139/1000 Rebuild

Quoting NateCrisman:
Yes it's expensive, but I'm a photographer for my job. It has some features that I really take advantage off: dual card slots for duplication, "all day" battery, 9fps speed, insane ISO and dynamic range (blows away film), 300k click shutter life. I could make due with just about anything, but camera bodies that last more than a year are worth having when I use it this much. And obviously when Im relying on the camera for very important event coverage, reliability is of utmost importance. The D3 is more than robust in build quality. My D90 by comparason is a plastic toy that won't survive much abuse. My D3 has shot for hours in pouring rain at motocross races, covered in dust and mud. I have heard of a wedding photog that fell in a hottub at a wedding hotel and a D3/70-200 went under and survived to shoot the rest of the event.

Anyway, yes Im a camera dork, but I don't have a $5000 camera body for shooting pictures of my dog in the backyard. I make my living with this thing, as meager as it is.




Oh believe me I know that the D3 is the jamn and that your a photographer. I know what it is capable of! I just didn't even consider it because 1.) I am not a professional and 2.) I am unemployed and although I have well over 5k in the bank, its not for a camera.

That said when you need it, you need it! And more power to you for owning one. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[atc250r]

No topless pics of Nathan in this thread FTMFL!! NJDSM crew knows what I mean.

John

 

[NateCrisman]

Yeah, leave me with at least a shred of dignity on the Internet somewhere!

 

[atc250r]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[BoostedAWD91]

Quoting crankwalk:

I love these types of pictures. How are they shot? U need a attachment?

 

[NateCrisman]

I took this lens: a 10.5MM DX Nikon Fisheye ($599) that is designed for a digital DX sensor camera...the sensor is about 60% the size of a piece of 35mm film. That's the sensor size for every nikon dslr made other than the two new FX sensor cameras...the D3 ($5000) and D700 ($3000), both are professional models. The FX sensor is the same size as 35mm film.

Now all the DX lenses that were designed in the last say 5 years for use on a digital DSLR camera were designed to optically work best with the smaller DX sensor. They don't project as large of an image onto the sensor as a lens that was designed to work with 35mm film SLR. (pretty much every nikon lens from 1960's to late 1990's.) This fisheye lens when used on a FX sensor you can actually see those fins (lens hood) in the picture.

So I cut those little bastards off with a hacksaw and whalaa ---something different, a semi circular fisheye. somehow this lens can see behind itself more than 180* once the lens hood is removed, it's freaky. I have to be careful how I hold the camera as I often find my fingers an elbows are in the edge of the picture! Unfortunately, it does seem strange to take a hacksaw to a $600 lens. I cut mine right above that gold line.

This lens on a DX sensor camera with 1.5X crop; the image the lens projects is larger than the sensor so the edges of the image aren't recorded The FX sensor is wider than the projected image (hence the solid black sides) but just a little smaller than the projected image height. Basically using this sensor with the cut off hood on an FX sensor gives it a little bit more angle of view.

Something different. I used it yesterday at a wedding for an overall view of the ceremony from a balcony and on the dance floor a little bit.

 

[NateCrisman]

My 5bolt .63ar T3 turbine housing showed up today with UPS. That was a steal for $60 shipped! Looks perfect and nearly new. Plus the PTE T3 housing doesn't have an internal wastegate hole to interupt exhaust flow like the turbonetics housing did.

I ported the exhaust manifold to correctly match the cyl head ports this afternoon. Whatever brand of manifold it is, the alignment sucked major ass. The ports of the flange matched cyl #4 well, #3 was like 1/8" off center, #2 and #1 were 1/4" off center. #1 and #2 required significant porting to match up but I was able to get it decently close. Whoever is cutting out the head flange has the port spacing wrong.

That missing ES bushing came today as well. A NJDSM member lent me one of his extras on friday night, so that was no exciting package. So I'v got just about all the parts I need to get the car very close to running.

On the "to do/buy" list:
[*]silicone connector for ic pipe to compressor housing & weld a 90* onto the pipe.
[*]better oil feed & drain lines for the turbo
[*]get TB vac ports and extra Tstat housing ports welded shut
[*]buy some vacuum line, alt belt, tstat, and driveshaft U joints.
[/list]


Progress today:
[*]Assembled the Exhaust manifold, turbo, o2 housing.
[*]Bolted the turbo assembly onto the motor
[*]-4 oil feed line and oil press senders in to the ofh.
[*]Tstat housing sensors in, all unused holes tapped & plugged. (need housing-head gasket)
[*]ABS delete prop valve and lines installed
[*]brake booster and brake master cyl installed (oh sh*t moment when I thought I had to take the intake off first)
[/list]

As I left it for tonight:

 

[Terrance362]

man it is looking great, it is only a matter of time.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif

 

[NateCrisman]

Got some minor stuff done today and ran into some issues. Clutch master/line/slave installed. All the power steering parts are on. Shifter cables & skateboard bearings installed. TB & Tstat housing.

TB:. Dislike unused vac hose tubes. The damn rubber caps always blow up under boost and short vac lines with bolts plugging is hack. I wanted to get them tig'd shut, maybe still will eventually. But his works for now: 1/4"-27 set screws.

Thermostat housing installed w/ new 180* stat. This isn't going to leak either. Tore out the brass water tubes, tapped for 1/8" NPT, and used plugs.

Then I started to dig into the wiring. My goal is to eliminate all the unused plugs and wire from removing stuff: ABS wiring, oem alarm, power antenna, AC wiring, cruise wiring, foglights, emmisions stuff. Simplify the fan wiring.

Ran into two issues:
#1 The alt relocation kit came with a 4rib 420 belt (42" length), it's too long for the underdrive pulley. Next smaller size at napa was a 410 (41") that's too small and I can't get it on. Pita, guess I gotta hunt around for a belt since seems it's between sizes. can always toss the oem crank pulley on for now and swap the lighter crank pulley on later.

#2 My plan for using a -6 AN tube nut with flaring the stock fuel line attaching to a -6 male fitting didn't work out. Flaring the stock line enough that the tube nut catches it splits the stock line. Stock feed is really 5/16" od anyway and is a sloppy fit on the tube nut hole. So now I gotta figure out some other method. Stock fuel line fitting under the filter is super boogered up, Id rather not use an oem filter. I'v got 15' of -6 hose and a bunch of hose ends & fittings to work with, maybe just enough to do the whole feed line in the -6. Just need a clean attachment to the oem sending unit.

The sending unit outlet is a female flare. Inside of a -6 hose end is a female flare. Seems some sort of 3/8" male flare ferrule would be appropriate there to seal it off. I have in previous times, done a hackery of just threading a -6 hose end onto the sending unit and crushing the heck out of it and it sealed up, but that's not a correct way and I'd prefer to not do that.

Any ideas or thoughts on the fuel line connection from oe sending unit to a -6 hose?

 

Dude, I could be wrong but I think the JDM / JDM RS TB is void of those lines. I know Hosmer's RS TB doesn't have them.
Maybe you could get one from one of the Australia members?

 

[iceman69510]

Quoting NateCrisman:


Any ideas or thoughts on the fuel line connection from oe sending unit to a -6 hose?



flare nut is off already? How about a compression fitting to a male NPT fitting, then female NPT to dash 6 male?

 

[NateCrisman]

Uggh, dealing with wiring is my least favorite part of building a car, always has been. Over the last few days I have been going through the electrical manual pdf file (thanks to LilEvo) and removing wires and electrical plugs for the things that are not used or removed:

8+ LB box of wire, plugs, loom, and tape:

The front fuse box had about 1/3 of the wiring removed, mostly AC related. The front chassis harness is pretty much done. Alternator wiring is going along the firewall now. I'm replacing the main fusable link box that mounted to the battery + terminal with a simple 2 fuse car stereo fuse block. I'm going to rewire the factory hi/low fan relays to run off one switch (the one on the radiator) to power two fans at full power. Gone is the whole two speed 4 relays fan control setup.

I'm kinda stuck a little bit too. The car isn't together enough to roll off the lift, but I cant get the drivers door open enough to get in there and disconnect the front harness where it goes into the drivers interior. This is where the majority of ABS wiring is laying around; cut on the engine side as shown and also cut on the other end under the driver seat area. Im going to try getting the driver seat out through a back door then getting into the car through a rear door.

One plug that has me confused. It is the plug that connects the engine wiring harness to the front chassis harness. It sits on the passenger side frame rail under where the facotry airbox was located right next to the clutch hydraulic line where it goes from metal to rubber. These are the harnesses that came with #139, and should both be 92's. The engine side of the harness has 6 wires of which 5 have been traced and removed as "not needed". The chassis side plug has 7 wires. The black/white wire shown top/left in the pic is the unknown wire that doesn't have a connection on the engine harness side of the plug. This is leading me to think I have a mixup of harnesses, maybe the engine harness is out of a 91?

Can anyone take a quick look at their gvr4 and let me know how many wires you have on his plug...specificlly someone with a 92 and someone with a 91? If anyone knows what this wire does, that would be awesomer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif (it goes along the front harness and into the drivers footwell so I haven't traced it back to it's next connection to find out it's purpose yet).

Still need to remove the battery box and wiring in the trunk, Im going to keep a lawnmower battery on the front subframe. That will be some additional clutter and weight out.

Going to the beach again tue-thur with kids, so I'v only got monday and friday to finish up this wiring fiasco. Id like to get onto more mechanical assembly asap. Seems like wiring takes me so long to do and there isn't much to show for all the time involved. Well, other than the box of removed wire. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[NateCrisman]

Monday's progress:

Finally got those ABS rings off the front hubs. a whopper 1.5lb each for a grand total of just under 3lb of rotating weight. I cut through them 75% of the way with a Dremel tool cutoff wheel, then used an air chisel to snap the rest of the way through. Yeah, exposed surface with no POR15/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsrun.gif

Bolted up the front hubs, front shocks, all brake rotors, 3/4 calipers, and put the wheels on temporarily. Now I can roll the car back a few feet and open the front doors enough to remove the dashboard in order to go weight loss hunting and get at the wiring that needs to be removed where it comes through behind the drivers fender. Plus it will make it easier to hook up the brake/clutch master cyls, throttle cable, hook up gauges and wideband.


When I set it down, here is what I see: Holy crap fender gap!

Granted, the car is still missing ALOT of parts: seats, interior, driveshaft, ic and pipes, exhaust, fluids, bumpers. I'm sure there is a few hundred pounds of parts that still need to be installed. Regardless, a set of ksport or D2 coilovers is on my list as soon as I can afford it. This thing is still all jacked up looking and the coilovers save significant weight.

Still got a ton of work to do inside as well:

 

[Terrance362]

wow keep the updates coming

 

[NateCrisman]

Just got back from the beach, GVR4.org was my first stop on the net!

Going over to the shop tonight to pull the dash and get some of the under dashboard stuff done:

[*]finish the removal of ABS/AC/Theft wiring, control boxes, relays
[*]Controls: connect the pedals to clutch & brake master cyl's, throttle cable, shifter cables, shifter. swap on aftermarket steering wheel.
[*]Get the engine wiring harness and ECU installed and start figuring out my engine harness routing/looming
[*]Find a real home for the Ostrich eprom emulator box as well as run the wiring for the innovate wideband and gauge.
[*]Would be nice to have the AEM tru-boost gauge/controller that I paid for 3 months ago to wire in at the same time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
[/list]
Maybe get the dash back in along with the empty ac box and blower motor.

Tomorrow I'v got a full day to spend. Planning to finish all the wiring harnesses. Radiator and FMIC core install, front bumper cover, oil drain line for turbo, make brackets for the ignition parts. bolt on the last brake caliper. figure out what IC pipe changes need to be made. And install the -6 fuel feed line/filter.

 

[Terrance362]

keep the updates coming /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[NateCrisman]

Left my camera at home this morning, will go back tonight and take a few pics and keep on working.

Last night/this morning:
removed the dashboard, steering wheel, and some other misc stuff.
Got most of the wiring on the drivers side loose. Chopped out the remainder of ABS wiring. Working on cutting the rest of the cruise control and AC wiring out of the "behind the dash" harness.
Put the engine harness back through the firewall and figured out my layout under the hood, now it's all one single loom going under the intake manifold and to each sensor/output. very simple and clean.

Then I started tearing out that hard foam block on the bottom of the center console/shifter area: 2lb gone.
The rubber mat on the inside firewall took a while to get out, but was worth the effort: 12.5lb. The heater core had to come off the firewall to get the largest portion of it out.


Now Im trying to research if I can just cut that ETACS box and the Auto Cruise Controller box out. I'm 90% sure the cruise box does nothing now since I cut it's output wires and cut it's signal taps from tps/switch from the ecu as well. The ETACS box seems to have A LOT of wires going to the door locks....I don't want to chop it out and find my doors won't lock and the windows won't work.

going back tonight to keep cranking away at wiring setup. maybe put the dash back in.

 

[strokin4dr]

You have to keep the etacs box if you are keeping power windows and locks. The easiest way I found to remove the excess wires was to just start where the wires end up. For instance, start in the trunk if you want to remove the abs system. Remove the control unit, cut the plug off the wires going to the box, then follow the wires back towards the dash removing all connected sensors and grounding points along the way. By doing it this way I barely had to use a wiring diagram, got rid of 12+ lbs of wiring (still have ac /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif) and made the process as simple as can be. When you follow the wires and end up at the dash plugs, just de-pin everything for that clean, factory, non-hack job look.
-Ryan

 

[NateCrisman]

yeah, that has been my method so far with removing the wiring for unused stuff. It's very simple for things like the ABS that doesn't "intertwine" with other stuff. The AC and cruise are fairly simple as well. It's the alarm system that has it's fingers in lots of other sub systems. It has inputs/outputs within the door locks, windows, headlights, horn, interior lights. It's not as simple as the other systems.

But I guess I'm fine with leaving a few ounces of ETACS box. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I'v really spared no effort thus far in removing weight where I can afford it. I'll have to go back in there to remove wires later when I do manual belts and sunroof delete eventually. Doing all the removing and cutting now, leaving the BUYING weight loss for later. (hood/trunk/wheels/driveshaft/seats & belts/sunroof) are all going to involve some investment in light parts and priority is getting the car on the road at this point.

 

[strokin4dr]

Yeah, I went ahead and removed a the sunroof and seatbelt stuff at the same time; wasnt in the original plan but that is always how things go. I was already in there so why not if I'm not gonna use it.

For the alarm removal, start at the horn and relay located next to the brake booster (both are for alarm system only). That will give you a good start and then just de-pin the wires when you get to the harness connectors under the dash.