recommend me an awesome slimfan...

[WaRrIoRs16]

Although it was difficult to check the difference as quickly as I would like to, I have also noticed a difference in what pocket logger showed for coolant temps vs ECMLink. I can't remember which was higher/lower, but I did see a difference. Also, it is normal for pocket logger to not read immediately after link was used. I asked about that on the link forum clicky

 

[dmj]

Mark how did you mount it? I noticed you did not use the stock mounting holes.

 

[mitsuturbo]

I believe it was well known (long ago) that pocketlogger coolant temps were inaccurate. Maybe i'm thinking of MMCD.
Some years ago, i remember a LOT of threads and discussion... just like this: click

 

[turbowop]

Mounted with zip-ties through the radiator, like the old one. I may come up with some custom mounts later, but this works and looks clean.

I know according to the ECMlink forums with ECMlink v2 you had to shut off the car and wait for the MPI relay to shut off before you could turn the ignition switch back to acc to plug in Pocketlogger and get readings. Maybe with v3 it doesn't work at all? I tried all that and got nothing.

 

[alansupra94]

With AEM EMS, last weekend, I got fed up with the crappy stock wiring for the fan and just removed it completely. I ended up using a low side relay trigger on the AEM (I think it was for the FPR solenoid) and wired the fans to two relays I got at Advanced Auto for about $5 after discounts and what not. I have one slim fan pulling on the passenger side (dunno who makes it but doesn't look like it pulls a whole ton) and another slim fan pushing on the driver side (this one is a bit bigger and pushes a bit more). It is a 1G fluidyne radiator with some kind of shroud that I ended up cutting down the middle since the driver side didn't have any hole....just sheetmetal covering it.

Anyway, after wiring it up using the proper wiring and fusing both fans to a 40A fuse, I set AEM to let both fans come on 165F. So far, the car has been behaving very well, even in stop and go traffic at 100F. I also went with a 30/70 coolant mix with water wetter and a 180F thermostat.

Now I just need to figure out why the belts are squealing on start up sometimes.

 

[SouthCaliVR4]

Quoting turbowop:
Mounted with zip-ties through the radiator, like the old one. I may come up with some custom mounts later, but this works and looks clean.

I know according to the ECMlink forums with ECMlink v2 you had to shut off the car and wait for the MPI relay to shut off before you could turn the ignition switch back to acc to plug in Pocketlogger and get readings. Maybe with v3 it doesn't work at all? I tried all that and got nothing.



Not zip-ties!! They're "space age high tech nylon retention devices" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Brianawd]

Quote:
Not zip-ties!! They're "space age high tech nylon retention devices



You mean CNC machined mounting brackets /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[turbowop]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
I believe it was well known (long ago) that pocketlogger coolant temps were inaccurate. Maybe i'm thinking of MMCD.
Some years ago, i remember a LOT of threads and discussion... just like this: click



It's confirmed. Pocketlogger reads around 10 degrees cooler than ECMlink/DSMlink. I just finished installing DSMlink 2.5 in 503 and my coolant temps are magically 10 degrees higher than they were when logging with Pocketlogger just two days ago. No other changes made.

 

[citymunky]

Being this back from the dead.

BluFalcon, Turbowop how did you guys wire up your FAL fan. My GVR4 was wired by the PO to a PWD/ECO switch to turn the fan (yes only 1 fan) at will. That might be great for a drag car, but no a street car i'm building.
I know wop said he looping out the resistor, but I'm not 100% sure no what that means.

 

[EMX5636]

City- If you have the stock 4 wire plug going to the fan, 2 wires go to a ceramic resistor to run the fan on a lower speed. Most aftermarket fans don't like less than 12V so you just solder the two wires together that used to go to the resistor on the stock fan.

 

[citymunky]

^thanks

 

[turbowop]

I wired mine up like stock, but got rid of the resistor and also spliced in a wire from one of ECMlink's output triggers. I have it setup so that anytime I'm below 8mph or above 100rpm (slow speeds, car running), the output pulls the fan relay to ground and runs the fan. I did this because I installed a 180F thermostat and the factory fan switch doesn't come on at a low enough temp to make effective use of the lower temp thermostat in stop/go traffic on hot days. I'd rather there was a temperature parameter on the ECMlink output, but until then, this works fine.

 

[EMX5636]

Good idea Mark. Luckily I don't really get stuck in that much stop/go.

 

[turbowop]

I don't either, but it's useful for the staging lanes at the track as you creep up waiting for others to make their passes. It's also good while on the dyno. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Mark, can you give some feedback on how this setup has worked out for you?

Now that it's hot as hell outside, 1837 doesn't seem to like stop and go traffic very much. I currently have the factory puller as well as a no-name 12" slim fan (no shroud) pulling right next to it. In traffic, I'm seeing my temps creep up to nearly 220* on really hot days.

The problem is I'm just not moving enough air through/out of my engine bay at low and idle speeds. As soon as the car starts moving, the temps drop. Also, if I pop the hood open while the car is idling, the fans will pull the temp back down to around 200* no problem. However, If I leave the hood closed and let the car idle for 20-30 min when it's 95*+ outside the car will overheat if left to itself. Both fans are wired to come on together at 206; they run at high speed only with the low speed resistor bypassed. Eventually I will have ECMlink controlling 1 or both.

I have a 14" SPAL slim fan (no shroud) I'm going to replace my no-name 12" puller with. I'd like to replace the stock puller with something that moves significantly more air as well. Basically, I'm looking for some feedback on how your FAL is performing when it's hot as hell out. Thanks.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Consider the fans from skip white on Ebay.

Ebay store for White Performance

Jerry aka Lancerman turned me onto these recently. He uses them.
I will be purchasing a few, in varying sizes, to see how they perform.
I am replacing the stock turbo C53a fan (puller with 2/3" shrouding) and adding a pusher, maybe puller where the AC fan should be.
Experimenting with 10, 12, 14" varieties.
Considering their twin 11" setup, but need some serious current from the alternator for that to happen, thus my alternator thread.
Stock Galant and Colt/Mirage radiators of the full length variety, are 14 3/4 tall x 26 5/16 long, that is the core alone, for reference when mounting things to it.
Those 11" fans in tandem (side by side) list the following dimensions: 24" X 16" X 4.5" (deep). These fans would require cutting off either the top of bottom portion to accomodate the core height. Likely best to trim the bottom up, until it works just right. They can still be made to work this way, and mount tightly in place. This goes against the pull and push setup that our cars share, with AC installed.
Might be too much for larger turbos pushing their outlets in the area of the front engine mount area, but it could still be tighter fitting that stock components; to be confirmed when I measure the stock fan I have out now. Stock Galant rad fans are likely just as deep with their shroud.

I am not going the SPAL FAL, or similarly expensive fan route. If Skip's stuff lives up to it's name and the ball bearings do the trick,
it is just a matter of fitment. You can't beat the pricing ... period; ever. I can afford to import these, versus purchasing anything local. Amazons selection sucks for Canada, even for vendors that have US holdings and oodles of products available on ".com", versus ".ca".
I have a Canadian vendor that I use a whole bunch, but the pricing is too high to justify what I need to try and accomplish in one shot, no returns on product, sell what I need after it is done if need be.

I highly suggest a 2/3" shroud that mates up pretty tight to the rad core/fins when using a puller in the stock location - pusher AC fan in the stock condenser location. Also, consider making templates for material to wedge in between the bumper and the condenser/rad, to accomplish as much air as possible across the cores, with nothing left to bypass when air is pushing or being pulled in.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

My only thing is I'd like to get some feedback about something known to work, which is why I was bothering Mark.

If you do end up testing out one of those Ebay fans you linked to, please let me know. The 15" model they list does sound promising, but it looks strikingly similar to the one I already have, which doesn't even move as much air as the stock puller. 2250 CFM is a lot of air; I'm a bit skeptical of that claim. Their ad also says many times the fan has a low amp draw, but they never actually list the amperage. They've sold a metric sh*t ton of them though, so maybe they are legit? Hopefully you buy one and let me know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Also, who the hell is Skip White?

 

[FlyingEagle]

"with my china amp gauge they are around 9 amps free spin. maybe 10-11 on the radiator."

This is the response to my question about amperage for the 15" unit, when I asked Jerry his thoughts. They should jive with factory wiring ...

200 watt motor, per the advertisement.

Jerry's van thread, showing a Civic super thick rad with the 15" fan mounted, and funky homebrew shroud.
Van build thread on 4g61t.org

 

[turbowop]

Works great. I haven't driven the car much this summer, but I had it out a couple weeks ago. I took it to BaleBreaker brewery which is about 20mins away through town. Lots of stoplights and traffic. It was 100F out that day and while I wasn't using my laptop at the time, the needle on the dash gauge never even hit halfway.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Just an update:

I swapped in a 14" SPAL slim puller fan (VA08-AP51/C-23A 12v) and the car no longer has trouble pulling the temp down at idle. The SPAL fan moves a TON of air compared to the stock puller. Even with no shroud, the car is cooling better than it ever has. I drove the car back and forth to work today in stop and go traffic, and never saw anything over 210*. It was only 82* out today, so I'm hoping to get some hotter weather to see how it reacts. Overall, the larger fan seems to be working much better than factory puller did, and certainly better than the Mishimoto shrouded dual fan setup I had previous.