Ming has worked there for at least a couple of years IIRC.
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Tranny rebuild: TRE or Shep?
- Thread starter CP
- Start date
Ming was there when I had my tranny there. It certainly didn't make it faster.
Mine took 3 weeks, and I'm not pleased witht he results so far. I've always had to SHOVE it hard to get it into first gear, and its not loosening up much at 1600+ miles. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif It also "catches" as it goes into most gears, sort of feels like a slight clunk, not what I would call a smooth engagement, and I've run BG Syncroshift II in it from the beginning. Another $1800 down the toilet. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Jeff, what kind of clutch? What kind/size of slave cylinder?
I just switched over to the smaller diameter slave cylinder and my car now shifts like buttah. I had Shep do mine, and it was acting exactly as you describe.
I've got an ACT 2600, btw.
twkd
I just switched over to the smaller diameter slave cylinder and my car now shifts like buttah. I had Shep do mine, and it was acting exactly as you describe.
I've got an ACT 2600, btw.
twkd
I had TRE do mine also. Wait was no issue since the car wasn't going to be on the road for the winter.
But like Keydiver I too have that clunking syndrom. (Still better than it was before the build - but certainly not like buddah)
Maybe I'll have to check out the smaller dia. slave cylinder.
But like Keydiver I too have that clunking syndrom. (Still better than it was before the build - but certainly not like buddah)
Maybe I'll have to check out the smaller dia. slave cylinder.
If you switch to the smaller diameter slave cylinder, it is imperative that you bleed it with the adjusting screw at the pedal assembly set to somewhere near the middle of its range. Then adjust it like you need to.
twkd
twkd
Quote:
Jeff, what kind of clutch? What kind/size of slave cylinder?
Centerforce dual-friction with an RRE stepped and lightened flywheel. But, I ran that for ~1 year before the trans swap, and it was fine. Stock slave cylinder.
Jeff, what kind of clutch? What kind/size of slave cylinder?
Centerforce dual-friction with an RRE stepped and lightened flywheel. But, I ran that for ~1 year before the trans swap, and it was fine. Stock slave cylinder.
hey, my brothers gvr4 has a shift problem. When the car is cold, there is no shifting problem. Once it has had time to warm up it does not want to stay in 1st gear. VERY BAD grinding. We have to shove into second then first and then hold with both hands to keep it in. any ideas? 2600 lb clutch. thx
joe
joe
Luke
Well-known member
Where do you get the smaller diameter slave cylinder ?
CP
Well-known member
We put the Shep Stage 2 transmission (1991) with the LSD insert and 1G first gear in this Sunday. Some comments:
The tranny came back from Shep looking brand new. He bead blasted it, then painted it bright silver. All the rubber vents were replaced, along with the axle seals and vent nub.
The install went smoothly. I can't stress enough how easy it is taking the transmission out and reinstalling it by hand; the jack method is troublesome. I've been using a burly friend laying underneath the car for removal/installation purposes. He basically benchpresses it back into place with me pulling/guiding it from above. Using this method, it always slides back on in less than 30 seconds. It's easier to maneuver and tilt this way, which can't really be done when using a jack.
It's super tight and notchy (running some VERY light, thin Pennzoil fluid for break-in for a few weeks), and feels pretty much like the one we took out...stock 92 w/ 150K miles. The new one is supposed to take a couple hundred miles to sort itself out and loosen up a bit. The first couple of shifts should be done very carefully, and be sure that your shift linkages are adjusted correctly. I've been double-clutching for the last day, since it seems to like that for now.
However, the looseness that I had thought was a bad rear diff is gone now, so it must have been the VC that was going in the old unit. It also does not hum/vibrate over 85mph anymore either, so that's good too. I hammered it on the entrance ramp getting onto the freeway this morning and I can feel the difference the "LSD insert" makes in pulling the front end around ;^) I can't wait to get this thing on the track.
When doing this job, be sure to use a NEW throwout bearing every time. The one that came off with the old tranny had some issues. It was re-used after one removal about 6 months ago. I had had the tranny hanging on the shaft for a night since my helper was unavailable at the time, with no bolts holding it on. Big mistake. The TOB has been rattling since that install, and was rather annoying. Upon removal, it appears that the TOB was torqued slightly, and the hole that the shaft slides into was off-center a bit, resulting in the rattling sound at idle. The new TOB doesn't do that anymore. I also used some nice Redline high-velocity CV joint grease on all the shafts so they mesh smoothly, and put anti-seize on EVERY bolt that came off during the install, including on the brake rotors so my wheels will come off easily when I want them to in the future.
The tranny came back from Shep looking brand new. He bead blasted it, then painted it bright silver. All the rubber vents were replaced, along with the axle seals and vent nub.
The install went smoothly. I can't stress enough how easy it is taking the transmission out and reinstalling it by hand; the jack method is troublesome. I've been using a burly friend laying underneath the car for removal/installation purposes. He basically benchpresses it back into place with me pulling/guiding it from above. Using this method, it always slides back on in less than 30 seconds. It's easier to maneuver and tilt this way, which can't really be done when using a jack.
It's super tight and notchy (running some VERY light, thin Pennzoil fluid for break-in for a few weeks), and feels pretty much like the one we took out...stock 92 w/ 150K miles. The new one is supposed to take a couple hundred miles to sort itself out and loosen up a bit. The first couple of shifts should be done very carefully, and be sure that your shift linkages are adjusted correctly. I've been double-clutching for the last day, since it seems to like that for now.
However, the looseness that I had thought was a bad rear diff is gone now, so it must have been the VC that was going in the old unit. It also does not hum/vibrate over 85mph anymore either, so that's good too. I hammered it on the entrance ramp getting onto the freeway this morning and I can feel the difference the "LSD insert" makes in pulling the front end around ;^) I can't wait to get this thing on the track.
When doing this job, be sure to use a NEW throwout bearing every time. The one that came off with the old tranny had some issues. It was re-used after one removal about 6 months ago. I had had the tranny hanging on the shaft for a night since my helper was unavailable at the time, with no bolts holding it on. Big mistake. The TOB has been rattling since that install, and was rather annoying. Upon removal, it appears that the TOB was torqued slightly, and the hole that the shaft slides into was off-center a bit, resulting in the rattling sound at idle. The new TOB doesn't do that anymore. I also used some nice Redline high-velocity CV joint grease on all the shafts so they mesh smoothly, and put anti-seize on EVERY bolt that came off during the install, including on the brake rotors so my wheels will come off easily when I want them to in the future.
Quote:
I've been using a burly friend laying underneath the car for removal/installation purposes. He basically benchpresses it back into place with me pulling/guiding it from above. Using this method, it always slides back on in less than 30 seconds. It's easier to maneuver and tilt this way, which can't really be done when using a jack.
I couldn't agree more with this statement. 2 people and it almost instantly slides on. I alway seem to be the "burly" guy on the bottom bench pressing however (and I am anything but burly).
As far as the throwout bearing goes, I have a few theories about that from my friends experiences and mine as well.
The throwout bearing that is in my car came with my act 2100 kit, and was used for roughly 20,000 miles with numerous (100+) hard launches. A mix of daily driver and track beater. This was with the shaft (input shaft) that the bearing rides on BONE DRY. Absolutely no friction reducing lube at all. Grease on the fork/tb contact area only. No rattles, squeeks, failure whatsover. The clutch disc eventually wore out to where a 5000rpm launch wasn't conceivable.
Then, I purchase a new slowboy clutch disc and pressure plate (competition clutch) and I carefully inspect the throwout bearing (they ARE cheap, and wise to replace, however...) I check the play on the tb/input shaft, play in the bearing, and how freely it spun. Seemed fine, slapped it back in (WITH SILICON GREASE ON THE SHAFT THIS TIME). No noise, no problems. Then it turns out the pressure plate is defective after 50 miles (Sent back - 4 months later and still no replaced clutch - they are covered though) and so I have to move on.
I pick up an act 2100/2600 street disc, and slap in the 2100 pressure plate with 20,000 miles on it. Re-use the throwout bearing AGAIN, and to this day (8,000 miles later) no noise, whine, anything at idle, clutch depressed or in gear. This tb came with the act kit - it's not mitsu.
People say to get the mitsu throwout bearing and ditch the one in the kit - it's your preference - but this should make you realize the one in the kit is fine.
I have had friends who had their tb's go (or start chattering/whining) after a couple thousand miles. Clutch pedal assemblies being worn, worn input shafts, improperly adjusted master cylinders, and clutch slave rods being too long have attributed to their failures. If the tb rides the pressure plate all the time, you're going to have this happen. Shim your pivot ball while you're in there, replace your master and slave accordingly (I ran the originals for a while, so use judgement and check their condition - rubber chunks in the reservoir, master leaking inside the cabin down the firewall are giveaways). Also follow RRE's tip for adjusting your master. The clutch should not grab right off the floor.
Lastly, I recommend 6000rpm reverse launches to break in your clutch /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
I've been using a burly friend laying underneath the car for removal/installation purposes. He basically benchpresses it back into place with me pulling/guiding it from above. Using this method, it always slides back on in less than 30 seconds. It's easier to maneuver and tilt this way, which can't really be done when using a jack.
I couldn't agree more with this statement. 2 people and it almost instantly slides on. I alway seem to be the "burly" guy on the bottom bench pressing however (and I am anything but burly).
As far as the throwout bearing goes, I have a few theories about that from my friends experiences and mine as well.
The throwout bearing that is in my car came with my act 2100 kit, and was used for roughly 20,000 miles with numerous (100+) hard launches. A mix of daily driver and track beater. This was with the shaft (input shaft) that the bearing rides on BONE DRY. Absolutely no friction reducing lube at all. Grease on the fork/tb contact area only. No rattles, squeeks, failure whatsover. The clutch disc eventually wore out to where a 5000rpm launch wasn't conceivable.
Then, I purchase a new slowboy clutch disc and pressure plate (competition clutch) and I carefully inspect the throwout bearing (they ARE cheap, and wise to replace, however...) I check the play on the tb/input shaft, play in the bearing, and how freely it spun. Seemed fine, slapped it back in (WITH SILICON GREASE ON THE SHAFT THIS TIME). No noise, no problems. Then it turns out the pressure plate is defective after 50 miles (Sent back - 4 months later and still no replaced clutch - they are covered though) and so I have to move on.
I pick up an act 2100/2600 street disc, and slap in the 2100 pressure plate with 20,000 miles on it. Re-use the throwout bearing AGAIN, and to this day (8,000 miles later) no noise, whine, anything at idle, clutch depressed or in gear. This tb came with the act kit - it's not mitsu.
People say to get the mitsu throwout bearing and ditch the one in the kit - it's your preference - but this should make you realize the one in the kit is fine.
I have had friends who had their tb's go (or start chattering/whining) after a couple thousand miles. Clutch pedal assemblies being worn, worn input shafts, improperly adjusted master cylinders, and clutch slave rods being too long have attributed to their failures. If the tb rides the pressure plate all the time, you're going to have this happen. Shim your pivot ball while you're in there, replace your master and slave accordingly (I ran the originals for a while, so use judgement and check their condition - rubber chunks in the reservoir, master leaking inside the cabin down the firewall are giveaways). Also follow RRE's tip for adjusting your master. The clutch should not grab right off the floor.
Lastly, I recommend 6000rpm reverse launches to break in your clutch /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
gvr4ever
Well-known member
I'm not going to use Shep again. Overall, the guy seems great, but my first rebuild lasted about 6 months with no racing, no high RPM launches, and basicly just daily driver. The problem, 3rd gear poped out and didn't want to go in right. I some how wore out my upgraded shift forks. I sent it back to him thinking I had some waranty work, but it cost $450 to replace stock shift forks. I think my total rebuilds was close to $1600 (for two rebuilds). The 2nd rebuild seems to be okay, but I felt I spent way too much money on a working trans.
I don't know who I will go with next if I have any more trans rebuild needs, but it will not be Shep. I don't know if I was just unluckly, but I was pretty pissed to spend $1300 on my first rebuild that was pretty much useless. Right now, my trans shifts like butter, everything seems to be working perfect, but it cost way too damn much seeing I havn't raced my car at all.
I don't know who I will go with next if I have any more trans rebuild needs, but it will not be Shep. I don't know if I was just unluckly, but I was pretty pissed to spend $1300 on my first rebuild that was pretty much useless. Right now, my trans shifts like butter, everything seems to be working perfect, but it cost way too damn much seeing I havn't raced my car at all.
Never experienced a breakage with my Shep tranny, but I will say I hated it. Paid alot of money, never did shift right, sent it back to him (paid shipping myself) and was returned stating nothing was wrong.
Sent it to TRE and it was found that the wrong 3rd & 4th syncro's were installed. My TRE revamped Shep tranny shifts better with 500 miles on it than it did from Shep after 1500 miles. I will never send another tranny to Shep.
Not bashing... just telling me story!
James
Sent it to TRE and it was found that the wrong 3rd & 4th syncro's were installed. My TRE revamped Shep tranny shifts better with 500 miles on it than it did from Shep after 1500 miles. I will never send another tranny to Shep.
Not bashing... just telling me story!
James
