broxma
Well-known member
Finally got the block back together and procured the engine lift. I ordered some new parts which have put a small hold on progress but they are coming from jegs so shipping should not take too long.
So these are the Evo pistons.
This is the top of the Evo piston with the relative position of the rings marked. The two top rings are stamped "R1" and R2". They are installed with these marks facing the top of the piston. These should be installed at 90 degrees to the pin. The oil rings, of which there are 3, should be place at 45 degree angles to the first two. No ring opening should be in line with the pin and no two rings should be in line with each other. The above is just an example and as you can see there are several ways you could do this and meet those requirements. Sorry the picture shrank when I edited it.
This is the current hold up. Can't put the oil pan back on because I ordered ARP main studs. The factory main bolts are stretch to torque. You set them to an initial torque setting and then give them a 90 degree turn. I didn't check the bolts when I pulled them out as there is a length limit on them I could have used, however I figured given 160K miles or so, probably best to just get ARP's. The motor is still going back in tomorrow since I can install them with the motor in the car.
Top all buttoned up. Standard stuff. For anyone building a motor I do not recommend going the Evo piston route as a set of forged pistons for the 1G rods purchased new will in fact not be much more than the Evo piston path I went. Apparently a company sells them pressed on 1G rods with rings at a decent price but on what point do you sacrifice in the end? Hard to say.
Head on before the timing belt. Standard 3 step torque sequence. I usually go 35/53/80. I would suggest that anyone new to installing a head go back to the start of the sequence after you finish the last bolt. The first bolt will no longer be torqued properly once you flatten the head. In addition, they say to only install the head studs hand tight for a reason. And put moly on the face of the washer or the nut where it makes contact.
Dropped the valve cover on and the timing cover. This I did just to see what it would look like. The Valve cover is the Hyundai one so I need longer bolts which I am in no rush to get considering the main stud delay.
This is just a shot of my trunk. I haven't put the whole thing back together but I sanded it and sprayed the bottom with a black rubberized paint like I used in the wheel wells. It had some rust so I sprayed it with converter first, then washed it out, sanded, vacuumed, etc. I'll eventually make a cover for the whole thing and carpet it.
Tomorrow is block in the bay day. I'll be putting the clutch on and the tranny, and finishing the fuel feed line. The sender is back in place and
So these are the Evo pistons.
This is the top of the Evo piston with the relative position of the rings marked. The two top rings are stamped "R1" and R2". They are installed with these marks facing the top of the piston. These should be installed at 90 degrees to the pin. The oil rings, of which there are 3, should be place at 45 degree angles to the first two. No ring opening should be in line with the pin and no two rings should be in line with each other. The above is just an example and as you can see there are several ways you could do this and meet those requirements. Sorry the picture shrank when I edited it.
This is the current hold up. Can't put the oil pan back on because I ordered ARP main studs. The factory main bolts are stretch to torque. You set them to an initial torque setting and then give them a 90 degree turn. I didn't check the bolts when I pulled them out as there is a length limit on them I could have used, however I figured given 160K miles or so, probably best to just get ARP's. The motor is still going back in tomorrow since I can install them with the motor in the car.
Top all buttoned up. Standard stuff. For anyone building a motor I do not recommend going the Evo piston route as a set of forged pistons for the 1G rods purchased new will in fact not be much more than the Evo piston path I went. Apparently a company sells them pressed on 1G rods with rings at a decent price but on what point do you sacrifice in the end? Hard to say.
Head on before the timing belt. Standard 3 step torque sequence. I usually go 35/53/80. I would suggest that anyone new to installing a head go back to the start of the sequence after you finish the last bolt. The first bolt will no longer be torqued properly once you flatten the head. In addition, they say to only install the head studs hand tight for a reason. And put moly on the face of the washer or the nut where it makes contact.
Dropped the valve cover on and the timing cover. This I did just to see what it would look like. The Valve cover is the Hyundai one so I need longer bolts which I am in no rush to get considering the main stud delay.
This is just a shot of my trunk. I haven't put the whole thing back together but I sanded it and sprayed the bottom with a black rubberized paint like I used in the wheel wells. It had some rust so I sprayed it with converter first, then washed it out, sanded, vacuumed, etc. I'll eventually make a cover for the whole thing and carpet it.
Tomorrow is block in the bay day. I'll be putting the clutch on and the tranny, and finishing the fuel feed line. The sender is back in place and