The I hope to make "Turboren" proud build thrend.

[citymunky]

New parts and bushing in from JNZtuning. I was able to rebuild my clutch pedal with the assy still in the car. It was a major pain, but not as much as having to pull that whole assy out.

All the free play in the pedal is gone now, however it still grinding while I shift. (It just hit me that I need to adjust the clutch master cylinder input rod back to where I started out from.)




I repaired some more wires today and pulled the throttle body since the upper 8mm bolt that holds in the ICS snapped in half. I was unable to drill out the bolt since the drillpress chuck was hitting the FIAV body before the drill bit could make contact with the broken bolt. I swapped FIAVs but now I need a new gasket, so I'm at a stand still again.

 

[citymunky]

This car is really hitting me over the head, and is not willing to be road ready any time soon.

After swapping throttle bodies due to one the ISC bolt snapping clean off in the FAIV, the replacement TB was a boost leak from hell leaking pass the shaft seals.

I fould both ICS coil power wires were cut for some reason. Now the ICS don't have any movement with the car idling (I checked 3). So I need to tear into that and figure out what the he'll is going on.

I can't for the life of me figure out what is going on with my dash lights not working. I uninstalled the aftermarket head unit and jumper harness and installed a stock radio, still no lights in the dash are working.

The last and major issue is the transmission. After fixing my slack in the clutch pedal, I still can't shift into gear with the car running. I start to get a grinding sound as soon as I try.

I'm going check the cables next, after that I'm going to have to drop the transmission. To see what going on.

I feel like I should just stop and do a complete rebuild of everything. I just know how long that's going to take and I'm not looking forward to having my GVR4 down for that long. This car is taking all my time from the other projects I need to complete. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[citymunky]

Worked on the out car today with a buddy. We pulled the transmission in hopes to find out why my car didn't want to go in gear with the car running. I thought maybe the step in my fidanza flywheel was off so I swapped out for the stock flywheel. Found nothing really wrong with the flywheel fiction plate. The ACT 2100 clutch looked brand new still. (Could still see the white ACT lettering on the surface, and the pressure plate looked great).

We were debated now reusing the same tranny that was installed (which was from 1505/2000), or install the old one from my (923/2000 that has been sitting for in the corner of my garage for close to 3 years) While inspection everything that's were I noticed the clutch fork pivot ball retainer clip was bent. I was pissed because that was a new clutch fork that I got from JNZ when I was building 1505. Anyway we swapped the clutch forks and hopefully I'm good when I finish installing everything. The transmission is up, I still have the upper IC pipe and new throttle body form a buddy that I need to install, along with some other old's and ends.

 

[citymunky]

UPDATE:

I'm able to shift into gear while the car was JSB.


I still need to do some work to get her on the road, but I'm close.

I also throw in a 2g throttle body to hold me over when I get my 1g TB rebuilt. The good news is the don't have that bad idea surge anymore.

 

[citymunky]

Update: Just linking this thread to the thread discussing my Shifting into gear issue found here: click

 

[citymunky]

A friend was able to get my dash lights working. He pulled the tail light fuse and reseated twice. Bam the dash lights now work. I must of had some little corrosion build up in the fuse box. As I pulled that fuse in the past and reinstall it and it was fine.

 

[citymunky]

Pulled the transmission to swap the flywheel wheel and now that the transmission is bolted to the engine. The car will not start again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

This is starting to become project HELL car. I feel like I can't catch a break with it.

 

[transparentdsm]

check the triangle plug that goes to the started. i had a wire break right there and my car wouldn't start. oddly enough it was right after i had done a transmission swap

 

[citymunky]

I took a break and put my kid to bed. I came back hooked up link, and there it was (Coolant Temp: -79 degrees).

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I forgot to connect the wires to the coolant temperature sensor. She starts up no problem now.

 

[citymunky]

Well I was able somewhat able to figure out the "not being about to shift into gear" problem. For a recap on all the things I did to figure out that issue here is a list;

-Rebuilt clutch Pedal Assembly.
-Replaced damaged clutch fork.
-Installed stock flywheel (freshly resurfaced to .610")
-Swapped shifter cables.
-Replaced clutch slave cylinder.
-Replaced clutch master cylinder.

I was able to drive around the block once, however somewhere on that short trip my small 16g turbo is seized, and I'm not rebuilding it. I'm just going start fresh on the this restromod of 733/2k.

There was too many things I didn't like about the trying to get it road ready on the cheap, but I ignored it for the befit of having the time to mod the car slowly while being driven. That plan is not working, so it time to pull it on Jack stands for a while.

 

[citymunky]

I was on a Mimi rant when I wrote the post above this.

Today I swapped out my MHI 16g for other 16g that a local let me burrow. (It was more like him telling me to pick up the 16g from his house and go install it on the Galant). Since it was warm today, I figured it was a perfect time to do the swap. During the swap I discovered a tap from a tap and die kit was living inside my MHI exhaust housing. I noticed it when I was swapping over the O2 housing. Once I removed it, I was able to spin the compressor wheel ease again.

 

[citymunky]

I noticed, I don't have many pictures on this thread so I'm post a pic of the current situation taking place in my engine.

Since to much rusty hardware for my liking, but I need to take baby steps and get this car running. Like ordered new throttle shaft seals to fix my vacuum leak.

Today I when to go on a short drive around the block, and I noticed I can't go into reverse. When I think I'm in reverse I'm really in 4th gear since the would roll forward. I'm able to get into all the other gears roll the car forward. However there is no engagement when I tried to back out of the driveway. I can only explain it like the feeling you should get after banging Miley Cyrus....nothing but a void. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

Hopefully it just needs a cable adjustment.

 

[strokin4dr]

Your issue sounds like worn/missing shifter bushings to me.
Order 6 new OEM bushings for the repair. It's an easy job once you remove the center console.

 

[citymunky]

The center console was not fully installed so I pulled it before hand. The shifter assembly base does have a little flex with I was trying to good into reverse, so suggest noted.

I also have another shifter base hanging in the garage I can try before I order some solid bushings.

 

[strokin4dr]

I wasn't referring to the shifter base bushings, although that could help. The bushings I think you really need are the ones in the shifter assembly itself. 6 of these and 4 bushings in the base. Good luck.

 

[citymunky]

Ohhhh, like the plastic bushings that look like top hats that hold the shift arm, etc stable? IIRC I replacement them already but I don't think I replaced 6.

These?
click

 

[strokin4dr]

That's them. Don't forget the 2 in the for the side to side (left/right) motion. Sounds like that is most likely your problem.

 

[kumfasa]

Just in case you need to...
I replaced all 6 of my shifter bushings, but still had slop in the shifter. The old bushings had disintegrated along time ago and the bolt that holds the shifter on to the mounting plate had ovaled out the sleeve on the shifter!! My solution was to cut up a PET (Coke, pepsi, water) bottle and made a sleeve for the bolt to pack out the space to the shifter sleeve. I ended up with about 3 sleeves to create the right thickness and it worked great. The PET has a certain slipperiness to it that does not bind and is very durable.

 

[citymunky]

Quoting strokin4dr:
That's them. Don't forget the 2 in the for the side to side (left/right) motion. Sounds like that is most likely your problem.



The lower arm was the worst off, looked like it was packed filled harden grease than plastic bushings.


I rebuild the rest of the shifter and I took the time to swap out that ridicules long GVR4 shift arm and installed the shorter DSM shift arm. Overall, this repair results where as expected; there is a lot less slop in the shifter. With the car not running, I'm able to get into 1st-4th gear no problem, I feel binding when trying to go into 5th and reverse still feels like a void.

Adjusting the cables seems like the next logical step.
click

 

[citymunky]

Fun times.