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1722/2000 burn victim rescue

GSXftw

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Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
"sleeper"... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif So yeah until I get the cooling issues under control and get a hood on it, I dont think Im pulling anything over anyone.


The pump gas tune is going well... I may have to go stiffer on the wastegate setup, but thats mostly for the future E85 plans.
 

GSXftw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
So I was maxed on boost at the 20psi so I pulled the wastegate off, thinking I needed more spring, saw this plug with the thread sealant on it was missing, so I had a big boost leak at the wastegate that was venting pressure at the top of the spring. I didnt change springs just fixed the leak, getting a hang of the settings for this new way of plumbing it. Turned up the duty cycle to 50%, and it climbed up to 30 psi before I got out of it. Realized duty cycle works backwards now and boost climbs with less duty cycle, so turned it up to 76%, and saw a sweet 22 psi and got the AFR right.


After header wrapping, flipping the fan blades to be cupped the correct way for pushers, it helped with temp but still ran a little hot. Have been doing most of my tuning at night, got the pump gas tune dialed very nice. I threw the Walbro 450 in on tue night


I was all set to hit the track with actually a little bit of breathing room, and unfortunately I had a family medical issue spring up. Everything got put on hold for the week, and now I can finally get back into the swing of things. I did some night tuning, after doing some 5k launch control launches and realizing the mass of the 11lb fw vs the car, which btw is between 3250-3300 w driver and a 1/4 tank, isnt enough to get it outta the hole. I turned on the antilag and gave her the whip. Drove quite a bit and the only issue I ran into was the Vband on the dp kept heating up and leaking past. I gooped it up with hi temp silicone, and its been fine now. I absolutely love the way the car feels on the highway! Between the 55W HIDs, the evo III 5th, the suspension, the thing does awesome and really turns some heads! I still havent gotten a system in it yet, but the bt speaker is working for now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


So Im gonna head to the car, pump the gas out, put in the E85, turn up the boost, tune it out, and hit the track, wish me luck!
 

GSXftw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
Well her first track day went great. I took the feed line off, pumped out the gas, put in E85, and just like my 1G would it put me to E45 with the remaining stuff in the tank. I turned up boost slightly, and headed to the track. Here is a vid of the nights events.
click

The car was around 25 psi the first run, and 30 psi for the second run. I noticed a small bit of spray coming up on the windshield, I thought it might be catch can or something, but it turned out to be fuel. The 90* fitting on the feed line was leaking where it pivots. It wasnt enough to leak all the time, just in boost when pressure went up. I called it good and drove home. Other than that the car did great! Still a little on the hot side if it sits, I need to improve the cooling system more. After that will get the hood back on, finish exhaust, charge AC, backseats, headliner, sound system, and itll be good to go up north and hit the dyno on E85 to see what kind of power I can come up with.
 

transparentdsm

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Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
when you said track day, i thought you meant actual track, so is it just a 1/4 mile or is there an actually road course there? congrats on the numbers, car seems to be running pretty freaking strong. it can keep up with a GT-R, so thats cool.
 

GSXftw

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Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
So still keepin on with this one... after its passes at the track I was getting some spark blowout, so did new BPR7s gapped down to .02, and ran it around on pump gas for a while to keep it on the road while I worked on it. I had to address some exhaust leaks, here you will notice the turbine housing bolts were backing out.


The turbine housing got taken off, and everything resurfaced.



Then I milled the sh*t out of the housing to get a bolt into this corner of the housing. What it had before was a stud and a nut on either end, not ideal.



Next step was getting rid of that ridiculous key reminder beep! I couldnt handle it anymore!


I also installed a deck. I hooked it up on the RCAs and everything, but still need to replace the full ranges before the sub/amp goes in.
Then came a tasteful hacking of the bumper. I need more airflow without a doubt. So heres the before.

and the after

I left a few verticals cause I dont want any sag, but it should help for sure. I'll clean it up a little more when the time comes but its roughed in for now.
Then I pulled my foglight to make sure it was the bulb that was bad.


This next mod may seem a little bit odd, but it was to solve an issue I have with how I use my car. Think of it like this: Its race day, you're driving your car around on pump gas since E85 is 3 hours away. You pop the fuel feed off, run the pump and empty the tank, splash in the E85, and you're left with a weak ass mix of E45 after that due to all the gas still left in the bottom of the tank. I dont trust the tank drain plug being pulled repeatedly for this normal occurrence, so I wanted to put a radiator petcock into it. It sounded easy in my head, but was a little tougher given the fact I couldnt just drill/tap the way I originally thought. I pulled the plug, stunk up the shop, stole a petcock off a junk radiator, then saw the threads were close in size to each other and the tank drain wouldnt have enough meat left. Welded a nut as a coupler, countersunk so it could still flow somewhat, and made it all work.



Then came outer tie rods, pretty straight forward there.


So I did these mods on a race day mind you, I wasnt all that interested in running at all despite people asking if I was going. I drove out to watch at about 8pm when racing started at 6. Like most people when they drive out "just to hang out..." I noticed a buddys car there running low 12s, my options were to either borrow a helmet and run pump gas, or go drain tank get E85 etc. I picked the latter. I hauled ass home, the drain worked well other than the fact it was a little slow when youre hours late for a race... I got back to the track ready to roll around 9. Tank showed around E55 since I was impatient on draining the gas. First pass went okay considering. I didnt air tires down at all, banged revvy in 1st and spun a 12.2@122 at 30psi with a 2.0 60ft. I aired down, tweaked boost a bit, and worked on getting back out there for a fast pass. Launch went great, did a slight spin to a 1.82, 2nd hit hard as hell, then 3rd/4th it broke up a bit and I lifted. Slowing down I saw the dash light up and knew exactly what it was.


First time in this car, but 3rd for me Ive killed of the 96A saturn alternators. The car was a little hotter this pass, so the cooling fans were on, so that coupled with the fact I had my lights on I guess it was too much for the thing. Im very lucky it didnt cost me an engine, looking at these numbers is pretty scary!


Im pretty disappointed since despite lifting to a 118 trap, it still did a PB of 11.92 so it wouldve been lots better if it ran all the way through. Thinking Ill look into the 130A self exciting option at this point, especially given its sound system thats in store. Despite this though, it still got me home and itll live to fight another day.
 

GSXftw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
So where are we now....

I upgraded to a slightly better alternator, it was another $56 over the one that went bad, since all in all this was the third one I have blown in my dsm life. Put that in and did some runs in around town before I took another go at the track. First pass it spun a lot, missed 3rd, so did a shitty mid 12. Tried another pass without NLTS hoping it would shift easier, but nope the clutch felt like crap, was locking me out unless RPM matched acted like it was dragging. Inspection in the pits showed I gained a lot of free play somehow, I figured it was pedal assembly so I limped it home. Come to find out it was just the clutch master pushrod was at the ends of its adjustment, and skipped a few threads. Had to do this on my 1G too, weld a nut for more threads, done.


Next came some more stereo stuff... The door panels came off to show the awesome stock speakers...



Even though the dash speakers are 4", I had some 3.5" kicking around so they went in


Along with some 3 way 5.25 sonys for the doors. The rears I went with some components and will have to do a pod for the tweeters.


Thats about all for now, Im pretty much done racing for the year so the plans for next year are already in the works and setting in motion.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,465
Location
SoCal
That "petcock" gets snagged on anything and you'll be driving a VBIED. Do yourself a favor and reinstall the drain plug /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
 

GSXftw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
Its part of the drain plug. If I snagged it on anything Id be doing something I shouldnt anyways, look how high it is compared to exhaust.
 

slugsgomoo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
3,777
Location
Tacoma, WA
if you have no balance shafts and poly mounts especially, I'd rethink the petcock idea it'll vibrate at least partially open and you'll be sad, eventually. Many years ago I lost a drain plug while doing a pull through 2nd gear and did a bond smoke screen. I now compulsively re-check the tightness every so often.

Personally, I've seen instances where people did quick drain stuff for their oil, and it never ends up being worth it. All I see is a bigger mess potential when you drain the oil, and any time saving from not having to find a wrench is eaten up by having to clean the petcock when you're done. I don't get it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ughdunno.gif
 

GSXftw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
Thank you!
So update time, I ran the car a few more times at the track until it was closing time, it did well for what it is with more high 11s at the low 120s. Its best was 11.83@123 with a lame 1.8 60ft (traction)
the car has about 600 miles on it since being put together, and 3500 miles on the engine. It has proven to be a sweetheart and reliable, the only nagging issue I had was getting it to shift and release right, which turned out to be a starter plate bolt backing out and wedging itself between the clutch fork.


So the car is together and running well, but Im working on the changes for 2017. I noticed the car doesnt pick up anymore power after 28 psi. I dont think the turbine is maxxed, but more likely the stock head/cyclone are holding me back and boost building up in the intake. I cant get past 53 lbs/min. So this engine is getting sold to a buddy for his 1G to work on a HX35 combo, and I will be doing upgrades to let this thing breathe a little more. Call me optimistic but I'd like to crack the 700whp mark. I've had a lot of good stuff sitting on the shelf for the past 2 years while Ive flogged on stock longblock stuff, and its time to see what a build engine will do. I tried my hand at this engine in 2014, and the machine shop as well as myself screwed up the PTW clearance so it made it a whole 70 miles.

I was being super easy on it with 15 psi, 7k redline, just working it in still while the clutch broke in and starting to get a taste of the high rpm flow when a knock under load started. Its actually a mixed blessing since the trans never wouldve shifted at the 9k rpm I was hoping for, turbine shaft broke on the GTX3076 I was running, and decided to go with a main girdle.
So specs for whats in the car now is: 8.5 cr, delta 272s, stock 1G head, cyclone.
And whats going in is: 9.0 cr, Kelford 272s, worked 2G head, JMF SMIM.
So first I cleaned the block back up


I got a replacement piston, which are wiseco 1400 HDs, and a new set of rings. My buddy Jesse at legendary coatings

click,d.amc

did it just like he did the others back in the day which is thermal coating on top, slick coating on the skirts. Then the machine shop went ahead and honed out the block to .004 PTW for free. So basically this mess up only cost me 225 or so, definitely easier to swallow with that.


One thing I was a little concerned about is I had the block align honed with the ARP main studs, but added the main girdle after the fact. I check clearances and sure enough it needs the hone once again.



So I pulled the block back apart, torqued the mains down empty so it could be sent off to the machine shop, when I got the feel of a main stud giving up!!


So I ordered a stud and moly lube (which is probably why it stretched, I was doing +10 with motor oil since I didnt have any)
got the thing torqued and sent to the machine shop


Been waiting on them for a bit but thats where Im at now, GVR4 has just been in hibernation for the winter. Tags are up and insurance was expensive since I got denied on classic car coverage, so its just upgrade time. Thanks for reading stay tuned!
 

GSXftw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
Alright, got the block back from the machine shop! So I went on through it with the normal assembly routine. It was really nice not having to file rings since it was already done and on the pistons. First step was making sure the main clearances looked good




Now if you didnt see this engines first run (or fail whatever you wanna call it) I'll catch you up. We have a 2G head, deburred, P&P, +1mm valves, thermal coated, drilled stud holes, teardrop mod, kiggly beehives.




Then we have the L19s, and a copper sprayed cometic HG


Then threw the head on


I called it a night at this point, more assembly tomorrow
 

GSXftw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
So tonight I torqued the head down, got the cams installed/torqued, water pump, most of the timing components, intake mani, and did some throttle body work.


I'll be taking the cam gears/cover off the other engine, and getting a kevlar belt, so hit my roadblock for the night on that. The throttle body needed some more work to work with the car. The dsm throttle plate got welded on, the spring got anchored better with some JB weld, and I radiused the IAC passageways since they whistle like a bitch before! Heres a good example when it first started in my 1G click

This is a JMF race, with a 75mm BBK tb, using the nissan/mitsu hybrid IAC.



Then I went ahead and took the car around the block just to circulate the fluids


The engine thats in the car Im still awaiting payment on, so have somewhat hit a stalemate until people (including myself) get some spare cash. Maybe tax time will jump start things! Thanks for reading
 

transparentdsm

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Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
New motor seems to be coming along nice. Got mine started the other day, need to do a few things first. How much longer you think yours will be running with its current motor? We should try to meet up before you take it out.
 
Last edited:

GSXftw

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
111
Location
medford, OR
Nice man, hope that hyundai head serves you well! I have no idea how much longer then engine will be in...Im ready to pull it whenever I just dont want yet another engine sitting in the shop, I have sold like 2 shortblocks recently but the parts pile is still huge! I just got another parts car for its forged stroker, Im doing LS things as well...so waiting isnt a big deal when I have a totally different project going on with this lol. I do hope we can do a meet for sure though, keep me posted.
 
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