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replacement harness plug connectors?

coyotes

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Nov 15, 2013
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Seattle, WA
So I did some wiring work on the car today, did my fuel pump rewire, and fixed my busted coolant temp sensor wire (to dash). I was inspecting the other wires and my coolant temp sensor wiring (to ecu) is quite crispy. I want to replace it but I don't think I can without replacing the harness plug. Can I get a new plug? where?
 

coyotes

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Nov 15, 2013
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Seattle, WA
I followed the wires back about 8 inches back. Everything else is ok, it is just the two coolant sensors that have crispy wiring. The one to my gauge snapped in half a few weeks ago, I cut the tape back 6 inches to where it was soft and soldered in new wire from there and used a new female spade connector. I couldn't do the sensor to the ECU though, it is crispy right up to the harness plug. Car runs, but it's really just a matter of time till the wires go bad and I would rather take care of it right now.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Jan 1, 2012
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SoCal
I had the same issue. People let oil leaks go unchecked for years, and the oil destroys the sheathing on the wires. I have a spare piece of engine harness I cannibalize for connectors and such. I just found a t-style connector, cut it off and soldered it in place of the old one.

B30-2.jpg
 

coyotes

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Nov 15, 2013
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yes that's the one I need. does it have a serial number or any other way to identify it? I'd rather buy new. I guess I should go search around.
 

LIV4PSI

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Nov 24, 2011
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O-H-I-O
There is a 1g in my local yard, I could grab that plug in if you wanted. I'm going back for the NA water pipe and front hubs
 

strokin4dr

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Aug 30, 2005
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Savannah, GA
I used the one from the boost solenoid to repair mine. It was in great shape, not hard and brittle like the ones near the engine always are. It's only $5 for a new pigtail on the site linked above.
 

bradrs

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Feb 1, 2014
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Alta Loma, CA
Quoting GSTwithPSI:

ECT plug pic



Thanks for the good pic of that plug. That one is one I am still trying to ID so I can get the right replacement, and not just something that is "close" or "kinda" fits.

I am slowly trying to track down all these harness connectors, and get them available on the site posted above. But it a hobby, so it does take a little time(and help with pictures since I have a 2G DSM only). There are a few I have that aren't on the site yet, like ECU connectors/terminals. But I am still looking for that ECT plug. I have the 2G ECT plug.

JNZ has found a plug that isn't the original one, but works well. So they are definitely worth contacting.
 
Last edited:

bradrs

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Feb 1, 2014
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128
Location
Alta Loma, CA
Quoting turbohf:
i just used 2 female spade connectors. soldier and shrink wrapped of course.



I do not recommend shrink wrapping soldiers. They generally get pretty angry about that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Soldering wire to the connector and shrink wrapping isn't necessarily a good idea either. If anything I'd just crimp the terminals very tightly. When you solder and heatshrink, the wire loses a lot of flexibility.
 

92_talon_awd

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Feb 11, 2014
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Knoxville, TN
^I strongly disagree. Crimping is nice and quick but soldering is best for maximum electrical conductivity. Heat shrinking is also recommended because it prevents oil/water/dirt from getting into the connection. If nothing else, use the butt connectors that have heat shrink built into them but solder whenever possible.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
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Michigan
What Brad said about soldering applies to the connection to the metal terminal. It is best to retain flexibility of the wires there for durability. Soldering a repair splice in-line is not the same thing, and generally ok as long as it is not in an area with a lot of movement. Soldering actually makes wiring more brittle since it wicks up the wires.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
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Michigan
Quote:
B30-2.jpg




Brad, I think that connector is made by AMP. Should be pretty standard, and is used for the trunk speakers on the VR4 also I believe.
 
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