Another question, Could I use some New Copper crush washers meant for the Turbo? They are tiny bit to small but I could make them that little bit bigger with the dremel. Or do they need to be like the rubber insert kind?
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TEL oil cooler mount
- Thread starter iceman69510
- Start date
ken inn
Well-known member
Quote:
I was looking at the fittings last night the surface is MUCH smaller than the stock banjo bolts. They don't take up near the sealing surface that the bolts did, which was all of it. Did you use the stock washers with the exact fittings listed above? I just want to make sure they will work, because it looks almost like the fittings would only contact the rubber part of the stock washer in which case it would probably smash it and leak.
if you are talking about the metric to an adapters that screw into the oil filter housing, the ones i had were designed to us an o ring, and they wouldnt seal worth a crap. i finally jb welded the bitches in, no more problem. the factory washer inner part is a viton like material, the outer is either aluminum or copper. they will not work, because the fittings i had, right before the part you grab with the wrench, it went way down in size; the factory washers are designed for larger. really stoopid design(the metric/an, that is).
I was looking at the fittings last night the surface is MUCH smaller than the stock banjo bolts. They don't take up near the sealing surface that the bolts did, which was all of it. Did you use the stock washers with the exact fittings listed above? I just want to make sure they will work, because it looks almost like the fittings would only contact the rubber part of the stock washer in which case it would probably smash it and leak.
if you are talking about the metric to an adapters that screw into the oil filter housing, the ones i had were designed to us an o ring, and they wouldnt seal worth a crap. i finally jb welded the bitches in, no more problem. the factory washer inner part is a viton like material, the outer is either aluminum or copper. they will not work, because the fittings i had, right before the part you grab with the wrench, it went way down in size; the factory washers are designed for larger. really stoopid design(the metric/an, that is).
atc250r
Staff member
I used these with the stock washers with no leaks:
9919DFJERL #6AN to 16MM x 1.5
I've got plenty of other oil leaks under there but nothing from those. You can get the same thing in a #8 AN end if that's what you prefer.
John
9919DFJERL #6AN to 16MM x 1.5
I've got plenty of other oil leaks under there but nothing from those. You can get the same thing in a #8 AN end if that's what you prefer.
John
Thats what I have John but the -8 version. If you have no leaks, thats cool. I just don't see how the things seal with so little surface contact if using the factory washers. My freind in town just coated them with Red loctie and has no leaks, weird. I just want to hear all scenarios before I make my choice.
ken inn
Well-known member
look at the factory banjo bolts. when the threads stop, and it is smooth to the hex head, it is the same diameter. the metric/an fittings i got, where the threads stopped, it got smaller. so the factory washers(expensive suckers, too. about 4 bucks each) could not center. also, you MUST be aware that it aint gonna leak till the thermostat opens. i think about 180 deg, then, it if aint sealed, WATCH OUT. since i had already made the switch to a bigger cooler and aeroquip lines, the factory banjo bolts were never going on there again. jb weld, end of story.
Thats what I was trying to get across, there is hardly any surface for the stock washer to hit.
I'll take your advice and JB weld the suckers in there. I hate oil leaks and this will assure no leaks. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Plus I won't even need to remove them anyway.
I'll take your advice and JB weld the suckers in there. I hate oil leaks and this will assure no leaks. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Plus I won't even need to remove them anyway.
CP
Well-known member
Corey,
I finally ended up using grey RTV for my fittings, even though I finally figured out that my holes had been tapped to 3/8 NTP. I'm not sure how solid regular JB Weld cures, but I had been using JB Quick and was able to turn the fittings out 3 different times using that stuff.
I finally ended up using grey RTV for my fittings, even though I finally figured out that my holes had been tapped to 3/8 NTP. I'm not sure how solid regular JB Weld cures, but I had been using JB Quick and was able to turn the fittings out 3 different times using that stuff.
CP
Well-known member
Sort of. My problem is with the housing itself, or at least I think it is. So I'm starting over and ordering a new filter housing and gasket. I think some of the scratches on the mating surfaces (housing to filter) is where my leak may be coming from. I've checked everything else. There goes another $100 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
I had to take my used housing to a wire wheel on my bench grinder to get the 15 year old gasket off. It left the surface smooth but I knew there had to be high/low spots from the wheel. So I layered on some RTV and then stuck the OEM Gasket on it. It's not leaked a drop.
I ended up just using some blue Loctite on the fittings along with a Nitrile Oring which got literally smashed as thin as a piece of paper when I tightened the fittings. It hasn't leaked a drop though.
I ended up just using some blue Loctite on the fittings along with a Nitrile Oring which got literally smashed as thin as a piece of paper when I tightened the fittings. It hasn't leaked a drop though.
Last edited by a moderator:
CP
Well-known member
I too tried to JB Weld the mating surface between the housing and oil filter smooth, but it obviously didn't work (if that's even my leak). So I'm getting a new one from JNZ.
Is there info anywhere as to the thread pitch of all the holes in the housing? I'm currently using a spare sensor (the round one with one male connection) to plug one of the holes that poured oil when we initially installed the housing...oops. I'd like to get an allen plug instead.
Is there info anywhere as to the thread pitch of all the holes in the housing? I'm currently using a spare sensor (the round one with one male connection) to plug one of the holes that poured oil when we initially installed the housing...oops. I'd like to get an allen plug instead.
powerplay
Well-known member
It is 1/8-28 BSP thread. It will probably be a little difficult to find an Allen to fit that correctly.
Teh 1/8 size BSP can be tapped to 1/8-27 NPT effectively, but the larger sized do not really cooperate as well.
Try McMaster Carr for BSP stuff, or take a plug from your old one and use it for the new.
Try McMaster Carr for BSP stuff, or take a plug from your old one and use it for the new.
atc250r
Staff member
I guess I got lucky. I used the metric to -6 adapters from Earl's along with the stock washers (I even re-used the old original ones) and they've been holding up fine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
John
John
IncorpoRatedX
Well-known member
Just thought i would add to this thread. I have a -10AN oil cooler, -10AN lines and i just ordered a pair of 16x1.5mm to -10AN adapters for my filter housing. The best prices i could find were from AN PLUMBING.com
Here is their main index.
http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php
