raptorWagon
Well-known member
Evo 3 16Gs aren't cheap anymore, a used one in good shape could hold it's value at $4-500, now that a new one will cost you over $1K.
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Shooting for 300hp
- Thread starter asmo
- Start date
matt92vr4
Well-known member
I've used many of the knock off E316G's with no problem. Obviously it is a risk, but I'm probably gonna go that route when I get tired of the s16g.
James
Well-known member
I know the price of a new 16g is 1k+ but I can't imagine that people are actually buying them considering what else you can get in that price range
raptorWagon
Well-known member
Forced Performance doesn't sell them anymore. They used to be the "best bang for the buck turbo", but then the tsunami and quake happened.
MX4
Well-known member
Dont know if you would be interested but there is a brand new Evo 3 16G locally for sale for $650. Up here in Vancouver.
I just bought the s16g new two months ago, so I don't plan on changing it out just yet.
Thanks for all the tips and info guys it sounds like I should be close to about 250-275 horse.
I like the quick spool,and dont really want/need more topend yet, I rarely rev it past 4k.
but I think knock is holding me back, Im gonna try some octane booster and see if thats the cause of knock.
plus it seems lately to be missing a little so Im gonna throw new plugs in it tommarrow,
I have the ngk bpres in it, changed about 3-4k ago, how often do you guys change them out.
Thanks for all the tips and info guys it sounds like I should be close to about 250-275 horse.
I like the quick spool,and dont really want/need more topend yet, I rarely rev it past 4k.
but I think knock is holding me back, Im gonna try some octane booster and see if thats the cause of knock.
plus it seems lately to be missing a little so Im gonna throw new plugs in it tommarrow,
I have the ngk bpres in it, changed about 3-4k ago, how often do you guys change them out.
Jason G.
Well-known member
Doubt the octane booster will help. what heat range are the plugs? 6,7,8?
raptorWagon
Well-known member
Agreed, those octane boosters won't do squat for you, and as Jason said which plugs are they BPR6ES, BPR7ES,BPR8ES? 6s are stock and should be fine with your mods. Don't just replace your plugs, inspect them and post some pictures up, so we can better help you out. Actually inspecting the plugs can help diagnosing the problem.
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, plug wires, etc?
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, plug wires, etc?
The plugs and wires were done with the engine rebuild, 1yr but only 3-4k miles.
It had the v-power plugs BPR6EY in it.
I put the BPR6ES in today, the ones that came out had light brown on the tips, that means good burn right.
Good call on the fuel filter I have'nt changed it out ever, Im going to the parts store now.
It had the v-power plugs BPR6EY in it.
I put the BPR6ES in today, the ones that came out had light brown on the tips, that means good burn right.
Good call on the fuel filter I have'nt changed it out ever, Im going to the parts store now.
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5OF2k
Well-known member
What is your timing at, out of curiousity. By chance have some logs you can post? Need to see whats causing the knock/etc. chances are youre getting whats known as phantom knock as well. With your mods and level of boost, you shouldnt be seeing detremental knock, unless something is wayyyy out f whack in the tune(which does happen from time to time with the keydiver programs).
Doublecheck your logs, im willing to bet you're seeing knock where the timing advance increases, and id also be willing to bet its more pre-ignition than knock. Post them up if you get a chance!
-Jake
Doublecheck your logs, im willing to bet you're seeing knock where the timing advance increases, and id also be willing to bet its more pre-ignition than knock. Post them up if you get a chance!
-Jake
belize1334
Well-known member
I understand your perspective on this but I think that you're underestimating this little turbo. Mine held 20psi to redline. Now I'm back to a 14b for autocross and even it will hold 18psi to redline. With a nice E3 7cm housing, the s16g is a very capable turbo for a street car. I agree, it won't make quite as much power. But time spent spooling is time spent being slow. And efficiency at lower boost is still important when you consider how it affects spool, throttle response, boost threshold, and the grandma-setting on your boost controller. My dyno run was taken with very conservative boost settings and next to no tuning. click
Quoting 5OF2k:
I dunno Belize...that little 16g would be working a LOT harder to hit his 300whp goal than a B16g/E16g, and be a touch out of its efficiency range, which means more heat, and therefore less consistent power....and let's be real. The s16g being more efficient below 15psi is entirely irrelevent, being as he wont be anywhere near that boost level. also, having a peaky, quick spooling turbo with next to no top end is extremely disappointing. Sure you're hitting 25lbs by 3500rpm, but what good does that do you when you're only making 12psi at redline....? Enjoy your s16g's all you want, but when you're getting pulled on because your call falls on it's face above 4500rpm by a E16g car, you'll see what I mean. Plus, come accross an E16g, and you've got at least an easy 60-75 more HP to play with when (yes, I said WHEN) you get bored of 300hp.
The main reason most of us suggested upgrading the turbo, was because it's ALWAYS easier to dial a setup down than it is to stretch a setups' capabilities. It's also safer for the engine, more reliable, and more efficient which therefore makes it more enjoyable, IMHO.
Going with a bigger turbo will not only alow you to hit your goals more easily, but also give you a bit of room to grow. It's the same eal if you're running larger injectors than you "need", a larger intercooler than you "need, and so-on. Then, when you get bored with your 300whp (Yes, WHEN again), you'll have some room to play with, and hopefully it'll be just another matter of a larger turbo and fuel/etc. Spend the $$ out of the gate on things you figure you'll want to do down the road, or have in the back of your mind, and it'll make it that much easier to acheive down the road. Just sayin'.
-Jake
Quoting 5OF2k:
I dunno Belize...that little 16g would be working a LOT harder to hit his 300whp goal than a B16g/E16g, and be a touch out of its efficiency range, which means more heat, and therefore less consistent power....and let's be real. The s16g being more efficient below 15psi is entirely irrelevent, being as he wont be anywhere near that boost level. also, having a peaky, quick spooling turbo with next to no top end is extremely disappointing. Sure you're hitting 25lbs by 3500rpm, but what good does that do you when you're only making 12psi at redline....? Enjoy your s16g's all you want, but when you're getting pulled on because your call falls on it's face above 4500rpm by a E16g car, you'll see what I mean. Plus, come accross an E16g, and you've got at least an easy 60-75 more HP to play with when (yes, I said WHEN) you get bored of 300hp.
The main reason most of us suggested upgrading the turbo, was because it's ALWAYS easier to dial a setup down than it is to stretch a setups' capabilities. It's also safer for the engine, more reliable, and more efficient which therefore makes it more enjoyable, IMHO.
Going with a bigger turbo will not only alow you to hit your goals more easily, but also give you a bit of room to grow. It's the same eal if you're running larger injectors than you "need", a larger intercooler than you "need, and so-on. Then, when you get bored with your 300whp (Yes, WHEN again), you'll have some room to play with, and hopefully it'll be just another matter of a larger turbo and fuel/etc. Spend the $$ out of the gate on things you figure you'll want to do down the road, or have in the back of your mind, and it'll make it that much easier to acheive down the road. Just sayin'.
-Jake
matt92vr4
Well-known member
Wow I'm impressed with the cyclone intake. What were your other mods?
Also, this dyno chart compares the cyclone, and the non-functional cyclone. Are there any dyno graphs of a functioning cyclone compared to a non-cyclone? I'm considering buying one of these with my Christmas money.
Thanks,
Matt
Also, this dyno chart compares the cyclone, and the non-functional cyclone. Are there any dyno graphs of a functioning cyclone compared to a non-cyclone? I'm considering buying one of these with my Christmas money.
Thanks,
Matt
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Yesterday I put in a factory fuel filter, it was very clogged and dirty, car idles alot better and the 1-2 gear pulls i get almost no knock,
but just above 3500 rpm in 3-4-5 gear all still have knock, when my friend was over helping me he was pointing out that it is misfiring randomly.
figured it was the shitty autozone plug wires, yes I know they suck, but at the time I had just spent 2k on engine rebuild.
with New wires its still misfiring, knocking up top. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I also dont know how to post up logs, can I download them to my comp from the palm pliot?, or do I load the mmc program to the laptop and log with it?
sorry Im a noob at this stuff.
thanks for all the help.
but just above 3500 rpm in 3-4-5 gear all still have knock, when my friend was over helping me he was pointing out that it is misfiring randomly.
figured it was the shitty autozone plug wires, yes I know they suck, but at the time I had just spent 2k on engine rebuild.
with New wires its still misfiring, knocking up top. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I also dont know how to post up logs, can I download them to my comp from the palm pliot?, or do I load the mmc program to the laptop and log with it?
sorry Im a noob at this stuff.
thanks for all the help.
raptorWagon
Well-known member
Is your timing off? Or maybe the coilpack is going?
matt92vr4
Well-known member
You need to determine if it's real. Throw some 110 in there and see if it goes away. Until then you are blind. If for some reason you can find any 110, you can also try to roll your timing way back to see if the knock goes away.
raptorWagon
Well-known member
Good to hear it! easy enough fix!
Sounds like you got a great starting set up if your not going for 400hp you should be good with just installing an APEX SAFC its cheaper than a complete new engine management and will take care of your knocking when tuned correctly Im pulling 15psi on similar set up but can take up to 20psi without knocking and if you run at that you should be at your goal
The timing was holding me back big time, it runs amazing now on just 12psi with a little spikeing to 15.
I will probally turn up the boost a little and datalog for a bit and see what the chip can safely run.
Then I want to get a wideband and safc at the first of the year,and go from there, I think it should be close to 300 then.
Its ironic that my fuel filter was so clogged, Im always preaching to my friends to change them out every year or when the're complaining about how crappy there car is running. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
again thanks for all the help
I will probally turn up the boost a little and datalog for a bit and see what the chip can safely run.
Then I want to get a wideband and safc at the first of the year,and go from there, I think it should be close to 300 then.
Its ironic that my fuel filter was so clogged, Im always preaching to my friends to change them out every year or when the're complaining about how crappy there car is running. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
again thanks for all the help
matt92vr4
Well-known member
awesome! good job
