Swapped in HKS cams, now no compression / Cooling issue [BOTH RESOLVED]

[prove_it]

Quoting turbowop:
Even with my 2g mani and OE heatshield and hood vents, I get heatsoak when stopped in traffic. I don't think there is much you can do to combat that without some airflow moving through the engine bay. I was seeing IAT's around 119F last time I was in stop/go traffic. As soon as the car starts moving, it drops to ambient.

I still have the stock pusher fan on my car. But I left its wiring alone, so it only comes on with AC or if the temps get waaaaay too hot, which has yet to happen. I might change my ECMlink fan control wire to trip both fan relays for more efficient cooling.



I always wondered about putting a bilge pump from a boat to help remove hot air from an engine bay.

 

[prove_it]

A little late, but revelant. Found this stuff today. Seems like it could be used in key areas to help reduce heat. Its really cheap too. Got some on hand and took a torch to it and it took the heat really well.

cool it

 

[GSTwithPSI]

It only withstands direct temperatures up to 300*F. I feel like that's not really high enough to be useful anywhere under the hood. Where were you thinking this could be used?

 

[prove_it]

Intercooler piping, etc. Direct heat over 300 degrees is pretty much the exhaust stuff only. That company also makes heat wrap and other products that costs way less than the "brand" name stuff.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I just wanted to post an update. I've been driving the car quite a bit in the nice weather, and my coolant temps have been great. Now that the fall weather has started to set in, ambient temperature is averaging around 75°. At cruise on the highway, I'll see 186° to 190°. At idle and after sitting, the car never gets anywhere over 206°. In the peak of summer, the car would average 5° hotter than it does now in the cooler weather.

For you guys with ECMlink, you know you can configure the stock boost gauge to read coolant temperature. After previously having so many issues with my car running hot, I've watched that gauge to the point where I see it in my sleep. Currently, I have it on the low coolant setting. I wanted to post up the switch points for each LED. I know everyone with link can easily figure this out for themselves, but I figured it would be helpful none the less:

Basically, I've found as a good rule of thumb, as long as the car never pegs gauge on the low coolant setting, the car is cooling as it should be. I'm running a 180° T-stat, so results may vary. I'd venture to say decent operating range for any 4G63 is from 180° to 215°. Anything hotter than that, and it may be a sign you have some cooling issues.

 

[transparentdsm]

sweeeet thanks, im going to set my stock boost gauge to this now as i had been also having cooling issues a while back and i just recently think i resolved it and have been driving around with link in the car all the time watching the temp and it will be nice to not need the laptop. thank you!!!

 

[prove_it]

My temp gauge stopped working(cluster failed) so I switched to the coolant lo setting too. I think it's the best and most useful of the link settings.