BoV suggestions (flutter dump w/ stock BOV) - Resolved w/ Dodge Mod

[tektic]

That makes more sense to me, and it is how mine is currently set up.

I am seeing people suggest plumbing the new added port to either port 3 on the the throttle body or to the fpr and adjust for throttle position like nos control settings.

Anyone experimented with this?

Edit: what about a t after the boost controler. That way its slightly less pressure then it would see in the ic pipe?

 

[EfiniX]

Quoting EHmotorsports:
His BOV is plumed to the port behind the throttle plate. The tapped nipple is vented to atmosphere.

If it is not that way any longer I will be having some questions for him tomorrow when I see the car.



The BoV stock vac line goes to the TB, but the new vac line goes to the new barb on the turbo outlet, right? I thought we did this because it's what gets you the fast-release?

I guess I should have looked. Either way, listen to Evan. He did the work /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[tektic]

The way your describing makes it operate just as stock.

 

[EfiniX]

From the dodge mod instructions:

"A quick tip because this has come up already: The upper part of the B.O.V. MUST AT ALL TIMES be connected to a vacuum/boost source behind the throttle body that has full engine vacuum when the engine is at idle. The new port you just added MUST be hooked to the turbo's outlet barb or somewhere in the intercooling tubing for the BOV to work correctly in fast release mode. Or you could just leave the port open to outside air but you loose the fast release feature which is fun for scaring the hell out of honda drivers ;-) "

Stock control = stock location
New barb = as close to the turbo outlet as you can get

Or out to atmosphere, but if you are getting flutter dump, I'd imagine you would be looking for the quick-release implementation.

 

[tektic]

With port conected to T before mbc all surging stuttering and noise has gone away. Boost creep is also gon and car now only boosts to what the mbc is set for.

Has anyone tried connecting a T after their mbc? I'd like to experiment but already broke one T and would rather have a spare on hand before I atempt this myself. I think it would hold a little more boost and hopefully still open pretty fast. Just speculation though.

 

[EfiniX]

Here's how I've got mine setup. It's a little hard to get everything into the same frame, so I've color-coded the vac lines.

Yellow = direct to turbo pipe port
Red = MBC line
Green = Wastegate line
Purple = Dodge Mod BoV lower (new) port
White = BoV upper (stock) port to intake manifold



This setup works great @ 23psi

I'm not sure what you mean by "after" the MBC. Are you talking about putting a T between the MBC and the wastegate actuator?

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Are you guys not using a mac pneumatic valve?

 

[EfiniX]

I've got a Hallman MBC. I'm guessing your question about mac valves is a question about whether or not we're using a solenoid for boost control? Not sure how that factors into a discussion about BoV's, but that could just be my own lack of experience.

 

[tektic]

I have mine set up the same way now. I was talking about moving the T as you decribe. I guess I can just turn the knob a few more times to get back to 23psi, but I feel like the bov is opening under boost now. I'm not using any sort of solenoid for control of this port. I was hoping I could use the post boost control signal to keep it closed a little longer. I'll buy another T and try it out in a day or two. Just wondered if anyone tried this before.

 

[SleepinGVR4]

The dodge mod from Dejon came with a MAC pneumatic valve. Damn I've driven a GVR4 way to long.

 

[tektic]

How was that connected and when did it actuate?

 

[SleepinGVR4]

I've been running it for years now and I forget. I'll post a picture of it tomorrow when there is day light.

 

[strokin4dr]

Having the boost source routed back to the new lower nipple is effectively defeating the purpose of modding the valve in the first place. It is essentially working exactly like the stock configuration without having the mentioned MAC valve in place.
I modded my stock valve the same way you did, but I just left the new nipple open to atmosphere. At cruising boost levels and part throttle, I do get some flutter sound, but at WOT (32 psi on a 20g) it holds rock solid and performs great.
I'm not worried about the partial throttle boost flutter. GN's and SyTy's have been boosting for years with no issue. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Quoting EfiniX:
Here's how I've got mine setup. It's a little hard to get everything into the same frame, so I've color-coded the vac lines.

Yellow = direct to turbo pipe port
Red = MBC line
Green = Wastegate line
Purple = Dodge Mod BoV lower (new) port
White = BoV upper (stock) port to intake manifold



This setup works great @ 23psi

I'm not sure what you mean by "after" the MBC. Are you talking about putting a T between the MBC and the wastegate actuator?

 

[EfiniX]

As stated earlier, from the Dodge Garage instructions...


"A quick tip because this has come up already: The upper part of the B.O.V. MUST AT ALL TIMES be connected to a vacuum/boost source behind the throttle body that has full engine vacuum when the engine is at idle. The new port you just added MUST be hooked to the turbo's outlet barb or somewhere in the intercooling tubing for the BOV to work correctly in fast release mode. Or you could just leave the port open to outside air but you loose the fast release feature which is fun for scaring the hell out of honda drivers ;-) "

Stock control = stock location
New barb = as close to the turbo outlet as you can get

 

[tektic]

Yes I'd like to see that set up. Hopefully I can copy it.

I had drivability issues. The noise was cool, I couldn't tollerate the stuttering and surging though.

 

[strokin4dr]

You're not getting it.
The way you have the new nipple connected is defeating the purpose of the mod.

If you were to have a solenoid inline that would close off the boost source to this new nipple (when positive pressure), then the bov would be able to hold more boost than stock. The reason for the solenoid would be for quick release operation. Yes... I know, yours is set up for quick release because it is basically a stock setup. You just moved the boost source from the bottom port to a new external nipple; nothing else. The solenoid would allow for same quick operation you have now, but would also allow it to hold high boost.
I boost leak tested my modded valve with an open boost reference to the new nipple and it leaks at 21 psi, just like when it was stock. BLT with new nipple to atmosphere (same thing you would see with a solenoid when there is positive pressure being made) and it holds 40 psi during the test. Test your setup. Guarantee your valve cracks open before 25 psi.

There is a reason Dejon included an inline valve with their modded setup if you wanted the best of both worlds.

Not trying to dis your setup, but I don't want to see misinformation spread on the board. If it works for you, great! But so would a stock bov the way it's set up now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif



Quoting EfiniX:
As stated earlier, from the Dodge Garage instructions...


"A quick tip because this has come up already: The upper part of the B.O.V. MUST AT ALL TIMES be connected to a vacuum/boost source behind the throttle body that has full engine vacuum when the engine is at idle. The new port you just added MUST be hooked to the turbo's outlet barb or somewhere in the intercooling tubing for the BOV to work correctly in fast release mode. Or you could just leave the port open to outside air but you loose the fast release feature which is fun for scaring the hell out of honda drivers ;-) "

Stock control = stock location
New barb = as close to the turbo outlet as you can get

 

[tektic]

I am getting it. It is undrivable with the mod and no solenoid. This is why I'm asking about alternative hookups.

So the solenoid is presure activated over atmosphere?

 

[strokin4dr]

I wasn't referring to you.

Yes, the solenoid could be used with an external pressure switch.
My plan was to use one of ecmlink's programable outputs to control it, but I ended up not doing it since it worked great with the nipple open to atmosphere. I'll try adding the solenoid when my new turbo shows up to compare the difference and report back.

 

[EfiniX]

FWIW, this mod resolved my flutter dump/compressor surge as-is. If it's just like stock, I couldn't account for why tis mod fixed my problem. Not saying you're wrong, just relaying my experience.

 

[strokin4dr]

Sounds like you had multiple issues going on perviously though. I'm glad it works for you, but I just didn't want others to think it's a "mod" when configured that way. I may have missed it but what is you boost pressure set at?