why am i blowing turbo's.... ?!?!?!?!

[Terry Posten]

If the VC was bead blasted, the grit gets trapped inside the VC and ends up in the turbo bearings.

I would run a small in-line filter and make sure the oil is clean.

 

[curtis]

3 things to check and I have seen these mistakes made numerious times.

1 check the 3 bolt flange inside the valve cover. Its the regulator feeding the turbo. I saw a guy go through 3 turbos before he relized this wasn't torqued down.
2 is the bango bolt a bango bolt, I've seen where a normal bolt was put in and no oil means death to the turbo.
3 Is the bearings in the motor all good and was the balance shaft bearings rotated when removed. That oh it will be ok sh*t is for the birds. The people that do it I'm sure want do it to there own cars.



Always when installing a turbo check the drain on the turbo. Just put a can bottle cup etc on the ground with the line going in it. You want about a 16 oz bottle to fill up a minute is what I've always hear as a rule of thumb but a ball bearing will be less. If you over pressurized the ball bearings it actually slows the turbo down on spool and washes out the seals which creates a leak and wear. The turbine usually goes first with these type things. If the compressor side has more wear its from low oil pressure at start up and low rpm's. When my schwitzer came off after 2 weeks when i found crankwalk that's what we figured out what was happening It was so severe the oil was just flowing out to the pan.

 

Quoting kerry92gvr4:
compression was 146 146 145 135 so i know that is not the best but i don't think that's my problem ?? no i replaced the pcv with one from mitsu and am going to change my feed line back to the head from the filter housing and see if that helps. yeah the vc has been painted at some point but how would that affect it? the cover is still breathing as far as i can tell. and also the vent off the side of the vc goes to nowhere because my setup don't have a spot for me to return it to the intake. oh and also if it was rings i would think it would be a more constant thing right ???



My answer was for the original poster, not this highjacked question. Why not just start and new tread?

 

[GolfBall]

Quoting curtis:
3 things to check and I have seen these mistakes made numerious times.

1 check the 3 bolt flange inside the valve cover. Its the regulator feeding the turbo. I saw a guy go through 3 turbos before he relized this wasn't torqued down.
2 is the bango bolt a bango bolt, I've seen where a normal bolt was put in and no oil means death to the turbo.
3 Is the bearings in the motor all good and was the balance shaft bearings rotated when removed. That oh it will be ok sh*t is for the birds. The people that do it I'm sure want do it to there own cars.



Always when installing a turbo check the drain on the turbo. Just put a can bottle cup etc on the ground with the line going in it. You want about a 16 oz bottle to fill up a minute is what I've always hear as a rule of thumb but a ball bearing will be less. If you over pressurized the ball bearings it actually slows the turbo down on spool and washes out the seals which creates a leak and wear. The turbine usually goes first with these type things. If the compressor side has more wear its from low oil pressure at start up and low rpm's. When my schwitzer came off after 2 weeks when i found crankwalk that's what we figured out what was happening It was so severe the oil was just flowing out to the pan.



well the first two are invalid cause im running off the filter housing....

and the balance shafts are all there and stock....


i do like the idea of pulling the drain line and running the car and seeing how fast the oil comes out.... might have to do that when i get the turbo rebuilt....

 

Are you pulling off of the correct port? Please look at the link I posted and let me know.