I assume the rear control and trailing arms will be like the AFCO arm set-up. I've been waiting to put a set of these together. For the rod ends I have heard that these do not hold up to daily driving and need constant inspection/lubrication. I am very interested in some pics and specs though.
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Yes the arms can be used w/o k member, there are two arms, one that uses the bushing(non k member) and the other uses rod ends on both sides.
Quote:
I assume the rear control and trailing arms will be like the AFCO arm set-up. I've been waiting to put a set of these together. For the rod ends I have heard that these do not hold up to daily driving and need constant inspection/lubrication. I am very interested in some pics and specs though.
NO please do not compare my product to a piece of threaded tube and cheap rod ends. I use a laser cut piece of 4130, then tube ends are welded in to provide a much stronger piece instead of a threaded tube. The rod ends are very good pieces and are far better than what you may think. The same ends are used on 1100 hp mustangs and have never shown a problem. The set I have running around Pa on a 2g have not been touched for 6 months. I do/will however checking the jam nuts every 1k miles to be sure. You must also consider there is nothing made for performance that lasts forever.
I assume the rear control and trailing arms will be like the AFCO arm set-up. I've been waiting to put a set of these together. For the rod ends I have heard that these do not hold up to daily driving and need constant inspection/lubrication. I am very interested in some pics and specs though.
NO please do not compare my product to a piece of threaded tube and cheap rod ends. I use a laser cut piece of 4130, then tube ends are welded in to provide a much stronger piece instead of a threaded tube. The rod ends are very good pieces and are far better than what you may think. The same ends are used on 1100 hp mustangs and have never shown a problem. The set I have running around Pa on a 2g have not been touched for 6 months. I do/will however checking the jam nuts every 1k miles to be sure. You must also consider there is nothing made for performance that lasts forever.
^^^^^by the way I am not trying to sound like an arse, just explaining the set up. I will be getting together with Hans(Ground Zero Performance) in a week or two. I will provide him with a set to inspect, install and use if he wishes. He can post pics and tell you guys what he thinks of them, then, we go from there...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
turboaddict
Well-known member
I am in on the 2g stuff
No problem, that was the explanation I was hoping for. Can't wait to buy a set or two.
Two sets? Only one per car... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
I do my rally practice on logging roads and things tend to break.
Seriously.. pob.
Pics or Ban +1
Quote:
Are these them?
ABSOLUTELY NOT MINE, Again, threaded tubing and cheap rod ends are not my thing, looks good for what they are doing but not for street use. My k member is very similar. As for pics or ban....what does the title say? SOON TO COME...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Are these them?
ABSOLUTELY NOT MINE, Again, threaded tubing and cheap rod ends are not my thing, looks good for what they are doing but not for street use. My k member is very similar. As for pics or ban....what does the title say? SOON TO COME...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I still need some clarification...
The non-K-member control arms.
They come with bushings. Are these poly bushings like Whiteline, Noltec, etc?
With the non-K-member control arms, do you get caster adjustment? I know the Whiteline caster bushings allow for +/- 1 deg of adjustment.
Rob
The non-K-member control arms.
They come with bushings. Are these poly bushings like Whiteline, Noltec, etc?
With the non-K-member control arms, do you get caster adjustment? I know the Whiteline caster bushings allow for +/- 1 deg of adjustment.
Rob
Yes, the non k member arms use a bushing. K meber and arms relocate the arms attachment points as the arm is a "u" shape, similar to a mustang type arm. The standard arm looks like a factory style. pics to come guys........... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif I havent had much time the past few days to get things organized with this. I have no lie 76 emails about these things, not including you guys. A blabber mouth I did his 2g had to start yapping and all hell has broken loose. It appears Im not the only person who was working on this and we had to set some things straight with these ass clowns /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
update?
Larry Parker
Well-known member
My 4130 front control arms weight no less than my stock arms... Also the front control arm in that pic about is complete garbage...
The rear sub frame is nice, but I can tell you for sure its not mucu lighter than the stock unit...
LP
The rear sub frame is nice, but I can tell you for sure its not mucu lighter than the stock unit...
LP
Barnes
Well-known member
I wonder if most of the tubular stuff that people make isn't that much lighter because it is horribly over engineered because people don't actually perform any analysis on what they build.
Larry: I'm guessing your stuff isn't much lighter because it can probably withstand way more abuse than the stock arm. Which is of course what you want with your rally car.
Larry: I'm guessing your stuff isn't much lighter because it can probably withstand way more abuse than the stock arm. Which is of course what you want with your rally car.
