WOW - 4G64 cyro/MicroBlue polished crank

[JNR]

Well, if you do break it in with synthetic, don't ever put anything else in...

There are a lot of lubes and other gunk in the system as well, that to me a heavier oil may help keep moving along, so to speak....you do have some extra insurance with the coatings...I think the most important part of a break in is the cam/valvetrain, with immediately bring it up to ~2,500rpms for 20 mins or so...then change the oil.

 

[grocery_getter]

Terry,

What this has got to do with old pistons? You are not breaking in the pistons.

My concerns are with the rings and bore finish.

Are you going to reuse the old rings with the old pistons? Did you get the bore re-hone?

A non detergent 30W is what we used to break in rings for one heat cycle in brand new motor. It is a very thin oil that is used to flush the bearings and all the journals. After one heat cycle we will replace the filter and oil and put in new filter with detergent 30w. That first heat cycle is also a good time to be looking for leaks and burp the cooling system properly while waiting for the engine to come up to temperature. Afterwards its good to pull that valve cover and retorque your head fasteners.

Detergent 30w will be used for breaking in the new rings properly. I don't let my customer put in synthetic in their motor till at least 1000 miles, and even then its 15w40 synthetic or 20w50 synthetic.

The 10w30 synthetic is too thin, leave that for the Camrys and other low powered 4 banger.

Notice I never mention breaking in the bearings or breaking in the cams (I don't know why people still insist that they need to be breaking in the cams even with our roller rockers) When breaking in these motors, your only concerns should just be seating the rings to wall properly. You'll never get the rings to seat right with synthetic.

Andre

 

[Terry Posten]

I never removed the head or pistons. The crank broke and I caught it before any damage was done to the rods block or main caps. I was only a mile from my home and I was able to limp it home under 1500 revs.

So the piston rings/walls are fully seated from over a year ago when Mark at AMS built this motor.

When I got the motor, it was a complete long block with the head and intake fully assembled. There was no cams in the head so I put my 3G lifters, rockers, and 264 cams in from my last motor.

I never cracked the head from the block. The cams/lifters have about 50 miles on them in this motor so they already have oil up there.

I plan on unpluging the MPI relay to spin the motor over for a little bit before I apply fire and fuel. That should get the oil pumping. I do have an oil pressure gauge so I will be able to see oil pressure rise.

SSSOOOO, when I stated that the pistons were a year old, I meant that the pistons/rings were already seated and have plenty of miles on them.



I will be going to 40 oil in a few hundred miles along with a new filter.

 

[grocery_getter]

Got it Chief!

Andre

 

[toybreaker]

Terry, before you put the t-belt on, prelube your motor with the oil pump.

Just take a 14mm socket on a cordless screwdriver/drill and turn up the oil pump (clockwise) for a minute or two. That will push oil thru the whole system, filling the filter, all the passages, and the lifters. You can tell it's working when the drill bogs down a little.
Then just keep going untill you don't hear any squishy noises. (That's air being bled out in various places from the bearings, lifters, etc)

Please, do NOT use an impact, or even an air ratchet, because you can over tighten the oil pump sprocket nut, stripping or breaking it in the process. The oil will resist, and higher power tools=trouble.

If you do this with the valve cover off, be sure to cover the two lifter passage bleed holes at the cam gear end of the passages. If you don't you're going to spray the bottom of the hood, (not that I would know or anything /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif )

I prelube all the motors I build this way, and it works sweet!!!

 

I think this whole thing about breaking in an engine with heavier viscosity dino-oil is somewhat obsolete. I know plenty of ace mechanics who swear this is the correct procedure but I also know that some very high-end luxury and performance cars come from the factory filled with full synthetic and recommend synthetic for the life of the car. My theory is that improved manufacturing techniques and the resulting tighter tolerances in engine components has made the entire break-in process...from ring seating to bearings...a much less critical issue. Since the Japanese are at the forefront of these manufacturing improvements, I would expect the above to be true even for an older engine like the 4G63.

Mind you, I would STILL break in a new or rebuilt engine the old-school way. It can't do any harm and I'm not willing to bet my engine on my "theories". But while I would use dino-oil for a couple of short break-in cycles, I would not deviate from the manufacturer's recommended viscosity.

 

[Terry Posten]

I wish i would have done the oil pump thing before i buit the front end. But, I was dumb and the last thing I did was bolt the oil pan on. So I can't pre-lube that way.

I did use a full coat of lithium greese on all journals including the oil pump shaft and that should help until the oil is pumped/flushed through the bearing surfaces.

Thanks.

 

[1uGlyGalaNt]

The only reason I run dino oil for initial start-up is so that I'm not wasting $80 worth of oil when I change it right away.


To prime, I just make sure that the car has oil pressure and turn it over (using the starter, not manually) with the fuel and spark disconnected a few times before I fire it up.


And as far as bottom end assembly, I like to let a machine shop do it. I'll do a stock rebuild or something, but for a high HP race motor or some strange combo of crank and bearings, I take it to a shop. I have the know-how and the tools, but I would rather have the experts do it. Plus, they can high-speed balance the rotating assembly, flywheel, clutch, harmonic dampner and all!

 

[464/2K]

easiest way to prime is to pull the MPI fuse.

 

[grocery_getter]

Crank with the MPI fuse out and all the plugs out (no load on bearing) and crank with starter while you have your battery hooked up to a 40A charger so it doesn't drain your battery. Crank till you see the idiot oil light turned off and crank a bit more after that. Peek from your oil filler cap to verify you got oil in the head. Sometimes I put the 10mm banjo bolt turbo oil feed line semi tight just to verify that oil is leaking at that location. Tighten afterwards.

I usually would heavily pack the oil pump relieve with Redline assembly lube to make it easier for the oil pump to pull vacuum.

Andre

Quote:
I wish i would have done the oil pump thing before i buit the front end. But, I was dumb and the last thing I did was bolt the oil pan on. So I can't pre-lube that way.

I did use a full coat of lithium greese on all journals including the oil pump shaft and that should help until the oil is pumped/flushed through the bearing surfaces.

Thanks.

 

[grocery_getter]

Quote:

Mind you, I would STILL break in a new or rebuilt engine the old-school way. It can't do any harm and I'm not willing to bet my engine on my "theories". But while I would use dino-oil for a couple of short break-in cycles, I would not deviate from the manufacturer's recommended viscosity.



Manufacturer recommended viscosity is for a 195HP motor and revving to 7000rpm.

Andre

 

[slugsgomoo]

i would use dino 5w30 or 10w30, let it warm up, do a couple good pulls, change it, drive it for a couple hundred miles, and then change to synthetic.

Even if you're on the old rings, there is sh*t that goes on with new bearings and such that i'd rather do a couple quick cheap changes and then switch to synthetic.

I am *not* a fan of the old-school sissy break-in. Given that my last motor had excellent compression and pulled like crazy with the "newfangled" aggressive breakin, I feel pretty confident in that theory. Break it in like you want to be able to drive it. If you just want to cruise the boulevard, then break it in that way. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[grocery_getter]

I broke in the 2.3 on the dyno making 550HP with only the first batch of cheap as dirt NAPA detergent 30w in its blood stream!

 

Isn't that how your supposed to brake em in? No leaks great, now for the fun!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

[blacksheep]

Everything I have read regarding breaking in a race motor has been with some sort of cheap oil for 1000 miles with atleast 1 or 2 changes inbetween and checking the filter etc for metal. After 1000 miles, synthetic is OK.

Now, I have no idea why the Evo, C6 etc come with Mobil 1 from factory. I have not been able to confirm that the engines come in already "broke-in".

 

[JNR]

fwiw, the LS2 (GTO, 'vette, CTS-V, SSR, TB SS, etc.) also came with Modil 1, but it ticks like a mother, so who knows if that contributes?

 

Quote:
Quote:

Mind you, I would STILL break in a new or rebuilt engine the old-school way. It can't do any harm and I'm not willing to bet my engine on my "theories". But while I would use dino-oil for a couple of short break-in cycles, I would not deviate from the manufacturer's recommended viscosity.



Manufacturer recommended viscosity is for a 195HP motor and revving to 7000rpm.

Andre



If your Oil temp doesn't see above 125 deg Celsius, then there's no point running anything thicker if you've stuck to Mitsi's tolerances /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I thought you knew better......

 

[grocery_getter]

Talk to me after your driven oil pump shaft made nice aluminum love to the bore.

I *do* know better.

 

[Terry Posten]

She is running. I have a longer post in my 2.3 thread.

All seams (knock on wood) good.

I will be running this oil for a hundred miles or so and then replace. I just want to be safe. As the temp here in Iowa rises, I want just a little heavier oil anyway.

Thanks all.

 

Quote:
Talk to me after your driven oil pump shaft made nice aluminum love to the bore.

I *do* know better.



Why not just get a new Lower Timing plate and Oil Pump instead of taking a step backwards by running thicker oil and loose clearances to compensate..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

Anyway, enough high-jacking from me....