The "I can't make up my mind" build.

[citymunky]

Not much progress in the last month.

-I figured out you can't ES front anti-sway bar bushings to work on a Whiteline 22mm anti-sway bar. Boring out the bushing didn't work, so I need to find some Whiteline bushings.
-Robbed 823/2000's pass side steering rack mount bracket since I couldn't find one.
-Swapped in the Stock suspension from 823/2000 (not torqued yet)
-Replace input & output seals on Transfer case. Cleaned the transfer case up a bit, and installed it.
-Routed wire harness on engine and tranny
-Soldered in quick connect injector clips
-Soldered in power steering ground pigtail
-Soldered in TB ground pigtail
-Replaced and soldered in A/C temp pigtail for T-Stat Housing.
-Reposition aftermarket circuit breaker box
-Removed sheared off CAS stud, and installed a new shorter one
-Installed Black-top CAS
-Routed hard A/C line, replace o-rings
-Sandblasted/cleaned/install Cruse Control box, and vac. (If it is broken or I don't the like it, I still have a non-cruse cable
-Sandblasted A/C fan bracket
-Sandblasted A/C drier mount
-Made and Routed Oil feed line for turbo, including an Earl's -4 AN inline filter.

 

[cheekychimp]

Quoting citymunky:
Not much progress in the last month.

-I figured out you can't ES front anti-sway bar bushings to work on a Whiteline 22mm anti-sway bar. Boring out the bushing didn't work, so I need to find some Whiteline bushings.



Yeah I figured that out a long time ago and frankly didn't have much better luck with the whiteline bushings. I remember one of their larger bars didn't actually even have specific bushings made for it, but I cannot remember which one. Anyway eventually I couldn't take it anymore and decided to just do it properly.



Your car looks to be coming along nicely by the way. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I'm in the process of doing quite a lot of similar stuff to my daily and I have to say a lot of the advice I got on here was true. I am sure my other car will be fun when it is done but it is a real eye opener as to just how quick and fun to drive these cars can be with largely OEM upgrades from newer or different Mitsubishi models.

 

[citymunky]

You have anymore info on those brackets? It also looks like something was welded on the side.

EDIT: I just found out the 22mm Whiteline bushings that they offer are for rear not the front. The has to be the reason why they didn't work for you.

When I removed the front sway bar it had yellow poly bushing, but they were beat up and I'm trash them. Looks like I'm going to have to find custom bushings like I did for my 27mm rear sway bar.

 

[citymunky]

Just ordered x2 M12x1.25x50mm Allen socket bolts for my O2 housing to downpipe flange. $20 shipped /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif, but it will make installing my downpipe easier.

Turning a Hex bolt 1/8 to 1/6 of a turn until tight sucks.

The Bolt

 

[cheekychimp]

Quoting citymunky:
You have anymore info on those brackets? It also looks like something was welded on the side.

EDIT: I just found out the 22mm Whiteline bushings that they offer are for rear not the front. The has to be the reason why they didn't work for you.

When I removed the front sway bar it had yellow poly bushing, but they were beat up and I'm trash them. Looks like I'm going to have to find custom bushings like I did for my 27mm rear sway bar.



The brackets were custom made locally. The welding you can see is on the sway bar itself and not the bracket. With stock or poly bushings the bar is held tight and any movement is taken up by the elasticity of the bushing itself. Here the bar rotates freely inside a hard 'bushing' inside the bracket. It isn't loose but at the same time sufficient force would cause some lateral movement. The 'stop' was welded on to the bar to prevent that and keep the bar central. It has one at each end.

I agree it seems highly likely that that is why I never managed to get my bushings to fit. These brackets have worked so well for me I recently had the same thing done for the 27 mm bar I am putting onto the rear of the daily and eventually I may do something similar at the front on that car as well.

 

[citymunky]

So the welded part is just a sway bar lateral locks.

 

[cheekychimp]

Yes. The ones you posted are prettier but I like the security of the welded ones. No way to work loose.

 

[citymunky]

So it's been a while since I touched the car. Yesterday I installed my new FP 255lph fuel pump, and I was routing my -8 Fuel hose. I need smaller adel clamps to hold my fuel hose tighter the -10s adel clamps I have are just too big.

I just placed a order for Whiteline 22mm Sway Bar bushing P/N: KSK066-22 form ETS. Damn crap cost me $40 after shipping. After calling Whiteline USA that's what they said I needed, so I hope I can get them to work, as I need to finish installing my front sway bar so I could install my front struts, front axles, downpipe and driveshaft.

 

[citymunky]

I got to work on the car this weekend, it was nice because it was in the 60's and not 30's.

I found some smaller adel clamps I had laying around that worked for the -8 stainless steel braided fuel hose.

-I routed the fuel hose on the pass side of the car with it crossing over to the driver's behind the diff. I did my best to not have the hose rub on any part of the car however it's contacting the forward part of the pass side trailing arm. I need to wrap it in anti-chaff tape and zip-tie the ends to the tape doesn't unwind.
-Installed Earl's -8 AN in-line fuel filter ( I need to find so -8 Quick Disconnect fittings so cleaning the filter wouldn't leave me with pool of fuel on my garage floor. QD's )
-Painted my Rear Diff housing
-Installed Rear Diff (3 Bolt VLSD {B1G})
-Installed driveshaft with solid 6061 aluminum bushings (Machined from a solid block of aluminum from Slit Motorsports). This was pain in the ass as one of my carrier bearing tabs were bend slightly. The driveshaft was rebuild with new carrier bearings and balanced at a local Fleet repair shop.
-Try to install my 27mm sway bar. However the bar is so big I can't bolt in the bracket because I can't start the bolts. I have petty much have to grind the bolt holes inward toward the middle.
-Order 5/8" ID spacers from Jegs for my upper adjustable control arms.

My rear end is also done /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[citymunky]

I got some work done yesterday while I was off /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The night before I had the late watch so I took my rear axles so I can recondition them. They were not as bad as my front axles, they just needed some cleaning, slight rust removal and new green paint.

Once I got home:
-I installed my rear VLSD axles.
-Installed my rear adjustable upper control arm using Jegs tapered spacers, tight fit but it works. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
-finish installing my rear sway bar using allen key head bolts (If anybody thinks it would be a good idea to have a custom 27mm rear bar made, please think again and just get Whiteline's 26mm. 27mm = /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif)
-Installed the stock rear stocks from 832/2000 (until Evo 8/9 coilovers replaces them)
-cleaned rear brake calipers
-installed the Pass side rear rotor, caliper and pads.
-I tried to install the drivers side caliper, but I can't screw down the piston to fit over my rear pads. I might have to rebuild that caliper as I only have a extra pass side caliper.

And if it was not noted somewhere else I had install new Moog rear sway bar links and bushing. However I just found some new Energy Suspension black polyurethane end link bushings on my shelf so I'm going to replace the Moog rubbers for these.

 

[citymunky]

After waiting 17 days I got these in yesterday.




Here they are installed and they do fit. Installation was not the easiest thing to do, but overall not as bad as everybody makes it out to be or maybe it's the aircraft mechanic skills. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif. My Whiteline 22mm anti-sway bar was up, bolted and tq'ed to spec in 10 minutes.




Next I started to install the front axles, and bolted up my 3000GT SL calipers.


Since I been spoiled with auto dimming rear view mirrors in every other car I owned, there is no way I'm going to stick with the Galant's stock mirror. SoI picked up a Gentex 125 Auto dimming mirror out of a Chrysler 300M to install in my GVR4. Wiring is very basic (12v, ground and reverse signal input). I might return for a Gentex 177 with temp and compass.

 

[citymunky]

This is the engine bay in its current state. I'm waiting until end of the build to paint the valve cover since it's tool holder most of the time.


Old school Charged Air Systems AFPR with Jegs gauge.


Fuse holder that everybody always leave danging, and 3 BAR GM MAP sensor mounted.


-4 AN Oil feed hose that I made fed from OFH. Inline Earl's filter. The 90 deg there to clear my Civic FAL fan.


My "new" power steering cooler, since I never had one.

 

[citymunky]

-Mounted radiator with FAL fan (including modded fan hardness)
-Installed front subframe to front support connectors
-Sent my Spearco intercooler to have new lower mounting tabs welded on. (I need a welder BAD)
-Returned my Gentex 125 mirror for a Gentex 177 mirror (compass/temp). However I didn't realize its compass version only. All other 177's I seen online all have temp readout, so I guess it's just my luck.

 

[citymunky]

Got it some Axis Ultimate front brake pads for my Brembo rotors.

 

[citymunky]

Just got done breeding my brakes with ATE super blue DOT4. It's not normal seeing blue fluid in the master cylinder res.

 

[BpuVR4]

Quoting citymunky:
I removed the dash yesterday, so I can finish removing all trances of the ABS wiring.

Pulling wires in the under the dash.








these pics make me want to reach for the ibuprofen or booze and close my eyes.

 

[citymunky]

^LOL. It was not as bad as you think.

I just test fitted these /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif, and there is no way of fitting 3000GT VR4 calipers behind them /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif.

 

[citymunky]

Damn coolant leaks. 1st it was the small water hose from the thermostat housing to turbo water inlet pipe, I had a river of coolant under my car last week because the hose leaked. I replaced the new hose with a smaller ID hose. Problem fixed. Added distilled water to the radiator, and water was forming droplets at the thermostat housing to water neck mating surface, good thing the gasket was installed

. Drain the radiator a little, removed the water neck and gasket, Applied RTV to both sides of the gasket, re-installed/torqued water and I let it dry for 24 hours. Just added more water and it still leaks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif. It's not as bad as yesterday but still, I'm getting pissed. I need a fix, and I'm not looking to drop $80+ on a new t-stat housing and water neck just yet.

 

[1badgvr4]

I don't use a gasket there. Just clean it really good and spread a nice layer of toyota black rtv on both sides. Bolt it up but dont snug it up, then go eat a sandwich or something. When you get back tighten it down and you should be good to go.

 

[citymunky]

I think the mating surface is warped. I used Nissan's orange engine RTV I have left over from my VQ build.