The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.

801/2k Restomod

My idealized version of a Galant VR4

bobdole

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
875
Location
U.K.
Thanks. Your build is looking great too.
 
Last edited:

Drew84

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
240
Location
Peabody, Ma
I found some Earl's AN fittings in the Jeg's catalog to solve my problem. These compression fit over the metal line converted it to a -6 an fitting. I this on the sending unit and the line on the body.


IMG_0949 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

I then used Earl's 360 degree fittings with Pro 350 hose, It has a nylon outer and that make's it easier to use than the braided steel line. Plus this hose is not in an area where it needs a lot of protection from abrasion.


IMG_0951 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Reinstalled the check valve


IMG_0952 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0954 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

I forgot to take a picture of the rest of the exhaust installed, I will do that later.

IMG_0950 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr
 

ApexHunter

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
1,992
Location
Marysville, WA
I also painted the muffler black and masked off the tips. I like it a lot better, i'm not much a fan of the big shiny muffler thing for a number of reasons, primarily attracting unwanted attention from LEO's.

I have a 3" CMPE system as well. Mine is old, i got it 2nd hand, and i don't recall if the guy i bought it from got it new. In any event, piping is 3", uses a magnaflow 3" in/out. It uses the Y-Pipe style twin tip. Maybe CMPE only recently started using twin tip mufflers for their 3" systems. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

Drew84

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
240
Location
Peabody, Ma
Been busy lately I went on vacation for Christmas, yada, yada, yada. Anyway I got the car running before Thanksgiving.

Some update pictures

Exhaust painted and installed


IMG_0955 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0956 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0957 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0958 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

I painted the front radiator support


IMG_0959 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0960 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

My mismashed intake setup

IMG_0961 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

I found a Napa hose to used for the BOV return

IMG_0965 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0962 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0966 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0967 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0968 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Stock inter cooler with a DSM lower inter cooler hose, eventually I will get the JDM inter cooler set up right. It needs some slight modifying, one of the brackets is bent. But this works nicely for now.

IMG_0969 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_0970 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr
 
Last edited:

Drew84

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
240
Location
Peabody, Ma
I pretty much took a break from the car for the last month. Plus I got a new puppy that's been taking up much of my free time.

I decided to tackle the front control arms, ball joints, and bumper. I picked up an uncut front bumper in sweet condition for short money. Including fog lights.

This is the before ride height, I don't have an after picture yet.

IMG_0982 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Removing the mystery springs with the rotten bumpstops.

IMG_0984 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

They had the consistency of sponge cake.

IMG_0985 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Very strange blue paint. These are not Eibachs as I was told when I bought the car.

IMG_0986 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Side by side with the new H&Rs.

IMG_0987 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

All swapped over with remnants of the old ABS sensor.

IMG_0992 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

All re-installed

IMG_0988 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Mystery solved, these are Whitelines. The finish is in really rough shape. I've never seen springs rust like this. A/M or factory.


IMG_0997 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Before

IMG_1016 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

During

IMG_1019 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

After

IMG_1020 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

I didn't finish the front lower arms yet. The big bolt through the subframe up into the body on both sides was stubborn. We didn't get it free till late in the evening. I'm going to finish those up tonight. Along with the outer tie rods.
 

Drew84

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
240
Location
Peabody, Ma
We got the bolts loose and pulled the arms out. Old rear bushings


IMG_1027 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Old ball joints

IMG_1024 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

New Dorman arms

IMG_1021 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

I pulled those bushings and replaced them with the Whiteline extra caster bushings.

IMG_1023 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1028 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Arms are installed

IMG_1029 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1049 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

The Wheel bearings had to much play so we replaced them.

IMG_1046 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Old tie rod ends

IMG_1018 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

New tie rod ends

IMG_1046 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1048 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

I also swapped out the rear whiteline springs for the H&Rs, I like the rake and I like the softer ride.

IMG_1069 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

My dad and I are having some drama with the T-case, both spares had seized center bearings that ruined the Aluminum case. It made the center bearings too loose in the housing. Instead of having to press them in they could slide in and out by hand. So I ordered a new center t-case section from Mitsubishi. So the next time I update this the car should have plates and be on the road.
 

mooserage

Staff member
Joined
May 17, 2004
Messages
1,293
Location
Seattle, WA
Forgot a bracket /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Fixed:
Quote:
Bonus Puppy picture

404670_694460339309_55803668_34163616_1791881644_n.jpg


 
Last edited:

Drew84

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
240
Location
Peabody, Ma
I wet sanded and polished the turn signals,

IMG_1085 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1086 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Then I used Dupilcolor Metalcast orange and painted them Amber.

IMG_1087 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Before

IMG_1088 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

After

IMG_1090 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

USDM side markers installed.

USDM side markers installed by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Also I am a fan of the stock badges so I put them all back on and polished up the tailights. I also added a Late model Galant Ralliart badge.

Polished tail lamps and new emblems by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr
 

Drew84

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
240
Location
Peabody, Ma
I did a couple more things before I put it on the road. I put all the badges back on.



IMG_1108 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1109 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1110 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1111 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1112 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Brand new center section for the T-case. The other case had the center bearing seize and spin inside the race and wear the aluminum away.


IMG_1124 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

New Lock nut

IMG_1125 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1126 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Difficult to tell from the picture but the gears are not 1:1, when you line them up at the marks and spin them. 1 revolution does not bring it back to the same spot. I think it took three spins, I should have counted but I didn't.

IMG_1127 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1128 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

The input gears had a nice mesh pattern,

IMG_1129 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

All assembled back up. New seals on both ends. Spins nice and smooth.


IMG_1130 by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


Untitled by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


IMG_1131[1] by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr
 
Last edited:

Drew84

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2010
Messages
240
Location
Peabody, Ma
Grooved timing belt anybody ?

oh snap by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

I pulled the plastic cover off for pure vanity reasons. It got scratched by the hood insulator and I wanted to repaint it. I found one of the rubber seals had turned to hard plastic from all the years of heat cycles. It fell and jammed against the belt and wore a groove in it. Crazy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/roll.gif

I was working on these wheels this weekend. I had them sent from Poland. Yes they say Nissan. But, the wheels are 4x114.3, the hub bore is 66.1 a Nissan hub bore, so I bought an extra Galant hub to send to the machine shop. So these can be opened up to 67.1. Specs on the wheels are 4x114.3, 15x7, et38, 20lbs each. A nice sturdy rally wheel.


Untitled by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr


Untitled by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

Getting them prepped and read for paint.

Untitled by Drew84(PASCARPHOTO), on Flickr

When these are finished they will look like this
tumblr_m2mm9zh0FT1qixb61o1_500.jpg


Just imagine them clean

24 Aug 10 006 by Koopa.kodakgold, on Flickr
 

ApexHunter

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
1,992
Location
Marysville, WA
Excellent wheel choice sir, i believe it will go well with the overall concept. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Recent Classifieds Listings

Top