atc250r
Staff member
Profile for 2fasdsm
Last On 02/17/08 07:50 PM
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John
Last On 02/17/08 07:50 PM
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
John
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
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Call me 610-295-4204. Sorry I don't visit here that often, special pricing only for you guys being I made you wait so long. I promise to return the billion pm's I have in my box by Sunday evening.-Jason
I think you would sell allot of these on this board.
Group buy maybe?
Im still interested in a 1G DSM K member but, I would like to know more about them like.
1) does it have swaybar provisions?
2) will there be a need to buy bushings of some sort?
3) how much does it weigh?
and when are going to finally see this thing? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Group buy maybe?
Im still interested in a 1G DSM K member but, I would like to know more about them like.
1) does it have swaybar provisions?
2) will there be a need to buy bushings of some sort?
3) how much does it weigh?
and when are going to finally see this thing? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
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Flip4G63
Well-known member
^^ same questions.
will every stock option bolt to this?
what needs to be removed?
what needs to be modded..
will every stock option bolt to this?
what needs to be removed?
what needs to be modded..
I call Shananagens!!!
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cf group buy!
Quoting SGTdave:
I call Shananagens!!!
Ha ha, that is my favorite phrase!! Anyway, I recently received a pretty large order for these things.
To answer your questions, it is better to contact me and discuss your needs.
Control arms for the front need nothing and come complete with bushings, new ball joint(factory style so replaceable) and high quality rod end.
The rears use different hardware, included of course.
Sway bar mounts are available for front.
There are 2 different arms for the front and rear lowers. The fronts are avaiable in a double adjustable and single(to obtain caster, use a Whiteline bushing). I have a drag only arm and a street/road race version. The rear lower has 2 different designs, one for no sway bar use and one factory style adjustable with mount for sway bar links. Again, all hardware, bushings, spacers,etc. are included.
Also I have the camber arms for the rear available, adjustable with all new hardware, less than the Ingalls since they are pretty simple to build!
I will frequent the board more. I dug up a pic of my drag arm for a customer so you can get an idea. The other arm was one of my r&d pieces tested and beat to hell.(street version). Pm me or give me a call to discuss your needs!-Jason
I call Shananagens!!!
Ha ha, that is my favorite phrase!! Anyway, I recently received a pretty large order for these things.
To answer your questions, it is better to contact me and discuss your needs.
Control arms for the front need nothing and come complete with bushings, new ball joint(factory style so replaceable) and high quality rod end.
The rears use different hardware, included of course.
Sway bar mounts are available for front.
There are 2 different arms for the front and rear lowers. The fronts are avaiable in a double adjustable and single(to obtain caster, use a Whiteline bushing). I have a drag only arm and a street/road race version. The rear lower has 2 different designs, one for no sway bar use and one factory style adjustable with mount for sway bar links. Again, all hardware, bushings, spacers,etc. are included.
Also I have the camber arms for the rear available, adjustable with all new hardware, less than the Ingalls since they are pretty simple to build!
I will frequent the board more. I dug up a pic of my drag arm for a customer so you can get an idea. The other arm was one of my r&d pieces tested and beat to hell.(street version). Pm me or give me a call to discuss your needs!-Jason
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I will take some much better quality pics tomorrow. This particular set is for a drag application with no sway bar provisions. Brackets are avaiable for the front and the rear lower is a different design.
Sick!
skivittlerjimb
Well-known member
Any chance you can weigh the trick tubular arms vs. stock arms and post the numbers?
Many thanks,
-Jim B.
280/1000
Many thanks,
-Jim B.
280/1000
The kit shown above packaged, boxed and on its way is 24 lbs. minus the packaging it is 22.8 lbs. If I remember correctly the stock arms together are close to 40 lbs.
The rear lower arm set is 2 lbs heavier if using a sway bar. Hope this helps answer your question!
The rear lower arm set is 2 lbs heavier if using a sway bar. Hope this helps answer your question!
skivittlerjimb
Well-known member
It does, thanks! So total weight savings about 15 lbs. of unsprung weight on the rear suspension arms. That's like having lost the mass of an entire wheel (albeit a light wheel). That's definitely significant. If they fit well and are as strong as the stockers... it's a great addition to the possible upgrades for these cars.
-Jim B.
280/1000
-Jim B.
280/1000
belize1334
Well-known member
These are my thoughts.
It seems to me that increasing negative camber via the front inner mount-point of the control arm will necessarily decrease caster. To keep relatively stock caster you'd need WL caster bushings and I don't see any way you could increase caster beyond stock while using the control arm for camber unless you also had a caster/camber plate. Without using your updated K-member, do you see any way of building caster adjustability into the control arm to offset this issue?
Also, significant increases in camber via the control arm will move the tire out from it's natural position which is good for stability but bad if you have fender clearence issues.
It seems to me that increasing negative camber via the front inner mount-point of the control arm will necessarily decrease caster. To keep relatively stock caster you'd need WL caster bushings and I don't see any way you could increase caster beyond stock while using the control arm for camber unless you also had a caster/camber plate. Without using your updated K-member, do you see any way of building caster adjustability into the control arm to offset this issue?
Also, significant increases in camber via the control arm will move the tire out from it's natural position which is good for stability but bad if you have fender clearence issues.
Larry Parker
Well-known member
Changing camber via the inner rod-end on the control arm will change your caster and also put you into a position where you will not be able to get your wheels to 0 toe setting.. If you push that rod-end out you will not have the room to adjust on your steering racks ends....Camber should only be changed at the strut top in this application...
If you want a wider stance get some wheel spares or wheels with an offset to do so...
Also my fabbed arms weight is the same as my stockers...
LP
If you want a wider stance get some wheel spares or wheels with an offset to do so...
Also my fabbed arms weight is the same as my stockers...
LP
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Correct Larry. Above is not my caster adjustable arm unless a Wl is used.
However, my adjustable arm utilizes a completely different bushing for the rear. I use a delrin bushing and custom bracket which REPLACES the stock type bushing and bracket. It uses a smaller bushing and slotted plate to achieve your caster adjustment without changing the geometry of the suspension.
So the simple way to explain this is to remove your old control arm, rear bushing AND bracket/bolts and discard. Install your new control arms and align- simple process and very easy!-Jason
However, my adjustable arm utilizes a completely different bushing for the rear. I use a delrin bushing and custom bracket which REPLACES the stock type bushing and bracket. It uses a smaller bushing and slotted plate to achieve your caster adjustment without changing the geometry of the suspension.
So the simple way to explain this is to remove your old control arm, rear bushing AND bracket/bolts and discard. Install your new control arms and align- simple process and very easy!-Jason
Quoting belize1334:
These are my thoughts.
It seems to me that increasing negative camber via the front inner mount-point of the control arm will necessarily decrease caster. To keep relatively stock caster you'd need WL caster bushings and I don't see any way you could increase caster beyond stock while using the control arm for camber unless you also had a caster/camber plate. Without using your updated K-member, do you see any way of building caster adjustability into the control arm to offset this issue?
Also, significant increases in camber via the control arm will move the tire out from it's natural position which is good for stability but bad if you have fender clearence issues.
I answered your question in my previous post. It took quite some time to figure out proper design to obtain increased caster adjustment without the use of plates or a white line.
To help all better understand, the WL bushing hole is offset. When installed on the arm and bolted to the subframe, the control arm rear is moved out to increase caster. If the bushing were to be installed the opposite direction, the rear of the arm would be moved in, decreasing caster.
I eliminated it with a bracket that when the rear bolts are loosened, slide the rear of the arm to the desired alignment specification you wish to obtain. Mark it, set your front end to correct misalignment and camber. When they are shipped, they are marked and set very close to stock specs. Of course every car is different. I hope you guys are understanding me, let me know if I lost ya!-Jason
These are my thoughts.
It seems to me that increasing negative camber via the front inner mount-point of the control arm will necessarily decrease caster. To keep relatively stock caster you'd need WL caster bushings and I don't see any way you could increase caster beyond stock while using the control arm for camber unless you also had a caster/camber plate. Without using your updated K-member, do you see any way of building caster adjustability into the control arm to offset this issue?
Also, significant increases in camber via the control arm will move the tire out from it's natural position which is good for stability but bad if you have fender clearence issues.
I answered your question in my previous post. It took quite some time to figure out proper design to obtain increased caster adjustment without the use of plates or a white line.
To help all better understand, the WL bushing hole is offset. When installed on the arm and bolted to the subframe, the control arm rear is moved out to increase caster. If the bushing were to be installed the opposite direction, the rear of the arm would be moved in, decreasing caster.
I eliminated it with a bracket that when the rear bolts are loosened, slide the rear of the arm to the desired alignment specification you wish to obtain. Mark it, set your front end to correct misalignment and camber. When they are shipped, they are marked and set very close to stock specs. Of course every car is different. I hope you guys are understanding me, let me know if I lost ya!-Jason
belize1334
Well-known member
^^ And this is for the non-K-member design?
Yes this is for a STOCK K MEMBER^^^I did this because I highly doubt I am going to sell many k members just to get some caster adjustment. Plates are much easier to install!
belize1334
Well-known member
Well I'm excited to see pics of one of these on the car and hear what kind of alignment numbers you can get out of them.
Installed on a vehicle. Is the spec "out of range" acceptable for you? I would call it more adjustment than you will ever need with a caster adjustable arm. Increased front stance is also possible with a strut bolt kit. Let me know guys, I am about 2 weeks behind so if interested, from order date it will be at least 2 weeks, possibly 3.
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