good, freshly cleaned injectors (FIC)
-Car starts hard (really long and multiple cranks to get going)
-ECMLink shows coolant temp sensor reading normal (wiring looks good)
Next check will be replacing MAF and checking the ISC again. Anyone every try the unbranded 482 MAFs on eBay...I'm a little skeptical...probably just gonna scoop a used Mitsu unit just to be safe.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Tried another working MAF with no luck. I’m stumped.
gvr4ever
Well-known member
Went back and browsed the thread. Run a boost leak test. I didn't see that it was done. It's basic, but run a new one even if you did one some time ago.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
Quoting Chad989of2000:
That totally skipped my mind. The wiring looks solid, but the sensor may be original. Will test when I can carve out some garage time.
so you see how there are two wires that are the same color and tracer.... try switching them around. i have had this happen.
That totally skipped my mind. The wiring looks solid, but the sensor may be original. Will test when I can carve out some garage time.
so you see how there are two wires that are the same color and tracer.... try switching them around. i have had this happen.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting gvr4ever:</font><hr />
Went back and browsed the thread. Run a boost leak test. I didn't see that it was done. It's basic, but run a new one even if you did one some time ago.
<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">
That’s actiually a good idea...I’ve certainly had things apart so it’s worth a re-test.
Went back and browsed the thread. Run a boost leak test. I didn't see that it was done. It's basic, but run a new one even if you did one some time ago.
<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">
That’s actiually a good idea...I’ve certainly had things apart so it’s worth a re-test.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
Quoting transparentdsm:
Quoting Chad989of2000:
That totally skipped my mind. The wiring looks solid, but the sensor may be original. Will test when I can carve out some garage time.
so you see how there are two wires that are the same color and tracer.... try switching them around. i have had this happen.
That seems easy enough. Link showed the correct coolant temp so I assumed it was functioning/set up correctly. I will give it a shot, thanks.
Quoting Chad989of2000:
That totally skipped my mind. The wiring looks solid, but the sensor may be original. Will test when I can carve out some garage time.
so you see how there are two wires that are the same color and tracer.... try switching them around. i have had this happen.
That seems easy enough. Link showed the correct coolant temp so I assumed it was functioning/set up correctly. I will give it a shot, thanks.
Chad989of2000
Well-known member
I tried swapping the coolant temp sensor wires, and nothing changed. Put them back to the way I had them as that must have been correct. On to boost leak testing...
