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1517's thread ***More pics added 12/31***

I've been slacking. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

But there has been some progress. The control arms, 1G rack, swaybar, and P/S lines are back in the car. I installed all new bushings and ball joints on the arms and new bushings and end links on the swaybar. My tie rods were swapped from the GVR4 rack to the 1G rack because they aren't very old, and in fantastic shape still. I can't believe how much of a PITA the swaybar bushings were. I had to gain the assistance of a buddy with some giant channel lock pliers to squeeze those bastards against the subframe just to get the bolts started. But I've been anti-siezing stuff this time around, just in case I have to take it apart again. Still bummed that I had to cut up a perfectly good subframe.

I have my torque wrench back finally, so I've put the crank back in and put the head on. I loosely hung my new FP exh mani and FP green on as well and it looks so good. I'm supposed to get my O2 housing and Tial MV-S WG by monday which very well might lead to me crying tears of joy followed by hyperventilating and passing out. I still get retarded excited about cool parts.

I found out that one of my fender lights was burnt out, so I went down to the Radioshack and snagged some 5mm white LED bulbs and a couple of resisters and made LED JDM fender lights. I decided while I was at it that I'd drill out the green plastic inside the light housings and I painted the LED with amber model paint to make the lights as legal as possible. Being a CDL holding driver has definitely made me try to avoid unnecessary encounters with the "5-O".

My neighbor has donated a ZEX dry kit to the cause, which I initially said "thanks, but no thanks" to. I proceeded to explain to him that my new turbo is fully capable of exploring the horsepower limits of my engine on its own, and nitrous would simply accelerate the certain demise of said engine. He countered by saying "well, we'll build an intercooler sprayer out of it then". To which I said "F-Yeah!". So I have that to mount up also.

I'm looking at somewhere in the ballpark of $900-1200 of parts and services (alignment, tuning, etc.) remaining to get her back on the ground and self propelled again. I guestimate that I'm in the realm of $20k-$25k invested since day one on this car, which is almost 6 years ago now. Everyone keeps telling me that I could've bought a brand new car for that price, and I tell them that they're boring. They tell me that I'm crazy. I say they're probably right.
 

AnotherNewb

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Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,472
Location
Orlando, FL
With you zex nos kit, why not set it up the way drifters do, an rpm activated window switch with a pressure cut off switch. That way your juice is only on until your turbo is spooled up. Say buh bye turbo lag.
 

That thought did cross my mind. But since I'm already over budget and nitrous was never in the plans to begin with, I'm going to stick with the IC sprayer. I do suppose that it could be a option in the future though.
 

The wrenches were a-turnin' this weekend! I really wish I had a computer to throw some pics up with. I feel like I this thread would be much, much better if I had pics to help tell the story, but anyhow...

I mounted up my MAPerformance O2 housing and Tial MV-S wastegate and it looks like it'll all fit just fine with a fullsize radiator. Hats off to MAperformance as well, because this O2 housing is a B.E.A.Utiful piece. Craftsmanship appears to be second to none. Because this WG has provisions for water cooling, I spent a bit of time fabricating some cooling lines for it as well. I'm really happy with how the feed line turned out, but the return line still has some hurdles to overcome. I'm not quite sure yet where I'm going to plumb it back into the system. Logic says that I should just direct it to the original port on the water pipe that acted as the return for the factory "sandwich" style oil cooler, and I imagine that's where I'll end up putting it, but another part of me wants to tap directly into the water pump. I suppose I like to make sh*t hard sometimes...

I mounted up the new AFPR, and for simplicity I mounted it off of an existing unused bolt hole in the firewall. This, however, means that it is mounted a little lower than what would be ideal for viewing of the pressure gauge. I decided to plug the gauge port on the AFPR, and drilled and tapped my fuel rail to mount the gauge onto it instead. I think I prefer the looks of the AFPR without the gauge anyway, because the gauge made the regulator look huge to me.

Aside from actually mounting the bottle, I have the I/C sprayer completely mocked up and hidden as well as is reasonably possible. I lines are all tucked underneath other components and the solenoid is going to be mounted behind the coolant reservoir. I prefer some things go unnoticed to people who don't have a clue, and this is certainly one of those things.

My new oil cooler was kind of a beech to find a good home for, as the size and shape is considerably different from my old one. I did manage to make it fit inside the void left from the ABS motor delete though, down inside the bumper. I fab'd up a couple of brackets and hung it in there.
 

AnotherNewb

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,472
Location
Orlando, FL
Sounds awesome. If you wanted to you could email or text me your pics and I would gladly post them up for you.
 

AnotherNewb, your offer is greatly appreciated. But I figured I should throw up something better than cell phone pics. So I ran over to a friends house and borrowed his computer.

Ok folks, here's some pics.



This photo shows my AFPR mounted, the DSM clutch reservoir, Non-ABS proportioning valve, non-cruise throttle cable.



This image shows the general state of disassembly of the car.



An "aerial" view of the engine. You can see the fuel gauge mounted on the fuel rail, FP exh mani, Hyundai V/C.



This shows the FP Green, O2 housing and Tial MV-S wastegate, the WG water feed line that I fab'd.


Another view of the wastegate with the water line.
 
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And some more.


There's the NOS solenoid for the I/C sprayer, taken during the mock up stage.



Here is a pic of the nitrous rail we (my neighbor and I) made for the I/C sprayer.



This shows the new oil cooler mounted up. The brackets aren't finished yet.



I just like this pic. There's nothing like staring into the snout of a big turbo.
 
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There's a few new things to update.

First of all, I'm an idiot. I went to bolt up the OFH, tightened the wrong bolt first, and cracked the damn thing.

And I forgot to set the block on the bench after putting the crank back in, which means that I forgot to put the rear main seal and retaining plate on, and now I have enough stuff hanging off of the engine that setting it on the bench by hand isn't really an option now. I guess I'll try to weasel it in there, otherwise I'm going to have to hook up the hoist and attach it with the engine in the air.

Also, I snapped the heads off of three turbo bolts. I've never had that happen before, let alone three times in a row. I've picked up some freshies from the dealer so hopefully they'll work.
 

OMFGeofffff

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
867
Location
Burnsville, MN
I see something wrong with all your pictures. Where's all the dirt and oil? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Too clean haha.
 

Oh there was plenty of it Jeff, trust me. And thanks Diego
 
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PreskitVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
272
Location
Prescott, Northern AZ
I have that same Hyundai V/C, my CAS had some clearance issues. have you heard of this prob? a friend of mine offered to put ot in his end mill and shave a bit for me, was wondering first if anyone else had the same issue.
 

Not yet, but I haven't tried bolting the CAS up yet. Are you running the proper bolts for that V/C? The only thing I can think is that you don't have the correct shouldered bolts and the valve cover isn't locating itself on the head correctly because of it.
 

Here is a current mod list for my car.

Engine:

.5mm oversized stock pistons
Stock reconditioned rods
Stock STD/STD crankshaft
ACL race bearings
BSE w/ OEM parts
MHI gasket set
MHI MLS head gasket
Stock rebuilt cylinder head
ARP head studs
Hyundai "smooth" valve cover
Stock intake manifold
NA throttle body
FP race exhaust manifold
FP Green turbocharger


Exhaust:

MAPerformance O2 housing
TiAL MV-S wastegate
2.5" downpipe
3" cat or test pipe
3" cat back
3" Magnaflow dual tip muffler


Intake and Intercooler:

K+N air filter
3" intake pipe
2.5" hotside piping
24"x12"x3" core, 3" in and out
3" cold side piping
3" GM MAF
Turbo XS Type H-RFL bov
Intercooler nitrous sprayer


Electronics and fuel:

GM MAFT
SAFC2
Keydiver ECU w/ chip
HKS turbo timer
AEM Tru Boost
Glowshift oil pressure gauge
Glowshift WBO2
Glowshift EGT
FIC 750cc injectors
Fuelab remote AFPR
Walbro 255 lph pump, rewired
Modified stock fuel rail
Liquid filled fuel pressure gauge

Cooling:

Stock radiator
OEM thermostat
Aftermarket 12" "pusher" fan
Aftermarket 10" "pusher" fan
6"x11"x1" oil cooler
-8 AN oil cooler lines
1990 DSM oil filter housing


Transmission:

Jack's build
DSM gearset
1st and 2nd double synchro
4-spider diff


Remaining drivetrain:

Prothane engine/trans mounts
Competition Clutch Stage 5 PP
4 puck unsprung disc
RRE "no name" flywheel
3/4" bore slave
Braided clutch flex hose
OEM rebuilt master
DSM reservoir
4-bolt rear diff
1G rear subframe
5-lug conversion
Filled carrier bearings
Torque Solution carrier bushings


Steering:

4WS delete
DSM front steering rack
DSM reservoir


Brakes/wheels:

Stock rotors
Stock calipers
ABS delete
Stainless braided flex lines
4G Eclipse 17x7.5 five spoke
225/50R17 Bridgestone Potenza

Suspension:

Stock springs
Monroe struts
Stock swaybars
Poly front subframe bushings
Poly front control arm bushings
Poly front swaybar bushings
Poly rear endlink bushings


Exterior:

93 headlights
DIY amber corners
JDM fenders
Notorious bumper mod


Misc.:

Trunk mounted Optima battery
Lots of additional ground straps
Grant steering wheel
Cruise control delete
Emissions delete (minus cat)
A/C delete
 
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Quoting PreskitVR4:
i do have the correct bolts, i was lucky enough to pull it myself @ the junkyard.... paid 15 bucks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif



Damn, that's a steal. They charged me 30 for mine.
 

Quoting PreskitVR4:
I have that same Hyundai V/C, my CAS had some clearance issues. have you heard of this prob? a friend of mine offered to put ot in his end mill and shave a bit for me, was wondering first if anyone else had the same issue.



Well PreskitVR4, I looked at both of my Hyundai valve covers and I see what you are refering to now. It appears the the area surrounding the bolt closest to the crankcase vent tube is protruding out towards the CAS mounting area. I will probably just kiss my valve cover with a sanding disc and an angle grinder to alleviate the issue. Good catch though, I'm not sure I would have noticed it otherwise.
 
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