WTB: wheel bearings + seals

[coyotes]

Anyone have a full set, front and rear, they have laying around they aren't using? NEW please. I'd have to mix n match through rock auto and I'd rather get them all one brand. Just seeing what's out there.

 

[Mitsu_tuner7]

Jnz sells a kit for our cars, and a good price and oem. When I did mine I got the rear kit from jnz and the front thru Rockauto was the best way price wise.

 

[coyotes]

Thanks, yeah there are no good OEM through rock auto, I'd have to pick n choose from a few different brands. The price is much better than JNZ, but I think OEM is the way to go.

 

[89Mirageman]

I'm sure some of the ones you get from rockauto are just re-boxed oem ones but be careful. I've gotten some wheel bearings from them that say China on them and they didn't fit at all. I had to clearance the inside of the knuckle a little because the bearing was a little bigger than the oem one. Not much but just enough that my press wouldn't press them in. Never had this issue before with the ones with Japan on them.

 

[manikbastrd]

Yotes, I have a set of fronts here Timken bearings...which I would say are as good as stock. Don't remember who manufactures the seals.

 

[coyotes]

You have bearings and seals? $$ ?

 

[citymunky]

Timken is what you what if you can't find OEM. Timken bearings are used on every Naval aircraft I worked on.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Just order it from Rockauto. I did mine a while back, and I'm at about 1,000 miles without issue.

BECK/ARNLEY Wheel Seal part # 0523303 (052-3303) $ 3.22
SKF Wheel Seal Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty part # 21281 $ 0.86
TIMKEN Wheel Bearing part # 513036 $ 31.79

The bitch part is pressing all the old stuff out, and getting the new stuff back in. You need a press and lots of patience.

From my build thread:
You have to disassemble the entire hub just to get the lug stud out. I figured this was as good a time as any to replace the wheel bearing. Here's the hub with everything removed; bearing, seals, everything pressed out.

Here's all the new stuff. It's pretty simple, just a bearing, snap ring, and 2 seals.

Aaaaaaand...everything all assembled.

 

[coyotes]

you did all that and left it 4 lug? FOR SHAME

 

[manikbastrd]

I will figure out a price when I get to work. I have all the stuff there. PM me with your Phone Number and I will text you the details.

 

[Vr4junkie]

I have a new OEM front wheel bearing and Timken inner seal made in Japan if you wanna buy them or trade for parts .

I bought the seals of rockauto and personally like the Timken seals alot better than the SKF seals they look like an upgraded version of the OEM seals ill see if can post a pic.

 

[Vr4junkie]

Here the Timken seal I was talking bout cheaper than an OEM seal and looks and feels allot better and designed better IMHO nothing wrong with the SKF seals only reason i changed mine is because I damaged mine while moving stuff around.

 

[mitsuturbo]

I just got these exact seals a few days ago from rockauto. I got the bearings pressed in, got the inner seal installed, then went to put one of these in, and noticed that the extended lip on the inside was going to be touching the ball bearings and possibly fold under and touch the bearing race as well. It's been a long while since the photos above were posted. Are you still on here? Did you install those seals? Did you notice they would interfere with the bearing?

I don't think i'll be using these, as they do not appear to be the correct seal for this application. Maybe they're for a REAR wheel bearing?

 

[mitsuturbo]

Timken 225230 is listed in their catalog and on rockauto for outer front wheel seal, but this simply has too much rubber on the inner part. The oem seal i pulled out looks nothing like this. It looks just like any other standard double lip seal such as you'd find on a crankshaft front or rear main.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
the extended lip on the inside was going to be touching the ball bearings and possibly fold under and touch the bearing race as well.



Which side are you installing toward the bearing/race?

 

[mitsuturbo]

Well, i found out.. THOSE are the wrong seals. Those aren't even actually TIMKEN product. I looked closely at the ones i got first in the timken package, and they're NOK seals with a different P/N on them.

AutoZone had 2 in stock. They bring them out, and guy hands me a seal like i already have, and the RIGHT seal. Both with the same P/N. Only difference is the proper seal says "Made in Taiwan" on the wrapper, and the wrong one (NOK) says "Made in Japan" on the wrapper. So since they only had one "right" seal, i bought that, and then went over to O'reilly and got another one. It's a "National" seal, but it will work.

I got my wheel bearings all back together and my brakes mounted, finally. Now i have two NOK seals that are useless because Timken apparently fucked up. Considering they cost a total of about $7 from Rockauto, it's not really worth the time and effort to return them.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Quoting mitsuturbo:
the extended lip on the inside was going to be touching the ball bearings and possibly fold under and touch the bearing race as well.



Which side are you installing toward the bearing/race?


I was trying to install the same as the ones i pulled out. Flat side out. Like pretty much any other seal is supposed to be installed.

 

[bobdole]

[quote name=mitsuturbo went over to O'reilly and got another one. It's a "National" seal, but it will work.



What part# did you get from National? I had an issue with there's.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Same P/N as Timken, actually. I had no issue with it other than it was a little more difficult to install than the timken seal.

 

[EfiniX]

OMG, the bearings on JNZ are a freakin' fortune!