Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Quoting turbohf:
ok, so i drove her to work today (~50miles round trip, city/freeway/traffic) and she did great. stupid CEL was going crazy with some what i assume is false knock from my sh*t lifters. but other than that was doing ok.
buddy hit me back and said to swing by after work to do a quick flat rate tune on her. took one look at the MAFT, double checked it was plugged in and wondered off, came back with a ecmlink gm maf harness. he went threw all the settings and i was trying to keep up and understand what was going on. fired right off. went out and did some driving and was pretty spot on. did some roll ins to boost, quick adjusts. tried some pulls but the lifters are fubar. they just need replaced. did manage to get some pulls in.
so...
-gonna need to swap to speed density obviously
-lifters goes without saying?
-he suggested cams. said not needed (i have FP2's), but knows someone with some FP4s maybe. and will make way more power. so, yeah.
-SMIM and probably throttle body (wtb: magnus/jmf intake)
-CLUTCH! lol. yeah. did a nice pull in 2nd, into 3rd and jumped some rpm it seemed, then again towards top of 3rd on another pull. (wtb: twin disc and 2g accumulator)
-solid front motor mount. i dont like the movement the engine has.
-what else is my car missing? lol. seems like i have bought everything...
i dont care... still fuckin excited. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Your lifters may be sh*t, but doubt they are the source of your knock. The knock sensor is tuned to pick up the resonant frequency of detonation, which should greatly differ from valve train noise/vibrations. You're more likely to have a setting configured incorrectly in ECMlink causing your CEL to light up. If you post up a log, we could take a look for you.
I agree with swapping to SD, or even back to a stock type MAF. The GM MAFs are garbage IMO.
Choose cams based on your overall goals for the car. Do you want a track car, or do you want something that's tame enough to still drive on the street? FP4s probably aren't a great street cam, but would will provide better balls out performance with the right setup.
Same goes for the clutch. Twin discs are notorious for being a pain in the ass on something that gets driven on the street, so do your research and identify your goals before you buy.
he pulled like 4* of timing when tuning, still was there. he has tuned tons of 4g63 cars.
as for the plans with the car, cams/clutch/etc... i just want a badass street car. i of course want it all. i doubt i ever bring my car to the track (of any kind). i like to drive my GVR4, but it certainly isnt my only car.
my buddy Bryan seems to think that the FP4's will idle fine.
we touched on the clutch issue just a little, as i know where this conversation goes. i need to move up to a 2900 and/or a pucked clutch. which has harsh engagement, grabby, generally shitty in traffic. but also i have had 4/6 puck clutches in other cars (both my civic and integra currently) and i have put MANY miles on them. my last integra had 30k miles on an ACT 6puck on daily dutys (50miles a day, with traffic). i have been researching twin discs all day. plenty of people dailying them, lots saying race only. im sure i can live with the engagement, not sure i like the idea of a rattly clutch though.
so i have been thinking. if i want a clutch thats decent, ill have to buy a new 2600, and a smaller turbo (hta green). but even then im curious if the torque will come on quick and toast it?... really doesnt matter, i doubt i'll chose less power.
so im going to continue with putting the T67 on.
idk. maybe this is just one viscous snowball... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
