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Where to buy Stainless steel exhaust manifold studs?
- Thread starter bobdole
- Start date
curtis
Well-known member
Not a fan of these
You really need the heat treated with the copper colored nuts.
Stainless is hell to cut but is really weak when it comes to stress strain and heat.
You really need the heat treated with the copper colored nuts.
Stainless is hell to cut but is really weak when it comes to stress strain and heat.
boostedinaz
Well-known member
Stainless Studs.
I bought mine from these guys and they worked very well. I never had one break and swap out my exhaust mani a few times.
EDIT: They also have thread repair kits you can order at the same time if you have to fix any stripped threads.
I bought mine from these guys and they worked very well. I never had one break and swap out my exhaust mani a few times.
EDIT: They also have thread repair kits you can order at the same time if you have to fix any stripped threads.
Last edited:
SleepinGVR4
Well-known member
+1 I got mine from FP.
christo
Well-known member
TylerAdamson
Well-known member
I'd stay away from the ARP fasteners that FFWD sells. I had issues with the hex keys stripping out on multiple sets and I was using the correct key. Others might have had better luck, but that was my experience with them.
misterfixit
Well-known member
Need to a286 or better (160ksi up) as the 300 series cres steels won't be up to the job.
Rich
Rich
boostedinaz
Well-known member
Quoting TylerAdamson:
I'd stay away from the ARP fasteners that FFWD sells. I had issues with the hex keys stripping out on multiple sets and I was using the correct key. Others might have had better luck, but that was my experience with them.
While annoying not really a huge issue. The stock studs as well as other aftermarket studs don't have the key in them anyway.
I'd stay away from the ARP fasteners that FFWD sells. I had issues with the hex keys stripping out on multiple sets and I was using the correct key. Others might have had better luck, but that was my experience with them.
While annoying not really a huge issue. The stock studs as well as other aftermarket studs don't have the key in them anyway.
TylerAdamson
Well-known member
If a key way won't hold up to the stresses from the heat then how can I trust the stud itself to hold up? Since that experience I've used OEM studs exclusively and haven't looked back nor have I had any issues. I also run a tap into every hole to make sure the threads are clean.
Good idea on chasing the threads, although be sure to remove all the chippings from the blind hole (can be PITA) and don't forget the anti-seize lube when you install them; especially if you plan on removing them. Most people would probably recommend copper-based AS lube, but I've had good luck using the regular 'silver' permatex stuff, fwiw.
Stainless is a hard material, as mentioned and not always recommended on an application that sees excessive heat/cool cycles and esp. when you use stainless on stainless...A quality black oxide stud will be nice and if you keep it sprayed with some oil from time to time, will not rust for the most part.
If you gat "regular" studs w/o a 'key' to tighten, then take two nuts...screw one on the stud far enough down to allow a second nut to go on...tighten the first nut (bottom) against the second nut (top)...use the top one to tightent into threaded hole (bottom one to remove stud) and to remove the nuts, just hold the bottom and loosen the top nut...Be careful with torquing into aluminum though; especially cold aluminum!
Stainless is a hard material, as mentioned and not always recommended on an application that sees excessive heat/cool cycles and esp. when you use stainless on stainless...A quality black oxide stud will be nice and if you keep it sprayed with some oil from time to time, will not rust for the most part.
If you gat "regular" studs w/o a 'key' to tighten, then take two nuts...screw one on the stud far enough down to allow a second nut to go on...tighten the first nut (bottom) against the second nut (top)...use the top one to tightent into threaded hole (bottom one to remove stud) and to remove the nuts, just hold the bottom and loosen the top nut...Be careful with torquing into aluminum though; especially cold aluminum!
Whoodoo
Well-known member
I bought ones identical to stock from tacoma screw. I think they are local though.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
there's an old thread about BMW exh. mani studs out there..
ask (search) and you shall receive
ask (search) and you shall receive
RedTwo
Well-known member
ASA isn't very intuitive on these bits for some reason and I could have sworn there are 2 different sized studs on the exhaust manifold /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Stud, cylinder head - 8x28 - MD005317
Stud, cylinder head - 8x28 - MD005317
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
that's on the 2g T/E/L.. they have a 10mm stud on each end of the exh mani and 8mm studs all in-between
a common "upgrade/mod" is to tap out the end holes for a 10mm stud... it works wonders for sealing and holding the exh mani tight to the head
a common "upgrade/mod" is to tap out the end holes for a 10mm stud... it works wonders for sealing and holding the exh mani tight to the head
^^^will the oem exhaust manifold have sufficient clearance for a 10 mm nut (turning and/or socket clearance)? It's been a while since I've seen one and you may be alright, but just something to consider/verify before all the work then having it on there and the "oh chit" thought when you realize you have to pull, modify and all that, lol.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
Quoting JNR:
^^^will the oem exhaust manifold have sufficient clearance for a 10 mm nut (turning and/or socket clearance)? It's been a while since I've seen one and you may be alright, but just something to consider/verify before all the work then having it on there and the "oh chit" thought when you realize you have to pull, modify and all that, lol.
I'll provide photos of my head tonight, or maybe at lunchtime. The 2g exh mani has larger holes on each end, IIRC.
^^^will the oem exhaust manifold have sufficient clearance for a 10 mm nut (turning and/or socket clearance)? It's been a while since I've seen one and you may be alright, but just something to consider/verify before all the work then having it on there and the "oh chit" thought when you realize you have to pull, modify and all that, lol.
I'll provide photos of my head tonight, or maybe at lunchtime. The 2g exh mani has larger holes on each end, IIRC.
I don't want to see your head /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif lol.
Yeah, I imagine the 2G manifold would be fine, as it was designed for it...Was thinking of an EVO III or maybe an FP manifold and not so much the hole, but the shoulder, in respect to the primary "tube", or other potential interference, if that makes sense...May not even be an issue though.
Yeah, I imagine the 2G manifold would be fine, as it was designed for it...Was thinking of an EVO III or maybe an FP manifold and not so much the hole, but the shoulder, in respect to the primary "tube", or other potential interference, if that makes sense...May not even be an issue though.
