Quoting brunoboy:
how do you order from the site anyways???
I ordered off eBay, shipped the same day and here in three but obviously Malaysia is much closer to me.
Quoting GVR40:
Something you would recommended for a track car Paul?
Definitely! There is a noticeable difference in handling which surprised me and it has quite obviously eliminated chassis flex in my car and for any car used in motorsport, chassis stiffening can only be a good thing. Again I would take the time to reinforce the area you are bolting the front support to, the same goes for Brian with a rally car so I'll address this below as well.
Quoting DR1665:
I've actually been thinking about picking up a set of these for the rally car, since my cage will not be going through the firewall to the front turrets. Galants are nose-heavy bitches and prone to hard landings. My concern is that I'll start bending the nose upward over time. A set of these (or similar, probably have Kent make them), combined with proper triangulation from the turrets to the center of the firewall would be a nice compromise, imo.
That was pretty much what I did on my other car welding in supports between the strut towers and firewall since I only have a half cage/roll bar. I also welded some flat stock vertically onto the chassis in front of the hinges and some 1/2 inch metal rod horizontally along the top of those rails that run parallel to the edge of the hood under the fender, but I didn't triangulate the two so I may fit a pair of these onto that car in the future. I think welding in a plate would work for a street car, in fact it may already be overkill for a daily driver but for the sort of abuse that you are suggesting, I am really not sure it is enough. The box section that the front support attaches to just seems very thin to me and even if you weld a plate in I would be concerned about the thinner metal on either side of it deforming. That was why when I did my other car I didn't use Curtis' nice lightweight subframe connectors but used really thick heavy angle iron instead. Once the car is running I will have mounting plates made for my roll bar that I can weld between the subframe connector and the pinch rail under the door sill and add triangular supports on each side.
For the rally car I'd be inclined (weight permitting) to weld 1/4 inch plates to both sides of that rail. One inside the engine bay with one edge welded right into the crease where the strut tower meets the edge of the engine bay. The one on the outside I would make rectangular extending forward at least as far as the forward support point of this fender bar. Then I would drill a hole right through both plates and the rail, run a bar through it and tie that into the other bar you intend to weld between the strut tower and the firewall. I would also weld right around the circumference of the bar where it passes through the plates. When you build your own fender bars, tie them into your door hinges but use all three bolts on the upper hinge (not just two as with this design) and in addition to making one forward support point just behind the strut tower as with these, tie in a 4th attachment point where your support bar goes through the rail. Depending on how far you want to go you could do the same at the bottom in front of the bottom hinge and weld in a vertical support bar between the two. The next airtime you get you'll probably bend the planet.
Quoting 3of1000:
Sounds like the ractive pedals get a bad rap because of how they hold to the oem pedals. If all they have are some tabs that you bend around the pedals then that is a huge fail IMO. Once the tabs get weak and break the aftermarket pedal is no longer "attached" to the oem pedal.
Actually, point taken. This is exactly the problem I encountered fitting these initially and had to get a bit creative. Over the summer I may do exactly as you suggest and 'bolt' some mounting plates onto the oem metal pedals that these can attach to better.