what to do 2.0 or 2.3 stroker?

[NateCrisman]

Quoting slugsgomoo:


I think aside from the eventual reliability issues, the best reason to build a motor is for driveability. Yeah, you can go damn fast on a stock six bolt, but the lack of low to mid range power versus a higher compression 2.0 or even 2.3/4 is awful- especially if you get spoiled on something that has that extra torque /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Now, that being said, i'm not going to suggest building a motor with aluminum rods, monster pistons, blah blah for every street car. That being said, a set of WisecoHD on eagles isn't that much more than doing 2g pistons, and it's a pretty good mod if your motor is tired and putting out low comp numbers anyway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif



It's not so much that I don't recommend forged pistons/rods over stock pistons/rods, it's more that I don't recommend BUILDING a motor at all. The wiseco/eagle combo costs only $400 more than a new set of oem pistons & ring set and reusing your old 6bolt rods. It's the cost of machine work, bearings, seals, gaskets and such that adds up in the end.

In the end, now that good running 6bolt engines are so cheap (running shortblocks can be had for $150!) unless you need a build up engine for durability, I just can't justify the expense of $1500 for a stock rebuild/$2000 for a forged rebuild when compared to an original $150 junkyard/partout motor.

Not to mention engines assembled by mitsu always last longer than engines assembled by you, me, or the local machine shop. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

you should go with a 4g64 2.4 stroker, but thats just me! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[vr4play]

I have a built 2.0 ltr in my car and I kick myself all the time for not stroking it. It runs way better than my stock 2.0 but I built a 2.3 for someone else with stock manifolds fp2 cams and a gt3065 and that car was a rocket ship. It had no lag at all. When you pressed the gas pedal in 1st or 2nd gear all 4 tires would start to spin instantly anything over 3k. We were only running 22psi on pump. It made power all the way to 8k no problem. If I had to do it again that is the combo I would use.

 

I have to agree. When my motor gave out last year I went over the options with a buddy and he talked me into doing a 2.3 and im glad I did. I didnt have to use aftermarket rods but decided to anyway.

 

Nice thanks guys I'm gonna do the 2.3 I'd always wonder what I was missing if I don't. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

I think it all really depends on if you have the money to throw around.

 

[Dialcaliper]

This is one of the best pieces of advice you can pay attention to. I set out to start rebuilding a motor in the way I wanted to, replacing everything I thought was worn with shiny new OEM parts, and ended up with a JNZ order for over $1500 in just stuff like gaskets, water pump, bolts, etc.

That's not including any aftermarket parts like pistons and rods, machine work, tools I ended up needing, fluids (you can spend over $100 on a single change of oil and gear lube if you opt for the synthetic stuff, plus you'll need some dino oil for breakin).

Quoting prove_it:
Oh and since your a noob I'm going to let you in on a secret, once you start a build it's not the big things that cost money, it's all the little things that add up. Fluids, bolts, sub-let work, machine work, hoses, belts, ball joints, etc. those add up fast, trust me. You can spend a hundred bucks on a handful of proper bolts for a mitsu.

 

[prove_it]

right, and when you build your new shiny motor your going to change the oil right after the first start and warmup, then again at 50 miles, then again at 100, then again at 500, then again at 1000, then you can go to regualar maintence. that's how I always do it.
You might even need new oil squirters too, little things you NEVER can plan for, unless you have a brand new OEM engine with 50 miles on it.
Don't forget you'll probably need some tools you don't have, so figure that in too. I have never been able to stay on budget when building an engine. That's just how it is.

Simply put, slap some bolt-ons on and have some fun before you rip the car apart and put it on jackstands. The car won't come off for at least 20 years or so.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

Thanks for all the input guys! I need all the help I can get, the 4G63 is a whole new a beast for me. I've built small block Chevy's and a supra engine (7M NOT 2JZ.)But I'm worried about crank walk how do I make make sure it doesn't do that?

 

[beigetsi]

Some think crank walk is a myth. I have never nor have anyone I know experienced this. They say it is prone to the 7 bolts in the 2g eclipse due to the clearly inferior crank size(looks weaker) as well as the coating some say the 6 bolt cranks have from the factory making them less possible to walk. Lamcerman (Jerry on tampabaydsm)has done many write ups on this. I'm not sure how galants fair but it's not something you need to worry about in my opinon.