thomcasey's rescue of #1025 build

[thomcasey]

Discovered the lovely aroma of hot brakes today. Right rear caliper e-brake decided to stick. Thankfully was able to replace it with a new one without having to turn the rotor.

 

[thomcasey]

Replaced the old paint faded trunk yesterday with a nicely painted one that I picked up on Saturday for $60.

Old and busted:


New Hotness:

 

[strokin4dr]

Nice find! Looking good.

 

[thomcasey]

Installed a new 3" stainless exhaust I picked up in Jeffersonville, In. It is GVR4 specific. Not sure who MFG'rs it, but is definitely seems professionally done. Nice welds, DynoMax muffler and a single large tip (that I need to replace since a piece is cut out of it). It is a 3 piece (downpipe, test pipe, remaining exhaust) with a test pipe that just slips over the downpipe and rear of the exhaust and secures with band clamps. Much improved sound both inside the cabin (no drone) and outside.









Type of hangers welded in place


Cold idle

 

[thomcasey]

Got the emblems back on:

 

[thomcasey]

Just chilling after an hour of stop-n-go traffic. New front fender matches perfectly. This is her good side, as the passenger side seems to have taken all the clearcoat and ding abuse (along with the roof and hood.

 

[faqinshiet]

Looks great!

 

[thomcasey]

Installed a GVR4 specific gauge pod on my spare A-pillar panel (gonna keep the original "hole free") for the boost and oil pressure gauges. I think I can get used to it. Now just need to find a location for my coolant temp gauge.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

How about one of those speaker grill pods? You could throw the temp gauge and wideband in there together.

 

[thomcasey]

Yea, I could look into one of those. I would want to modify it a little as I do have a speaker under there. If I am to give up the dash speakers, then I would need an amp to boost the front stage in the doors, which means a better alternator.

 

[Jon]

I am about 99% sure that is a Buschur 3" exhaust.

 

[thomcasey]

I was thinking that too with the DynoMax muffler. Seems he likes those. I cut the tip shorter to get rid of the monster bite that was on the outside of it. I am debating on removing the tip and installing a stainless twin tip.

 

[thomcasey]

Bought some pristine passenger doors from the same guy I bought my rear deck lid and front drivers fender from. Got the rear door installed. Front come later this week. This leaves me with 1 quarter panel to refinish along with the hood and roof. Also, the doors come with nice tinted windows, so I will save money getting the rest of the glass tinted.

Old doors


New rear door (it is a little dirty and the reflection of the Galant beside it makes it look scratched)

 

[thomcasey]

Finally got around to putting the front passenger door replacement on. Unfortunately, I had to do some modifications at the mount points (top body hinge mount and both door hinge mounts) with washers to get the rear door pushed far enough back to allow it to be opened with the front door closed and to align them. I have never seen so much difference between doors from the same year and model of car. But the work was worth it. Now the doors shut like a vault and the gaps are much cleaner than before. Now I just need the rest of the windows tinted, plus some paint and body work on the right rear QP, roof and hood.







Washers fixed it up nicely:


But, the before and after are worth it:

Before:


After:

 

[thomcasey]

I guess the power/ground system I had installed on 1025/2000 (Gretchen) was growing tired (It was all 0-gauge, but was amplifier power/ground wiring). So, I replaced the starter ground, battery ground and Battery power wires with 2-gauge Welding wire. Starting system is much happier. Now I just need a new tie-down setup for the battery in the trunk.

On 100/2000 (Gladys) we replaced the water pump and timing components. It is very fortunate that two of my sons are Ford techs. We always have lifts to use on Saturdays!



Old wiring:



New setup utilizing the rear PS line mount points.

 

[Nebraska]

Good work, she’s coming together!

I’m using one of these in my trunk. Click

That battery tray will need a quick dose of paint.

 

[thomcasey]

Sent off the blown e316g from 100/2000 (my son's GVR4) and sent it to Chris Robbins of Turbos-r-us for an upgrade.

9-blade Turbine
7-blade 20g Compressor
Machined compressor housing
new ported 7cm Exhaust Housing

End result will be the 20g in the 16g housing. I nice flowing and sneaky turbo for $200 less than a 68hta (which is what I was considering).

Looking forward to getting this installed once it comes back

 

[thomcasey]

Had a spare e316g that pushed oil, so I sent it off to Chris Robbins @ Turbos-r-us and had him work his witchcraft. I considered the 68HTA, but this is a little bigger, billet wheeled and still in the original housing. All the gasket surfaces have been machined, compressor housing has a slight polish and the new 8cm turbine housing is heat coated. Plus it came in @ over $100 less than the HTA. Can't wait to get her installed.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Looks awesome. They upgrade the thrust or is it the stock style?

 

[thomcasey]

It has the 18mm collar upgrade and dual port oil feed thrust plate upgrade.