blacksheep
Well-known member
Is that NSX yours, Northern ? You and I did it the same way, crap I wasted all this time taking pics for Hertz! Just kidding, I will do up a VFAQ as well on my site...
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Battery Relocation to Trunk
- Thread starter Hertz
- Start date
Ha sorry, you were going to town with the pictures I debated even posting the link. Very similar method for routing used though and it works great.
And the NSX mine? No.
And the NSX mine? No.
turbowop
Well-known member
quote:Originally posted by Hertz:
Also, anyone (Mark?) have suggestions as to a good place to get terminals for 0 gauge?I bought mine at an auto-electric store in town.
Also, anyone (Mark?) have suggestions as to a good place to get terminals for 0 gauge?I bought mine at an auto-electric store in town.
Hertz
Staff member
Alright, I just ordered a Bussman 135 amp circuit breaker and a couple terminals from darvex.com.
ken inn
Well-known member
quote:Before anyone asks why it looks all wet and shiny, I washed it after I took that liner off, I am allergic to dust and dirt. Yes, like turbowop! ahhh, but the T-wop would also have polished the spring and strut. AND, armor all the fender liner.
blacksheep
Well-known member
Hertz, pull the seat back off and go down the bottom side of it...There is a hole back there that is a pass-thru covered with factory sound-deadening as well.
Fine - I will post a pic for ya tonite !
I havent run wires yet. I need to run wires for my amp and speakers and do some sound deadening stuff. I want the car to be as quite as a church.
Check car stereo places for the terminals.
I got a 120A breaker and 2 gold-plated battery terminals from ebay. The + side of the terminal has a 1/2 gauge input and a 2 8 gauge outputs from my fuel pump and amp.
I may put a distribution block up front for the proposed HID's and the under-hood crap!
Fine - I will post a pic for ya tonite !
I havent run wires yet. I need to run wires for my amp and speakers and do some sound deadening stuff. I want the car to be as quite as a church.
Check car stereo places for the terminals.
I got a 120A breaker and 2 gold-plated battery terminals from ebay. The + side of the terminal has a 1/2 gauge input and a 2 8 gauge outputs from my fuel pump and amp.
I may put a distribution block up front for the proposed HID's and the under-hood crap!
quote:Originally posted by Hertz:
Okay, I got the wire threaded through into the car, and I follow that nice little passthough in the forward seat rail -- now, how do I get around the seatbelt (auto) behind the passenger seat? I want to go over it (easy) but it looks like it could interfere with the belt. Anyone go under it?
Ryan,
I actually snaked mine under the seatbelt, and if I remember correctly, between the where the B-pillar attaches to the floor and the rocker panel. May have had to unbolt the belt lower section to make that happen. I also used that plastic cover under the rear seat to route the cable under for protection at the rear seat ledge.
Okay, I got the wire threaded through into the car, and I follow that nice little passthough in the forward seat rail -- now, how do I get around the seatbelt (auto) behind the passenger seat? I want to go over it (easy) but it looks like it could interfere with the belt. Anyone go under it?
I actually snaked mine under the seatbelt, and if I remember correctly, between the where the B-pillar attaches to the floor and the rocker panel. May have had to unbolt the belt lower section to make that happen. I also used that plastic cover under the rear seat to route the cable under for protection at the rear seat ledge.
DarkDevilMMM
Well-known member
there is a cover on the seat belt, you can pull the cover off and go around from there....
but I got another question for u guys, for the battery holder in the trunk, did u guys weld the holder to the trunk? or bolt it? which bolt? did u guys drill holes for the bolt? and what kind of battery holder are u guys using? easy to install? part number? thanks.
but I got another question for u guys, for the battery holder in the trunk, did u guys weld the holder to the trunk? or bolt it? which bolt? did u guys drill holes for the bolt? and what kind of battery holder are u guys using? easy to install? part number? thanks.
Hertz
Staff member
I'm going (for now) the non-track-legal way. I've got a heavy plywood perch (glued, screwed and lagged) and then bolted to the trunk at the bumper mounts. The perch is cut-to-fit for that area, so it is also snugged in. It cantalevers over the bottomless pit above the muffler -- sitting on the housing for the side marker.
Imagine this battery tucked back more towards the fender. (this is Marks car, just as a reference)
The box is of the heavy PVC variety and is unfortunately only held down by the usual nylon strapping. The whole box also wedges into position, but could use some more lateral holding. The two plastic "bridges" for the nylon strap is not quite engineered enough for me, however the wood base is very stout. Eventually I'll go the sealed metal box route, perhaps like Mark's though the wood probably isn't regulation it will make a good template to fab up a metal version.
I got the zero gauge cabling (welding), grommets and clips, split loom, battery connectors, 4 terminals (attached on ends), and box for something like $40 on eBay.
Imagine this battery tucked back more towards the fender. (this is Marks car, just as a reference)
The box is of the heavy PVC variety and is unfortunately only held down by the usual nylon strapping. The whole box also wedges into position, but could use some more lateral holding. The two plastic "bridges" for the nylon strap is not quite engineered enough for me, however the wood base is very stout. Eventually I'll go the sealed metal box route, perhaps like Mark's though the wood probably isn't regulation it will make a good template to fab up a metal version.
I got the zero gauge cabling (welding), grommets and clips, split loom, battery connectors, 4 terminals (attached on ends), and box for something like $40 on eBay.
turbowop
Well-known member
DarkDevilMMM:
My tray is held down to the floor of the trunk where you see it with four bolts. There are washers and nuts on the underside of the car. From there J-bolts hold the battery down to the tray. It's not NHRA legal as it sits. I just need to fab up a box, hold it down the same way I have the current tray held down and then use 3/8" rod to secure the battery to the box. So far the tech guys at my local track have let me slide but that was last year. They told me that by this year I better have something more legal.
My tray is held down to the floor of the trunk where you see it with four bolts. There are washers and nuts on the underside of the car. From there J-bolts hold the battery down to the tray. It's not NHRA legal as it sits. I just need to fab up a box, hold it down the same way I have the current tray held down and then use 3/8" rod to secure the battery to the box. So far the tech guys at my local track have let me slide but that was last year. They told me that by this year I better have something more legal.
I actually have gone without a battery box. I scrapped the plastic one in my pictures and replaced it with an Optima Red Top (same as turbowop's). The positive battery cable I ran is the right size where it holds the battery in place, close to the back of the rear seats. Hasn't moved around on me yet.
Hey Hertz or Turbowap, could one of you guys post a pic of how the cables are connected to the original harnesses in the engine area and how you secured them? Appreciate it. Thanks.
Aaron
Aaron
Here's a photo of how I did it. the red cable is the one from the battery. The cable is secured with a big black tie-wrap to something under the fuses/relay box.
My setup looks similar and I've never been happy with it. I'd like to replace that black battery post fuse box with a distribution block and fuses. However, with the range of fuses, I can't find one size that can do it all. For instance, we have a high one (100 amp for alt I think) and one around 15 or so. There simply isn't any one fuse size that has that kind of range. I've love to use the standard blade type, but they only go up to 35 or so. The next size bigger, those maxi ones, still won't do it all. And when you get to the next size bigger, it won't do the low amp sizes. I don't remember numbers and details but you get the idea.
If someone comes up with a good clean setup, let me know as I'd like to see it. It would be nice if it had a charging post too.
Mark
If someone comes up with a good clean setup, let me know as I'd like to see it. It would be nice if it had a charging post too.
Mark
Harry, the bolt method is exactly how mine is as well. Only difference is that I have black electrical tape around mine so that errant tools don't burn my car down...
Mark
Mark
Hertz
Staff member
In that middle picture:
clicky
the middle wire (to alternator?) I broke the terminal off... the copper end was very thin and had a crack across the bend (which came all the way off).
It looks like Harry may have redone his. I bought a 0 gauge terminal end (set-screw type)... am I correct in thinking I can just peel back the boot, maybe pry off the existing crimp-on and re-attach this terminal?
The end on the fuse box (also looks to me like Harry replaced his, unless 92's are different) is about to suffer the same fate, it is missing the tabs on the sides of the terminal, the material is copper, edges are rounded and it looks like it is getting thinner!
the middle wire (to alternator?) I broke the terminal off... the copper end was very thin and had a crack across the bend (which came all the way off).
It looks like Harry may have redone his. I bought a 0 gauge terminal end (set-screw type)... am I correct in thinking I can just peel back the boot, maybe pry off the existing crimp-on and re-attach this terminal?
The end on the fuse box (also looks to me like Harry replaced his, unless 92's are different) is about to suffer the same fate, it is missing the tabs on the sides of the terminal, the material is copper, edges are rounded and it looks like it is getting thinner!
Last edited:
blacksheep
Well-known member
Hertz - where exactly did it break off? If the seperate wire that goes to the battery terminal broke off, yeah you could just replace the end connector. If its At the bottom of the fuse box, You can take that fuse box fully apart, read below! You need to buy yourself a digital camera, fou!
Mark - I am with you here. I wanna use an inline fuse as well.
I tried to re-do this auxillary fuse box in vain when I was re-wiring the battery to trunk. I dont have manual seat belts or ABS, so I pulled 3 of the 4 fuses out. All that remains is a 100A fuse under alternator.
So, for shits and giggles, I took that fuse box apart and unscrewed the terminals on the ABS (red positive and white negative). The car would not start. Basically, without the red and white connected although it was marked ABS. No fuse there. No idea why? anyone?
On the 100A middle one, there is a mess of wires running to it including another red,white and blue wire, I didnt wanna mess with it. I will have someone who can tell me help me do this better.
IMHO, the whole harness will need taken apart to figure out exactly where each wire goes unless someone can decipher what all those wires are.
Mark - I am with you here. I wanna use an inline fuse as well.
I tried to re-do this auxillary fuse box in vain when I was re-wiring the battery to trunk. I dont have manual seat belts or ABS, so I pulled 3 of the 4 fuses out. All that remains is a 100A fuse under alternator.
So, for shits and giggles, I took that fuse box apart and unscrewed the terminals on the ABS (red positive and white negative). The car would not start. Basically, without the red and white connected although it was marked ABS. No fuse there. No idea why? anyone?
On the 100A middle one, there is a mess of wires running to it including another red,white and blue wire, I didnt wanna mess with it. I will have someone who can tell me help me do this better.
IMHO, the whole harness will need taken apart to figure out exactly where each wire goes unless someone can decipher what all those wires are.
i also relocated my battery to the trunk. used a fused block in the front but had to also use a breaker 100amp for alt. i used 3 60amp fuses (best i could do) at first i had the alt with a 60 amp fuse but once winter hit i kept blowing the fuse. i have been having problems with the starting of the car and i suspected that the bumper bolt i am using is no good, and a previous post confirms it. i will use the strut bolt. good thing i searched and found this thread. Thanks guys for you help. poked a hole through the rubber part of the steering column (couldn't find a better route at the time). and ran the wire underneath the seat belt pillar. and have a 120 amp breaker near the battery. hope this helped a bit. Thanks again
Hertz
Staff member
I replaced my broken alt wire terminal (I mentioned above) with a new 0-gauge terminal. First I hacked off the end (-3 inches) with a coping saw... I was surprised to find that the corrosion (or whatever it is called) had made its way down that far. You know, that white powdery mess. The copper strands of the wire looked good, but a little discolored. I spent a few minutes trying to clean up the wire. I have not yet started the car, so I don't know if I'm going to get charging voltage or not. I assume so.
I took some pics of my install and will post when I get them developed.
I took some pics of my install and will post when I get them developed.
