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Running wires for stereo install
- Thread starter spoulson
- Start date
Thanks Harry. Yes, I need a fuse ASAP... when fumbling w/the ground wire, I accidently brushed the hot wire... holy crap. Sooo, what strength fuse would you recommmend? What about a circuit breaker instead? And why the 18" from the battery?
The current draw of your system will determine the fuse size. If you are powering a single amplifier a 30 amp fuse or break should be plenty. Look at the fuse on the power supply (of the amp) and just make sure is is at least that big.
18" or closer to the battery is a car audio standard. The closer the better.
18" or closer to the battery is a car audio standard. The closer the better.
Thanks, but I'm not running an amp. Not really into car audio. I thought you were referring to a fuse somewhere between the battery (trunk) and the positive connections in the engine bay. What sort of fuse would one use in that scenario? Maybe 95-100 amp, that area, as our cars have 90 amp alternators?
Hertz
Staff member
For the battery relocation, you really should find a circuit breaker, mount it less than 18" from the battery. You really don't want a short/fire anywhere outside of your engine bay.
quote:Originally posted by turbowop:
Pull off the passenger front tire and the plastic inner fender lining that goes up over the tire. Behind it on the firewall is a huge plug that you can poke a crapload of wires through. It comes out right behind the glovebox on the inside of the car. In the fenderwell you can ty-wrap the power wire right to the abs sensor wire that goes through there and into the engine bay. It comes out right behind the battery. When its all done this way it looks very clean. THANK YOU search feature, and turbowop... I'm reviving this thread to say I can also vouch for this method, I just spent my lunch hour pulling the wheel off and splashguard off, and running my 4gauge from the battery to the trunk.
Pull off the passenger front tire and the plastic inner fender lining that goes up over the tire. Behind it on the firewall is a huge plug that you can poke a crapload of wires through. It comes out right behind the glovebox on the inside of the car. In the fenderwell you can ty-wrap the power wire right to the abs sensor wire that goes through there and into the engine bay. It comes out right behind the battery. When its all done this way it looks very clean. THANK YOU search feature, and turbowop... I'm reviving this thread to say I can also vouch for this method, I just spent my lunch hour pulling the wheel off and splashguard off, and running my 4gauge from the battery to the trunk.
Followed that exact same advice when I did my cable and it worked excellent. That was the easiest part of running the cable. The seat mount bracket was much harder to negotiate around.
I just mounted an electronic boost gauge, and went thru the DRIVERS fenderwell with the grommet for the hood latch cable. I just drilled a hole right next to it with the old dewalt, snapped a grommet in, and viola, right next to the fuse box. I was fishing around on the passenger side, and was trying to get a fish tape thru the plugged hole in the frame rail that's right under the CAS (but on the body, you guys know where I am talking about) I'm trying to run 2/0 welders cable back to the trunk. Saw the grommet with all the engine wires, but honestly that's a pretty damned big wire bundle. I was trying to find a way to run from the inner frame rail thru the body to the rocker panel, then fishing the wire down the rocker panel on the pass side, coming back up into the interior right were the pass rear dogleg molding is, and from there into the trunk. However, I can't get the fishtape thru from the engine compartment all the way under the frame rail to hop across to the rocker panel. Any ideas?
