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#740/1000 BUILD

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Except that those brake line adapters say bubble flare for the female side too, which is not correct. Your car lines are double inverted flares, not bubble.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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I would want to see the inside of them to be certain, but I suspect I am correct based on what the package says.
 

Fiascoxl

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Yeah they are bubble on the female side. So this means I have them reversed right? Should be m10x1 bubble male and m10x1 female double flare correct?
 

iceman69510

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Should be as you stated last. Looks like the set you have is both ends bubble flare.
 

Fiascoxl

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Here are some better pics of the fittings, I think the description was backwards or something. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Oh well, they were only 8 bucks shipped.



I see why the concept of the factory double flare working on the bubble flare of the master will work, but the area of sealing surface is tiny compared to the proper fitting.




I just realized that my buddy told me earlier this week when I met him for lunch that he bought some really expensive flaring tool. I think I am gonna just cut the ends off and just flare them to the correct bubble flare for the 3g master cylinder. How much fluid do you think it is gonna take to completely bleed all four corners and the new master? I'm going to be using Motul rbf600 but I am open to suggestions.
 
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iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Reflaring and reusing the nuts is a good idea (if they are good condition).

I would get a pint at least.
 

Fiascoxl

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Talked to my buddy and he said he could flare them whenever I want, so that solves that problem. Yes I will be bench bleeding the master, if you think two will be enough I'll go ahead and get two bottles.
 

Fiascoxl

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Still looking for Outlander caliper brackets but it seems I may just end up buying new complete calipers. The Outlander swap is getting put on the back burner for now and I am gearing up to finally get the car repainted! My buddy will be spraying the car and doing what little body work that needs to be done on it as well. Labor free I will be able to explore a few more options on what needs to be done and needed to be replaced.

Right now very high on my to do list for the respray is acquiring pretty much all the glass moldings and the roof moldings. Mine are intact for the most part but they look like crap from being resprayed and the plastic on the curved ends is pulling apart from them. Does anyone on here know if these are still available OEM or aftermarket? Hopefully I can find these pieces either new or extremely mint. Like I said before nothing is coming out of pocket except for supplies and paint so I can make the most out of this and have the car looking like it did when it came off the dealership lot once again!
 
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Fiascoxl

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Well for the first time this car has failed to get me home from work tonight. The clutch has been acting weird the past few weeks and engagement has been unpredictable. This has culminated into what I can only guess right now is a broken clutch disc or pressure plate. The used ACT 2600 pressure plate (old style) and South Bend Organic/Feramic have more than met my expectations and have been rock solid through all the abuse of the past 30k miles I have put on #740.

The trans seems to be stuck engaged which seems like a spring may have logged in between the pp and disc. Right now I am trying to decide whether to stick with another OFE disc or go to something a little more aggressive. I'm also looking to change out the tired pressure plate too, maybe a 2900 this time. Pics of the carnage to come, hopefully it was contained and didn't damage the inside of the trans. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

Fiascoxl

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Well I got the trans out and the TOB gave up on me in dramatic fashion. I was almost 100% positive that the TOB was a OEM unit because I know full well the problems of running anything other. I received the trans with it attached and seen that it was still very clean and still spun tight so I think I assumed that it being a TRE stage 4 trans that the PO had a OEM on it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Upon further inspection the clutch is severely worn. The pressure plate has stress cracks as well as the flywheel, and the clutch disc is almost down to the rivets on the organic side and missing a few bits on the feramic side. The broken pieces of the TOB beat up the inside of the bell housing a little and actually put a tiny crack in it.






















 

Fiascoxl

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Stuarts Draft, Va
I finally found some Outlander caliper brackets at a reasonable price! After pulling the trigger on some really expensive OEM brackets through JNZ I was informed that they were unavailable at the moment(they have a few in stock as of now though). So I got a refund for them and have been patiently waiting since.

Earlier this week I checked good old ebay for a set and low and behold there they were for 35.95 a piece with free shipping! Funny thing is the same vendor had these around the same time I tried to purchase the OEM units through JNZ and he had them listed for 275 a piece! Don't know what that's about, maybe he was out of stock or something?

Anyway they're here and are correct and great quality. So if anyone else is looking for a set as well he still has a few left. click
 

Fiascoxl

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Well I put the car on the dyno today up at EFI Specialties in Stafford, VA. For a last second late night tune and crazy rich afr's it met my goal. End result on 35lbs was 489hp and 405tq. The tune needs a lot fuel pulled out and it shows at the top off the graph where it fell off and was very rich.










 
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LIV4PSI

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Car looks good on the dyno. Good numbers too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 
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