99.6% is just fine. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Your chip is setup for 43psi base fuel pressure.
Your chip is setup for 43psi base fuel pressure.
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Rich Knock...check my logs PLEASE!
- Thread starter JSchleim18
- Start date
JSchleim18
Well-known member
LOL I'll suffer the .4%
So do you think I should just zero out all my settings on the AFC, turn the pressure to 43 psi, turn the timing back to 5* and start over? Probably right?
So do you think I should just zero out all my settings on the AFC, turn the pressure to 43 psi, turn the timing back to 5* and start over? Probably right?
DarkDevilMMM
Well-known member
keydiver, did you set everybody's chip to 43psi base fuel pressure, or did you set his only per his request? coz I am trying to figure out some other's problem. sorry for hijack.
JSchleim18
Well-known member
Not a problem. Base fuel pressure is normally set to 37 on his chips.
slugsgomoo
Well-known member
I'd switch to the non projected plugs as well. BR7ES might actually help you a bit.
Frankly at that boost level, even if your wideband is reading pretty happy AFR, I think your timing is way aggressive. Unfortunately your only timing control is w/ base setting so you can't do a lot but i'd drop down to 3-4* base and see if you get the same behavior.
Frankly at that boost level, even if your wideband is reading pretty happy AFR, I think your timing is way aggressive. Unfortunately your only timing control is w/ base setting so you can't do a lot but i'd drop down to 3-4* base and see if you get the same behavior.
I always ask if they are running stock base fuel pressure.
Quoting DarkDevilMMM:
keydiver, did you set everybody's chip to 43psi base fuel pressure, or did you set his only per his request? coz I am trying to figure out some other's problem. sorry for hijack.
Quoting DarkDevilMMM:
keydiver, did you set everybody's chip to 43psi base fuel pressure, or did you set his only per his request? coz I am trying to figure out some other's problem. sorry for hijack.
JSchleim18
Well-known member
Quoting slugsgomoo:
I'd switch to the non projected plugs as well. BR7ES might actually help you a bit.
Frankly at that boost level, even if your wideband is reading pretty happy AFR, I think your timing is way aggressive. Unfortunately your only timing control is w/ base setting so you can't do a lot but i'd drop down to 3-4* base and see if you get the same behavior.
Thanks for that info Andrew. I've been looking at the BR7ES plugs and will give those a shot. They seem to hold up better in higher boost settings. I'm still debating whether or not I should just set the base timing to 5* or lower. I just don't have all the tools to do the timing so I'd rather do it once. What's the disadvantage to retarding it more than I should (say I could have gotten away with using 4* but I decided to run 3*)?
Edit: forget the last bit. I'm going to start at 5* and keep checking to see if I'm getting knock. If I get no knock at 5* I'll turn the boost up. If I see knock, I'll lower the timing to 4* and try again. Long process but it'll work.
I'd switch to the non projected plugs as well. BR7ES might actually help you a bit.
Frankly at that boost level, even if your wideband is reading pretty happy AFR, I think your timing is way aggressive. Unfortunately your only timing control is w/ base setting so you can't do a lot but i'd drop down to 3-4* base and see if you get the same behavior.
Thanks for that info Andrew. I've been looking at the BR7ES plugs and will give those a shot. They seem to hold up better in higher boost settings. I'm still debating whether or not I should just set the base timing to 5* or lower. I just don't have all the tools to do the timing so I'd rather do it once. What's the disadvantage to retarding it more than I should (say I could have gotten away with using 4* but I decided to run 3*)?
Edit: forget the last bit. I'm going to start at 5* and keep checking to see if I'm getting knock. If I get no knock at 5* I'll turn the boost up. If I see knock, I'll lower the timing to 4* and try again. Long process but it'll work.
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Adjust the fuel pressure to get the HIGH TRIM stable at 100, and then keep retarding the timing until the knock goes away. You may not need to retard it past 5* if you get the AFR right.
prove_it
Well-known member
Sometimes starting over is the best way to get it done. You can keep tuning and tweaking, but eventually you can get to far from the goal and not realize it, especially if you keep making changes without ever undoing any changes.
