The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.

Robbies 1137/2000 build

Mdlimy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
111
Location
Gresham, oregon
So this is wrong?

49178-01(40)0: 14B
49178-01(41)0: Big 16G
49178-01(42)0: Big 16G
49178-01(45)0: Evo I Big 16G
49178-01(46)0: Evo II Big 16G
49178-01(47)0: EVO III 16G
 

Mdlimy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
111
Location
Gresham, oregon
Now that I actually think about it, that does not look like a g series wheel, so it must be a 14b. I hate misleading partnumber posts. Oh well, I don't need a 16g right now, when I'm ready I'll skip that middle ground and go for a real turbo.
 

tektic

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
As you probably know if the cover is for a 16g and the impeller is a 14b then it probably won't build very much boost at all. More things to take apart. Yay!
 
Last edited:

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Quoting Mdlimy:
So this is wrong?

49178-01(40)0: 14B
49178-01(41)0: Big 16G
49178-01(42)0: Big 16G
49178-01(45)0: Evo I Big 16G
49178-01(46)0: Evo II Big 16G
49178-01(47)0: EVO III 16G



Yes, wrongzors.
 

Mdlimy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
111
Location
Gresham, oregon
Started tearing th tranny apart to diagnose the 3rd year grind. Need to look into the cost of synchros and the double synchro modification, bearings seem good so far. Cleaned up the cases in the parts washer.




Oh and I stumbled apon one of these...

 

Mdlimy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
111
Location
Gresham, oregon
Yes, English racing oversized oil pump pully to lower oil pressure at high rpms, i had it from some r&d project at work, i wont be running it right away because it requires adjustable cam gears and its really not needed at this point.

Finally have some time to post an update. Made lots of headway finally, almost ready to put the motor in.

Block bored .040" for NPR 2g pistons
6bolt rods machined for 2g pistons
ARP head studs, main studs and rod studs
Decked
Crankshaft ground
Mains align honed and sized for ACL race bearings
Head resurfaced, new stainless valves, valve guides, BC Springs and retainers
Balanced
Using a felpro headgasket

Machine shop told me they had .0015" on the mains and .001 on the rods. I plastiguaged everything before final assembly and it was dead on those numbers.
Wasn't too happy with the NPR "pre gapped rings" I ended up with all my #1 rings at .015 which i am ok with but the #2 are just a hair larger than i wanted at .024, except cyl 2 which is .027 arggg, and its not the cylinder, its the ring, I wish they would have just been under sized so i could file them! Doubt ill have any issues there.

Browsing craigslist lately for deals and i picked up a good condition 1g head complete with cams for $50 bucks, tore it down and found crower springs and retainers and almost new looking journals/caps/cams, score!

This evening i took a drive for a couple hours and snagged a Spec stage 5 clutch, got the pressure plate, disc and a flywheel for 80 bucks! Disc appears to have about 50-60% life, the pressure plate and flywheel hardly have any glazing, very low miles on this setup. I was told the owner of the TSI it came out of worked at ETS and it held 550awhp. For 80 bucks i cant pass that up, it beats putting the stocker back in, in hopes of saving money.

Next on the list is to press off a couple gears so i can install the new synchros, and assemble the transmission. Hope to have the motor and trans back in the car this weekend. If my oil pressure gauge shows up, ill be able to start it up and do the break in!








 
Last edited:

Mdlimy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
111
Location
Gresham, oregon
Got the car all put together, and started her up, everything sounded good. Oil pressure when was about 15-20 at idle and quickly sky rockets to over 100psi when revved, i quickly remembered that i forgot to port the ofh, DOH!

I took it for a short test drive/initial break in, i drove it hard but only reved to 4k rpm which was at about 100psi oil pressure, i deemed that safe from blowing seals out. Lots of decel, etc, the usual break in drive.

Only problem i had was the transmission pops out of 4th gear, i cant even hold it in. So i parked the car for the night.

Started it up when i got home from work the next day and it ran rough for a few seconds and died. It kept doing this, after a couple hours of digging around i finally swapped the cas for a spare one and VIOLA, it runs! ugh.

Pulled it in the shop and yanked the trans out, came out by my self in less than an hour, not bad for my first time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Tore it down, replaced 4th gear, the ring looked pretty bad, although i dont think this was my issue. I also replaced the 3-4 selector fork with one that looked to have less wear. Double checked everything to make sure it looked and felt right, and assembled it. I will throw it in the car tonight and see how it does.

I do plan on assembling another transmission since i did not shim this one properly, hopefully it will last long enough till i can finish one. But it did shift great, no more grinds in 2nd and 3rd!



 
Last edited:

Mdlimy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
111
Location
Gresham, oregon
Thanks dude, can't even see it anymore!

Well, she is fixed, shifts great! Now I just need to finish refining everything, verify no vac/boost leaks and set base timing and idle, then continue with the break in.

The Evo 8 struts and tein lowering springs feel great! I think I might cut the rear coils to bring it down 1/2", but I'm gonna drive it for a while before I mess with it.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,465
Location
SoCal
You really got a lot of work done in a short amount of time.

How was the transmission build? That's the only thing I've yet to tackle on my own. Also, where did you source parts? I've got a core sitting in the garage ready for a rebuild.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Jacks doesn't do builds anymore, but they still source parts and will sell to you. You can still send in a center diff for the 4 spider or welding. They will do that, according to the website, they are not forgetting their roots and will still support the DSM community with advice and parts.

Hopefully that will last for some time now. If everyone stops supporting the DSM transmission, we are all in trouble.
 

Mdlimy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
111
Location
Gresham, oregon
The transmission rebuild wasn't as bad as i thought. I was a bit nervous at first but once i saw all the parts laid out and understood how they fit together and functioned i felt much more confident. This was my first transmission rebuild. I plan to do another very soon with all the proper shimming and bearing replacements. Jacks Transmissions supplied me with 4 new synchros (1-4), the seals and fluids.

I took lots of pictures as i took it apart, and i tell you what, if i did not do that, i would have been lost assembling it the first time. But after finding out 4th gear had an issue and having to tear it apart a second time, i did not need the photos at all. A bearing splitter/puller kit from harbor freight and a press is a must if you are splitting the clusters.

The 8.5:1 2g pistons are causing some pinging, so i decided i needed to source a fix, and the right way would be tuning ign timing. Link was my primary choice but i wasn't ready to fork out the cash. Then a deal popped up in the fs forum....I bought an AEM series 1 pnp ems from Biglady for $325, couldn't pass up that deal. Im familiar with tuning standalone ems and have tuned several turbo Hondas with the aem series 1 box, so i'm somewhat acquainted with it already.
 

Mdlimy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
111
Location
Gresham, oregon
UPDATE!!

Fixed the fourth gear issue, car shifts well now!

Got the AEM EMS installed and a base tune, still running maf right now.

Picked up some ID1000s, a walbro, an ebay evo3 radiator, cxracing 4" IC core and some other misc stuff, ill just let the pics do the talking.

Heres the cliff notes

Found some janky wiring by the PO
Did a little fix on the starter (lol)
Built a Bolt on FMIC
Did a bit of work on the HRC 20g, getting it ready to go on



IMG_2539.JPG

IMG_2547.JPG

IMG_2548.JPG

IMG_2566.JPG

IMG_2570.JPG

IMG_2580.JPG

IMG_2583.JPG

IMG_2586.JPG

IMG_2587.JPG

IMG_2590.JPG

IMG_2594.JPG

IMG_2600.JPG

IMG_2601.JPG

IMG_2605.JPG

IMG_2606.JPG

IMG_2608.JPG

IMG_2577.JPG
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Recent Classifieds Listings

Top